I'iiii'iiriiiMliilB 



An Endeavorer's Working 
Journey Around the World 



rsz 



s 



"W 





In^oductioE by Robert J. B 




Class Q^i'i'A^ 

Copyright N° 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
in 2011 witii funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.arcliive.org/details/endeavorersworkiOOande 




JOHN F. ANDERSON. 



An Endeavorer's 
Working Journey 
Around the World 



BY JOHN F. ANDERSON 

INTRODUCTION BY 
ROBERT J. BURDETTE 






CHRISTIAN PUBLISHING COMPANY 
ST. LOUIS. 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

jUN 19 '%3 

'} Copynght Entry 

hA-^A/^ 1 ft _ ; cf 3 

CLASS ii- XXc. No. 

COPY a. ' 



Copyright, 1903, by 
Christian Publishing Company 



Q^^ 







fj^ 



PREFACE 



THE class popularly called '^Globe Trotters," 
to which I have neither right nor incli- 
nation to belong, is a large one, and includes in 
its membership not only those who desire to 
see the world for an educational and honest 
purpose, but a great number of seekers after 
notoriety who adopt various methods of making 
their way, and whose only purpose is the win- 
ning of a wager or the satisfactory completion 
of a "freakish" undertaking. In spending five 
years in an absolute working journey around 
the world, my sole desire was to see that side 
of the world which the average tourist does not 
come in contact with, and to study the "com- 
mon" people of each country from the level of 
sympathy which I could find only by associa- 
ting and living with them and laboring for them 
whenever opportunity was offered. If it had 
been necessary to beg my way around the 
globe, or ride a spotted mule with a sign on his 
lazy sides, or employ a bicycle with the name 
of the maker emblazoned on its frames, or win 
a wife while making the journey, or do any 
other ridiculous thing in line with the innu- 
merable plans that have been adopted, I never 



4 Preface 

would have seen a foot of ground outside of my 
own land. 

I can say truthfully, that never on my entire 
travels did I display the sign of a kodak maker, 
the colored posters which tell the merits of a 
washing powder, or carry a banner emphasiz- 
ing the qualities of a five-cent cigar. There 
was not a hint of advertising or commercialism 
in connection with my trip, and the only in- 
come I had was in the use of two hands and 
two strong arms in the prosecution of any work 
I could find to do. I was not a barber when I 
decided to undertake the journey, and if it had 
not been for the journey I never v/ould have 
been. I learned that trade simply because I 
believed that it would afford me more opportu- 
nities, in more countries, to earn the money 
that even a tourist of humble tastes like myself 
would need. How well my trade served the 
purpose designed for it may be known from the 
fact that, after treading the soil of every state 
in my own country, I left New York with 
$8.00 in my pocket, belted the sphere with my 
footprints and arrived at San Francisco with 
about $65.00, although it was not all earned by 
the use of a razor and shears. There were 
many times when the tonsorial trade was use- 
less, so far as buying bread for my hungry stom- 
ach or furnishing a place for my weary head 
was concerned. In such straits I was cook on 



Preface 5 

an ocean transport, bridge builder in Egypt, 
porter in a Japanese hotel and "Jack of all 
trades" in many ways and in various climes. 
It was truly a "working" journey, and the les- 
son of doing the first thing that my hand found 
to do, where a dollar could be honestly earned, 
was the only safe method of procedure for one 
in my position, when a constant employment 
of the wits was necessary in order to prevent 
exposure and starvation. 

The average tourist has told us much of the 
palaces of royalty and the salons of art centers. 
What I wanted to know was what the lower 
caste of India ate for breakfast, the sort of car- 
pets the peasantry of France had on the front 
room floor, how hard a German laborer had to 
work to provide for his large family, whether 
the sentiment of the Bedouin was a fable, and 
the possible profits of the farmer in the Holy 
L/and. Books had not told me these things. 
Lecturers had given information about the 
Leaning Tower of Pisa, but had not told what 
would be necessary for an American to do in 
order to shift for himself in the Philippines. I 
went to the old countries far more anxious to 
see the wage earners of Italy and Switzerland 
and China than to behold a string of princes or 
marvel at the architecture of European capitals. 

It was, therefore, my constant purpose, and 
faithfully carried out, to get as close to the 



6 Preface 

common people and to the humbler things as I 
possibly could. That I succeeded I believe the 
following pages, which are submitted with all 
the trepidation an unknown writer can know, 
will conclusively show. The book is not an 
attempt at rhetoric, or charming description. 
It would be counted a failure in either class. 
It is the modest chronicling of the life of a 
Western boy, who received an inspiration to see 
the world at the age of nine, nursed the deter- 
mination until an age when the journey could 
be undertaken and then carried it out as suc- 
cessfully as American grit could make possible. 
The book gives an insight into the lives of the 
people of many countries, tells how a young 
man may find something to eat and a place to 
sleep under the most unfavorable circumstances, 
and describes in a feeble v/ay how one Hndeav- 
orer saw the bright and dark sides of the world 
and came through it all with a more strongly 
fixed opinion that the Christian life is the 
source of all there is of good in the world, 
and that those who enjoy its blessing and 
results are the ones who alone know the true 
happiness. 



CONTENTS 



BOOK I. 

Preface ... . . . . . 3 

Introductory . . . . . . . 10 

I. Seeing the Beauties of Cali- 
fornia . . . . . 17 

II. A Traveling Companion . . 43 

III. The Geysers . . . . 66 

IV. Into the Great Northwest . 76 

V. From Seattle Across the Con- 
tinent . . ... 92 

VI. The Yellowstone National 

Park 102 

VII. Over the Continental Divide . 109 

VIII. Fort Custer . . . . 119 

IX. Breaking a Team of Wild 

Horses . . . . . 123 

X. The Selfishness of the East- 

ern Farmers .... 129 

XI. Through the East on a Bicy- 
cle 133 

XII. Experiences in New England . 142 

XIII. Washington and the Sunny 

South 153 

XIV. The Mammoth Cave — To the 

Old Home . . . .160 

XV. The Sunny South Again . . 164 



8 Contents 

BOOK II. 

I. Bound for the Old World . 169 

II. In the British Isles . . . 179 

III. A Typical Irish Home . . 184 

IV. Thinning Turnips in Scotland . 189 

V. At the Home of Sir Walter 

Scott ..... 194 
VI. A Smile from Prince Edward 

OF Wales . . . .198 

VII. At Work as a Barber in Lon- 
don 201 

VIII. The Great Endeavor Conven- 
tion 207 

IX. On the Continent . . . 210 

X. On the Banks of the Rhine . 215 

XL Paris, the Gay and the 

Wicked 220 

XII. In the Alpine Country . . 224 

XIII. Nice and Monte Carlo . . 227 

XIV. In Rural Italy . . . .230 

XV. In Rome With a Slim Purse . 233 

XVI. As a Hotel Runner in Cor- 
fu 238 

XVII. From Athens to Egypt . . 241 

XVIII. As a Machinist in Alexan- 
dria 247 

IX. Cairo and Palestine . . . 252 





Contents 


9 


XX. 


Jerusalem and the Holy 






Land .... 


. 256 


YXL 


In the Country of the Bed- 






ouins .... 


. 261 


XXII. 


Jerusalem to Damascus on 






Foot .... 


. 264 


XXIII. 


Lost in the Holy Land 


. 266 


XXIV. 


A Barber's Work in Naza- 






reth .... 


. 270 


XXV. 


The "Holy Fire" Miracle 


. 275 


XXVI. 


A Working Passage to Bom- 






bay ..... 


. 278 


XXVII. 
XXVIII. 


A Journey Across India 
The Glories of Mount Ev- 


. 283 




erest .... 


. 286 


XXIX. 


Selling Typewriters Above 






THE Clouds 


. 290 


XXX. 


China and the Philippines 


. 294 


XXXI. 


Return Trip to China — Ex- 






periences IN Japan 


. 298 


XXXII. 


Japan's Inland Sea 


. 302 


XXXIII. 


The Financial Skies Bright- 






er 


. 3C3 


XXXIV. 


Homeward Bound . 


. 309 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



John F. Anderson .... Frontispiece 

Facing page 
The tvorking journey begins with picking oranges at 

his home in Pomona, Cal. . . . . .22 

"Old Buzz" the horse driven from Mexico to Canada 26 
Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley . . . .50 

As grocer clerks, while studying the Klondike boom at 

Seattle . 92 

An alkali desert in Oregon . . . . .94 

The glories of camp life in the Yellowstone . . 106 

A camp in the Yellowstone Valley .... 114 
The first water in forty miles, in Idaho . . . 124 

Newspaper Square, New York City .... 134 
A penny shave in London ..... 202 

Westminster Bridge and the Houses of Parliament . 208 
Sweeping his way throtigh the Paris Exposition . . 220 

A few pages from the book of post-marks . . . 234 

At work as a -machinist in Alexandria . , . 248 

"Bachelor's Hall," the author's abode for six weeks, 

Alexandria, Egypt ...... 250 

At the Pyramids ....... 252 

A native barber at work in the streets of Jerusalem . 256 
The return to Jerusalem after a 500-mile tratnp through 

the Holy Land . . . . . .262 

The Garden of Gethsemane ..... 276 

Where the author worked in Bombay . . . 280 

A distant view of Mount Everest— Natives near the 

border of Tibet— The author and his cooley in the 

Himalaya ....... 288 

Darjeeling, India, where the author sold typewriters 

above the clouds ...... 292 

Police Buttons ....... 296 

A jinricksha man in Japan ..... 304 

The U. S. Transport " Warren" on ivhich the author 

returned to Sayi Francisco as cook , . . 310 



INTRODUCTORY 



THE Teacher, talking one day with His dis- 
ciples, men of such intellectual power, 
clearness of perception, and strength of faith 
that they turned the world upside down — it 
being at that time downside up — and so 
restored it to its right position, said: "Having 
eyes, see ye not? And having ears, hear ye 
not?" Even these pupils, living day and night 
under the instruction of Incarnate Truth and 
all wisdom, had to be taught how to see and 
hear. The blind man who sat by the wayside 
and begged was not the only man who needed 
to have his eyes opened. It is a great part of 
one's education — learning to see and to hear. 
Millions of men saw apples fall from the laden 
boughs, and then went and picked up the apple 
and ate it. The pig in the orchard did the 
same thing, with the additional excellence in 
favor of the pig — it could the more quickly hear 
and more accurately locate the fallen apple than 
could the human animal who merely wanted 
something to eat. But when a man who had 
learned to see, noted the fall of the apple, he 

read, in the handwriting of the Infinite, a law 

11 



12 Introductory 

that governed the Universe. Millions of lads 
had scalded their fingers playing with steam, 
even as the equally inquisitive dog had scalded 
his nose, — only the boy scalded his fingers 
many times — the more intelligent dog scalded 
his nose but once. But by and by there came 
the lad who could feel, in the quivering of the 
teaspoon held at the nose of the tea-kettle, the 
throbbings of the mighty Corliss engine. 

People will say when this volume is pre- 
sented to them, "What! Another book of 
travel?" They will read a few pages. If they 
find it is "guide-booky," they will lay it down 
and never glance at it again. Because the 
guide-book lies on the shelf beside the dic- 
tionary, about as useful, in its line, but less 
interesting. A dozen lines in the letter, a page 
in the book, betiays the guide-book origin, and 
people will have none of it. But the same peo- 
ple read with eagerness the daily paper, which 
tells only, it may be, of affairs in their own lit- 
tle town. Because the reporter tells of things 
which are not in the book. Men love the 
Tales of a Traveler who has traveled with his 
eyes open. The highways of travel are not 
tiresome. They are more interesting than 
ever. There are more people to meet and more 
things to see in them. The world has not 
grown stale. Mountain and sky and lake have 
lost none of their beauty, and cities have lost 



Introductory 13 

none of tlieir power to thrill and interest during 
the past thousand years. Nor have the old 
narratives grown dull. But we have them in 
other books, and we do not care for them at 
second-hand. But for new views of old things, 
for fresh impressions, for living experiences, 
there are always eager readers. Mr. Anderson, 
in the following pages, has his own story to 
tell. He was and is an old-fashioned traveler, 
wh(3 brings a touch of pedestrian loitering into 
the high pressure gallop and gulp of these hur- 
rying days. He travels as Goldsmith did. 
Whatsoever his eyes devoured, city or lake or 
mountain, ivied castle or Bedouin tent, his 
mind took time to digest. You brought home 
from your tour abroad more hotel labels on 
your luggage; he, perhaps, more and more 
varied memoranda on his memory. Some 
things, perhaps, he saw which you missed, 
journeying in the same places. He followed 
the advice which the poets gave long ago — 

"Go far, too far you cannot, still the farther. 
The more experience finds you: And go sparing; 
One meal a week will serve you, and one suit 
Through all your travels; for you'll find it certain 
The poorer and the baser you appear, 
The more you look through still." 

More than once I met him on his journeys in 
the Orient. A good type of the young Ameri- 
can. Independent, with never the slightest 
trace of swagger; wearing his poverty with 



14 Introductory 

manly dignity, rich in his unconsciousness of 
it; at ease with guests in a hotel parlor; equally 
at ease with the same gentlemanly demeanor 
when these acquaintances rolled or galloped 
past him as he trudged alone on carriage road 
or bridle trail. Proffers of financial assistance 
he declined by showing his hands. These, and 
his brains, won for him day by day, bread for 
his eating, money for his journey, a tent or 
roof to cover his head at night. And if these 
failed, he slept as did the Patriarch, pillowed 
on the stone and sheltered by the skies. Be- 
cause that everywhere he carried his Ameri- 
canism, modestly, loyally, independently, I am 
more than glad to say this little foreword for 
his book and to commend it to my friends. 
Robert J. Burdette. 

"SUNNYCREST," Aug. 12, 1902. 



BOOK I 



CHAPTER I 

Seeing the Beauties oe Calieornia" 

WHEN I was nine years old I heard a lec- 
ture by a man who had traveled around 
the world. His descriptions of sights with 
which the great majority of people are unfamil- 
iar thrilled me and awoke an intense desire to 
journey to those distant countries and see for 
myself the wonders described by him so elo- 
quently. During his stay in the little town of 
Burlington Junction, Mo., this lecturer was 
entertained at my father's home, and I there- 
fore had a double opportunity to absorb the 
things that interested me more than any I had 
heard of before. 

In 1882 my father moved from the town 
where I was born and where I first knew 
the desire to see the world, and located in 
Nebraska. There he engaged in the live stock 
business, and there it was that I first knew the 
wild, unrestrained life of the plains. My asso- 
ciations with the type commonly known as the 
cowboy helped to round out my early experi- 
ence and to prepare me for the uncertainties of 
the broader life which I was still determined to 
know. As I attended to the needs of my fath- 
er's herds, I was constantly laying plans for the 

2 17 



1 8 An Endeavorer's Working 

five-year journey I had resolved to make. That 
resohition never flagged. In fact, it grew more 
fixed as the years went by. The deep ruts in 
the roads, telling of travel toward a section 
of our country whose development was still 
young, drew my thoughts toward the great 
West, and I knew that the limitless forests and 
plains of our wonderful country would be the 
starting-point for my undertaking. 

But there was still an important problem to 
solve. The ambition and determination were 
mine, but I had not the means with which to 
carry out such a determination as I had formed. 
I can say truthfully that I did not want such 
means, for the purpose from the very incep- 
tion of my plan was to make it a working trip 
around the world, and to be thus enabled to see 
the real conditions of every country rather than 
the surface show which the opulent tourist is 
obliged to limit himself to. I wanted to go 
deeper than this. I desired to know the com- 
mon people, the working people, and to that 
end I must be one of them. 

So I decided to learn the trade that would 
best serve this purpose, and it was my convic- 
tion that the best trade would be that of the 
barber. I felt satisfied that it was as creditable 
a task to cut hair as to cut hay, and that to 
"shave" my way around the globe would be 



Journey Around the World 19 

practical, even tliough it might sound like 
comedy. 

Having accomplished this part of the task 
before me, I made preparations for the greater 
journey by traveling three times to California, 
each time visiting different places of interest 
and giving myself a preparation that would 
prevent the embarrassment M^hich most tourists 
have to undergo in foreign countries when they 
are interrogated by the natives concerning the 
marvels of their own land. It is not uncom- 
mon to find men climbing the Alps who have 
never seen the Rocky Mountains, or explorers 
digging into the mysteries of Egypt who do 
not know what the Natural Bridge of Virginia 
looks like. I was determined to have no such 
lack of home information when I went abroad. 
I knew that my country was the best and the 
most wonderful, and was resolved to know it 
well before I entered another. 

For two months, following the practical line 
which I was desirous of carrying out through 
the entire course of my travels, I worked in a 
logging camp in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, 
thus gaining a personal knowledge of lumber- 
ing. After I had quit work I rode down one of 
the immense "flumes," which is seventy miles 
long, a trip that for excitement and speed will 
outrank the "shoot the chutes" or any other 



20 An Endeavorer's Working 

dangerous pleasure devised for revenue pur- 
poses. 

In the San Joaquin valley I visited one of the 
immense grain ranches, and turned my visit 
into something more vigorous by turning up 
the ground with the aid of ten mules and a 
"gang" plow. This is a large valley, and 
everything is done on a correspondingly large 
scale. I also worked on a harvester, a huge 
machine that is drawn by twenty-six horses or 
more, and which cuts, thrashes, cleans and 
sacks the grain and then tumbles it to the 
ground, where it remains sometimes for two 
months before it is gathered into the barns. I 
also studied the various methods of irrigation, 
and saw the huge artesian wells of Tulare 
County, from which never-ceasing streams of 
water are sent out. 

During these early stages of my journey, I 
found that there was little satisfaction in rail- 
way travel. Although a great many places of 
interest were visited in this way, it was evident 
that nature, in its real beauty, and railroads did 
not nurse each other. The most attractive 
spots were away from the tracks and the poles 
that stood like sentinels over them. The 
noises of the forests and the sweep of the plains 
were not near so charming when associated 
with the screech of steam whistles and the fly- 
ing dust in the wake of a fast-moving train. 



Journey Around the World 21 

This conviction led to a determination to em- 
ploy modern methods of transportation as little 
as possible, and to circle the earth by the use 
of a motive power that would give me greater 
freedom and be always at my command. 

In October, 1894, I became a Christian at 
Vacaville, Cal., and immediately fell into the 
ranks of Christian Endeavorers. This experi- 
ence, always uplifting, inspired me witli new 
motives. I saw the beauties of nature with 
different eyes. I appreciated the handiwork of 
the Almighty more deeply than ever before, 
and had an increased desire to see and to 
understand more of it. 

After leaving San Francisco and the Golden 
Gate, I traveled south through the coast coun- 
ties, visiting the popular resorts, the old 
Spanish missions and other places of historic 
interest. At Piru City, Ventura County, I 
worked for D. C. Cook on his 13,000-acre 
ranch, nestled in the beautiful Saata-Clara- Val- 
ley, the home of the heroine of the Spanish 
romance, ^'Ramona." I then pushed on far- 
ther south, and spent a year looking over 
Southern California, spending about six months 
in Pomona in the fall and winter of 1896. In 
this ideal little city, which I am pleased to call 
home, I was engaged in the business of barber- 
ing as my own employer, and remained there 
until the opening of the orange season, when I 



22 An Endeavorer's Working 

obtained practical experience in this industry 
by grading, packing and shipping oranges. 
But in a short time it was necessary to break 
the fellowship of some of the best people I had 
ever met. Finally, with my plans definitely 
outlined for a five-year journey around the 
world, I purchased an unbroken mountain 
horse on the 6th day of May, 1897, and began 
the trip that had claimed my thoughts from 
boyhood. I bought a buggy and camp outfit, 
and started for the Mexican line from Pomona. 
There was much encouragement from my 
friends to spur me on, and in this connection I 
would refer affectionately to my former pastor. 
Prof. F. M. Dowling, of the Christian Church. 

I left Pomona May 13, driving through 
Orange and Riverside counties, and crossing 
the picturesque Magnolia Avenue south of the 
city of Riverside. This is a wonderfully beau- 
tiful thoroughfare, with eucalyptus and pepper 
trees on either side, and a row of magnolia 
trees in the center, with thousands of blossoms 
burdening the summer air with a fragrance 
that can be none other than balm to the heart 
of a weary traveler. I camped that night on 
the shore of Lake Elsinore, in Riverside 
County, and made my bed upon the ground 
for the first time that season. 

The next morning I started early and, driv- 
ing around the lake, over the small red hills 



Journey Around the World 23 

and through the rich green valleys until even- 
ing, I reached Fallbrook, the end of my 
second day's journey. At Fallbrook I spent 
three days at an apiary, delving into the secrets 
of California bee culture. I visited Rattlesnake 
Hill, which, as its name signifies, is fairly alive 
with the venomous vipers. This country truly 
seemed like the "land of milk and honey," for 
there were dairies in every valley and apiaries 
on every hill. I was entertained by a young 
man from Pomona named Vernon Campbell, 
who as a bachelor had developed excellent 
powers as a cook and whom I helped to dispose 
of a "baking" of toothsome biscuits and a lib- 
eral quantity of the results of the labors of 
those busy bees I had seen that day. Sunday 
morning, May 16, we attended church and 
young people's meeting in Fallbrook, and the 
next day, in the bright early morning, I gath- 
ered my camping equipment and traveled to- 
ward the famous old San I^uis Rey mission. 

This mission, unlike most of the others, 
which are made of adobe, sundried bricks, is 
built of well-burned red brick about two, by 
eight, by twelve inches. The mission has the 
form of a quadrangle, with arches and buildings 
on all sides, while in the center is an open 
court. The structure and arches are to a great 
extent in ruins, but enough remains to give a 
general idea of the magnitude and impressive- 



24 An Endeavorer's Working 

ness of this ancient landmark, which has in- 
spired awe and reverence in the heart of many 
a half-clothed red man. 

There was a group of ranch houses a short 
distance away. They are occupied by a com- 
pany of priests who had purchased the grounds 
for the purpose of remodeling the buildings and 
transforming them into places of worship for 
the Indians. 

A Spanish gentleman who spoke English 
well was there, and after an old Indian squaw 
had passed by he gave me her history, which 
he had heard from his grandfather. Her age 
was estimated at 115 years, and it was said that 
she had helped in the work of building the 
mission which I had just left. Her wrinkled 
face and tottering form made it easy to believe 
that she was as old as the pile of masonry 
whose very age made it interesting. She hob- 
bled along on her bare feet and picked her 
way by means of a stick, for she was blind. As 
she arose after getting down from the steps, she 
placed a buckskin band across her forehead. 
This was attached to a bundle which hung on 
her back. In it she carried provisions that she 
had begged from the priests. She was certain- 
ly one of the last living reminders of a primitive 
day when that section of the country knew no 
civilization save that brought by the priests 
who entered the wilds for the purpose of carry- 



Journey Around the World 25 

ing a religion to which they had devoted their 
lives. 

A short distance away is Oceanside, from 
whose streets a fine view of the Pacific Ocean 
can be had. My host that night was J. M. 
Jolly, at whose home I spent hours that were 
happily in accord with the pleasant sound of 
his name. 

The next morning I drove from the city and 
took the beach road toward San Diego. This 
thoroughfare is a pavement made by the waves 
of the sea. With the fresh, morning breeze 
blowing in one's face, a good horse maintain- 
ing a brisk trot, the roaring billows on one 
side and a wall of solid rock on the other, the 
free and light-hearted traveler could not help 
feeling that the railroad tourist missed the 
most enjoyable features of sight-seeing. This 
soon came to an end, however, for the beach 
road leads to sandy hills, crowned sometimes 
by eucalyptus trees or an occasional field of 
grain. The New England Dairy Ranch is 
beyond a row of grassy hills, and that was my 
lodging place for the night. Dampness and a 
heavy fog followed the supper hour, but a 
waterproof canvas is true to its name, and one 
can sleep upon the wet ground in perfect com- 
fort when snugly rolled in one. That was a 
sound night's sleep, but I made the discovery 
in the morning that the enlarged microbes of 



26 An Endeavorer's Working 

San Diego county, commonly called fleas, have 
no mercy for the legs of a tender young man 
who is so thoughtless as to stalk abroad with a 
skin less tough than that of a pachyderm. 

An early breakfast in a California fog tastes 
as good as a late one in the sunshine, and with 
a good start the day was not old when San 
Diego was reached. This town throws its arms 
around a bay that bears the same name. Here 
the supplies of the "grub box" were replen- 
ished, after which I drove around the bay and 
left the city through a very luxuriant valley 
and fruit belt. Orange and lemon orchards 
border the road for a distance of eight or ten 
miles in the direction of the Mexican line. 

Before night I reached the United States 
custom house, which is only a few hundred 
yards from the line. The Mexican custom 
house is about the same distance on the other 
side, and situated in the village of Ti Juana. 
Experience in a Mexican custom house teaches 
one the true value of his property, when meas- 
ured by the rules that others have set up. If I 
had desired to remain in that country the duty 
on my modest possessions would have been $30 
in Mexican money, or $15 in the coin of my 
native land. This was my first realization of 
the fact that a man with property in the United 
States must pay liberally if he wants to take it 
out of the country with him. This unexpected 



Journey Around the World 27 

tariff destroyed my intention of remaining 
across the line for a few days, and it was a de- 
cision in the interest of economy when I deter- 
mined to begin my tour across the continent by 
starting from the Mexican line in a northerly 
direction. So, that night I camped on the line 
that separates the two republics, staking the 
faithful "Buzz," my horse, as nearly as I could 
judge, directly on the line by driving the lariat 
pin through the heavy ink mark on the map, 
so that he could choose his picking from either 
country as his taste might prompt him. For 
the good old horse let it be said that he was 
patriotic enough to show the greater apprecia- 
tion for the grazing found on the American 
side. 

While I cooked my supper that night the na- 
tives stood around my camp fire, commenting 
quite freely upon my bill of fare and the man- 
ner in which it was prepared for consumption. 
If one believes that a meal under such circum- 
stances, with hunger for a sauce, is not really 
good, let him try a combination of fried bacon, 
eggs, potatoes, bread, home pickled olives, 
fresh honey in the comb, sweet dairy butter, 
black coffee, oranges and lemons. The table 
was a piece of canvas spread upon the ground. 
The afterwork done and my utensils nicely 
packed away, I spent an hour in broken con- 
versation with my curious visitors, and then 



28 An Endeavorer's Working 

sought delicious rest, with my head in the 
United States and my feet in Mexico. I hope 
the fleas that left their imprint upon me that 
night were not American fleas. I should hesi- 
tate to think that even fleas from my country 
could be so rude as they. 

In the morning I started for the headwaters 
of one of the irrigation systems of San Diego 
County, and by passing through an extended 
grain belt, I reached the Otay dam, which is 
about eighteen miles from San Diego, protected 
by the mountains. The dam was then in course 
of construction. It was not difficult to find 
several odd jobs of barber work to do there, and 
while my horse nibbled I picked up a comfort- 
able sum by shaving the workmen, cutting 
their hair and honing several razors that were 
too dull to even give a hint of having ever pos- 
sessed sharp edges. Having replenished the 
purse, I crossed a small group of hills and came 
to the Sweetwater dam, which is four hundred 
feet above the sea level and supplies San Diego 
and the rich fruit belt around it with water. 
The dam is built of granite, taken from a can- 
yon just below it. Its width is more than 
twenty feet at the top and in form it is like the 
frustum of a pyramid. 

I camped that night immediately below the 
dam, in a narrow valley. Just before I fell 
asleep I thought of the consequences that 



Journey Around the World 29 

would follow a break in the dam and the cer- 
tainty of my being washed into the Pacific 
Ocean. But this danger did not drive slumber 
away or prevent a good night's rest. The next 
morning I again drove to San Diego and from 
there journeyed down the beautiful avenue 
called Orange Grove. This was followed by a 
visit to the ostrich farm, where there was ocu- 
lar denial of the adage that fine feathers make 
fine' birds. I went to the famous Coronado 
Beach hotel, the finest all-the-year-' round re- 
sort in the world. 

The San Diego mission is situated in the 
Mission valley, about eight miles from San 
Diego. This is the oldest of the Southern Cal- 
ifornia missions. It was founded in 1769, and 
is almost in ruins. That night the evening 
meal was prepared late, and the task was made 
easier by the use of a lighted candle, with the 
loose sand for a candlestick. At this place 
there is an Indian school, which has about two 
hundred students. I was surrounded by the 
little Indian boys, who watched me curiously 
as I prepared and ate supper. At sunrise I 
stood upon one of the fallen walls of the old 
mission. In the old tower were the bells whose 
tones had called, for more than a century, the 
red man from his chase and hunt to worship a 
Being the missionaries had taught him to 
know. This bell was cast in New Spain in 



30 An Endeavorer's Working 

1796. The work of the mission inspired a com- 
parison between this humane enterprise and 
the methods employed by De Soto in 1539. 
One used the Gospel of the Savior for winning 
the confidence and respect of the natives, while 
the other employed cruel methods to subdue 
them. This mission might now be in a good 
state of preservation had it not been for the 
settlers, who used the bricks to improve their 
claims, and for the relic hunters who have car- 
ried away large portions of it. The bricks of 
which the mission was built are almost as hard 
as the brick made to-day and are much larger. 

A drive up the Mission valley shows the 
traveler that the process of irrigation is no new 
thing in California. Cutting through the val- 
ley at frequent intervals are old, deserted and 
broken ditches which lead to the parched fields 
that were once the scenes of thrift and industry 
in the days when the mission was not an aban- 
doned ruin. My journey continued higher, 
leaving the railroads behind, and the week's 
travel closed at a little post-office called Bal- 
lana. 

Sunday morning, being above the fog, I was 
awakened by the sun. Later in the day groups 
of people could be seen going toward the little 
schoolhouse. Taking my Bible, I joined one 
of the groups and, proceeding to the school- 
house, found a Sunday-school. After this serv- 



Journey Around the World 31 

ice a preacher from one of the nearby mountain 
towns conducted regular church devotions. I 
sat on a bench with five or six boys. On the 
seat in front of me were an equal number of 
girls, giggling and causing the rude bench to 
crack, just as the girls in a more *' refined" 
community might do if they did not feel them- 
selves under greater restraint. The restlessness 
of the girls led to the expected result, and the 
bench and its occupants fell to the floor with a 
crash. That Sunday night I attended the Bap- 
tist Young People's Union meeting at Julian, a 
mining town that is 4,500 feet above the level 
of the sea and about twelve miles from where 
the girls disturbed the service in the morning. 
On Monday several gold mines were visited. 
Going down the mountain side many tunnels 
leading into the mines could be seen. The 
variety for this day was added to by the 
slaughter of a dangerous looking rattlesnake 
that persisted in getting in my way. 

A few miles further on I found Warner's 
ranch. Near a pure, cool stream in that vicin- 
ity I was engaged in the preparation of the 
noonday meal when a large, powerful Indian 
came to my little camp and stood near the fire, 
gazing long and intently into the frying-pan. 
The cooking food was the only thing that at- 
tracted him, and after having had his eyes fixed 
upon it for a considerable time he gave a grunt 



32 An Endeavorer's Working 

of longing and real desire, and said, "Me very 
hungry, me very hungry. " I was too far from 
a base of supplies to share the meal, however, 
and when I refused he accepted the verdict 
quietly, and not as a warrior. He gathered up 
his lariat, which had a spotted pony at the end 
of it, and was soon lost from sight. On the 
tract of land through which I next passed, I 
was told that there were 30,000 head of cattle. 
Warner's Hot Springs are just beyond a group 
of small hills, and there a number of squaws 
were gathered, doing their washing. They 
would drop a garment into the pool and then, 
fishing it out, would beat it against the rocks 
until clean. 

I reached Oak Grove late that night, and 
upon awaking in the morning found myself 
between two spreading trees of this variety and 
on the bank of a sparkling stream. A drive 
over many level plains, broken only by an oc- 
casional clump of sage brush, brought me to a 
grain country, and in the midst of waving fields 
the old horse trotted for many miles. Now and 
then a "rancher" could be seen gathering his 
hay into bales. Presently there was the ap- 
pearance of familiar country, for there was the 
faint sound of escaping steam, the rumble of an 
approaching engine, and the inevitable sign, 
"Railroad Crossing, Look out for the Cars." 

The orange belt begins at Moreno, and in 



Journey Around the World 33 

this neighborhood the water gushes from im- 
mense pipes down the mountain sides and 
finally runs into large ditches, from which 
it is distributed to several parts of Riverside 
county. Redlands is on the western slope of 
the San Bernardino mountains. Here are 
the winter mansions of many wealthy per- 
sons, gathered in a typical home spot. 
Crossing the Santa Ana river I wound around 
up the canyon until Brown's ranch was reached. 
There I learned that the wagon road was 
blocked by snow and that Bear Valley could be 
reached only by horse trail. Old "Buzz" hap- 
pened to be a good traveler under the saddle, 
and, using my lariat, I made a "hackamour" 
for a bridle, tied my blankets and canvas up 
for a saddle, made girths and other necessary 
parts of the harness out of the rest of the rope 
and, with Buzz's food in one end of a barley 
sack and mine in the other, started up the trail. 
This path leads up both sides of the canyon 
alternately. On the first summit there is a 
little cabin known as -the "Mountaineers' 
Home," and here were three tourists who had 
just reached the home from the other side. At 
the bottom, on the opposite side, there was 
another log cabin, half buried in the snow. In 
it lived an old man who had been contented 
with that kind of lonesome life for many years, 
and who probably intended to remain there 



34 An Endeavorer's Working 

until his days were ended. At noon the second 
summit was reached. A ride through consider- 
able snow brought me to a small, sheltered 
meadow, where I fed the horse and prepared a 
meal for myself. The dinner was consumed 
and thoroughly relished at a height of six thou- 
sand feet above the place where breakfast had 
been eaten. From this summit there is a 
splendid view of the Bear Valley, the glassy lake 
and the surrounding hills covered with stately 
pine trees. The repast was followed by an 
immediate resumption of the journey and, 
winding down a steep and narrow trail, I was 
soon at the Bear Valley Dam, the principal 
irrigating system of southern- California. I 
made camp that night on the shore of the lake, 
and the faithful horse was turned loose for a 
few hours of freedom after a hard journey of 
twenty miles. Another camp near by had been 
made by two young men who had come over 
the trail the day before on burros. The next 
morning we were awakened by the tinkling of 
the bells worn by the burros. I was up at 4 
o'clock, and an hour later was jogging along 
the lake shore toward its upper end. Then an- 
other trail was taken, I was soon on the sum- 
mit again, and in a few hours lost sight of the 
charming valley, as I rode down the mountain 
side through the snow which in some places was 
four feet deep. Passing through Seven Oaks, 



Journey Around the World 35 

a little summer resort in the Santa Ana canyon, 
I readied my buggy before night and again 
enjoyed the comforts of a cushioned seat as I 
traveled down toward Redlands. That night 
camp was made in an orange orchard, and I 
cooked supper between two rows of orange 
trees, with the golden fruit hanging all around. 
It was easy to fancy that they resented such an 
intrusion. When I awoke next morning and 
looked up through the branches of well-laden 
trees, I thought of what a tramp, or "boxcar 
tourist," said of southern California: "All you 
have to do is to raise up your foot in the morn- 
ing, shake your roof and your breakfast comes 
tumbling down to you." 

On May 29 I drove through a large grain 
belt to San Bernardino, where I spent the day 
with friends whom I had become acquainted 
with on a previous visit. Among this number 
was L. D. Johnson, who, after a short talk, 
decided to join me in the expedition. He 
agreed to join me by train, a few weeks later, 
at Madera. That same^ afternoon I journeyed 
to Pomona. The beautiful Euclid Avenue out 
of Pomona is truly a "lover's lane," for it is 
lined on both sides with eucalyptus trees and 
pepper trees. At eleven o'clock that night I 
reached the home of the beloved pastor of my 
church, Prof. F. M. Dowling. This was truly 
like _iome, and without arousing the family I 



36 An Endeavorer's Working 

put the horse in the barn and crawling into the 
loft was soon fast asleep. In the morning I 
entered my old church home for the last time 
in several eventful years. On June 3 I left 
Pomona, the place whose name implies, as it 
should, the home of the flower and fruit. 
Meanwhile I had been appointed a delegate 
from my church to the Christian Endeavor 
International Convention, to be held in San 
Francisco. In the valley a few miles from 
Pomona I visited the old San Gabriel Mission. 
At about dark I reached a watering place 
called Gum Grove. It deserves the name, for 
the little saloon and neighboring buildings are 
surrounded and almost hidden from view by 
rows of tall eucalyptus, or "Blue Gum trees." 
The smiling saloonkeeper was standing in 
front of his place, across the road from which 
was a quantity of new-mown hay. Driving the 
horse up to the watering trough I asked the 
keeper concerning the ownership of the hay. 
He said it was his, and invited me to take of it 
and of the water, and to make myself at home. 
He was a most remarkable man for one of his 
calling, I thought, and the matter claimed my 
mind long after I had rolled myself into my 
blankets. But the whole affair was easily ex- 
plained the next morning when I saw in his 
face a look that indicated his displeasure over 
my failure to visit his place of business. He 



Journey Around the World 37 

told me in strong language, punctuated with 
oaths, that I might have "spent a few bits 
with a feller," and cursed me for having par- 
taken of water that God made free for every- 
one. My reply was as straightforward as I 
could make it, and the man was given to un- 
derstand that he need never look for support in 
such a trade from me. With a parting shot 
that left him unable to make a quick reply, I 
went on my way. There are many of these 
watering places in that part of the country, but 
they appear to have been improperly named, 
for water is the last beverage their frequenters 
seem to think of drinking. 

In the lively city of I^os Angeles, which I 
reached a few hours later, I spent but a few 
hours, preferring to push on to San Fernando 
by way of Pasadena. I spent that night at 
San Fernando, a small Mexican city in which 
there is another of the old Catholic missions. 
Near this mission gold was first discovered in 
California by a French Canadian named Bap- 
tiste Ranalle, in the year 1841. 

Going on from San Fernando, I came upon 
the longest railroad tunnel in California. It is 
on the Southern Pacific Railway and is the 
initial tunnel between I^os Angeles and Bakers- 
field. It has many successors, however, for 
this is a very mountainous country, and there 
are so many tunnels that the railroad crews are 



38 An Endeavorer's Working 

called "smoke-eaters." The wagon road goes 
over the mountains, and for a time I lost sight 
of the railroad. The trip at that stage was so 
laborious that a tunnel for private use would 
have been acceptable indeed.] 

It is a steep and sandy road that leads up the 
canyon called San Moquit. Toward evening I 
came across Tucker's ranch, and as it was Sat- 
urday evening, I prepared to camp over Sun- 
day. The sacred day was spent in the shade of 
huge oaks, beside a babbling stream and in 
the pleasant company of some campers from 
L/OS Angeles, who were also headed for the 
Yosemite. Monday morning I was up early, 
and after winding zig-zag up the steep canyon, 
finally reached the summit of the Sierra Pelona 
mountains, and also the edge of the beautiful 
lyake Elizabeth. This was the rim of the 
Mojave desert. It took two days to cross the 
southern corner of this desert, and I never be- 
fore realized what a real waste could be. I 
had crossed this several times before, but 
always by rail. 

In this lonesome place I was out of hearing 
of human voice. At the last possible place I 
had purchased water and hay for the horse. 
My home the first night on the desert was 
strange indeed. I had no sideboard and was 
not bothered by hotel porters or waiters hungry 
for tips. In that wild place there was a perfect 



Journey Around the World 39 

feeling of security, for the moon seemed to be 
keeping a careful watch, and the only animals I 
had seen on the desert were horned toads, liz- 
ards, tarantulas and occasionally a half-asleep 
rattlesnake, short and thick, or an athletic rab- 
bit. As for means of self-protection, I had not 
even a butcher knife or a hatchet. 

For miles I drove over this level tract, away 
up on top of the mountains 4,000 feet above the 
level of the sea, and during the trip saw noth- 
ing of vegetation but bunches of cactus and 
vast armies of yucca palm, standing like senti- 
nels over the boundless stretch. These palms 
are very peculiar in appearance. They have a 
cluster of thorned spears at the base, and from 
this breastwork of defense there rises a stem 
about three feet in height. Perhaps it will 
then bend abruptly at a right angle and grow 
out for a foot or more, then raising its head to 
the sky again or bending it toward the earth. 
This misshaped plant then buds and blossoms 
into a very beautiful and fragrant flower. 
When this dies, early in the summer, it leaves a 
dry stalk and clump of thorns. As there are 
many thousands of them in sight at one time, 
they give the desert a waste and forsaken ap- 
pearance. As one gazes out over them about 
dusk, they give a suggestion of watchmen on a 
battlefield, for it is not difficult to imagine that 
the crooked arms resemble muskets. 



40 An Endeavorer's Working 

On this desert tlie wind verily ceaseth not to 
blow. Day and night there is a terrific gale, 
caused by the altitude, dryness of the air and 
the heating and alternating cooling properties 
of the desert. In the daytime it is very hot 
and the air is as though blown from an oven. 
I was compelled to dig a hole in the ground in 
order to kindle a fire over which to cook my 
meals. The wind not only was strong enough 
to blow out the fire, but it carried away the 
wood from the feeble blaze. The "wood," 
however, was merely a substitute in the form 
of a sage brush, which I had gathered from 
sheltered nooks, behind a cactus clump or a 
group of yucca palms. The only human beings 
I saw on the desert were a few Mexicans or 
half-breed Indians, and they were about as 
scarce as the harmless rabbits or the sluggish 
snakes. 

The next day I went through a little water- 
ing place called Gordon^ Station, and by the 
time night came I was through the Tejon 
(Tee-hone) Pass. As the sun was setting be- 
hind the stately hills, I could look down upon 
the fields of golden grain in the Joaquin Valley. 
Here at Tehachapi the Coast Range and the 
Sierra Nevadas come together and form a divide 
that extends into the valley. Here also is the 
big loop on the Southern Pacific Railway, 
where the track runs around the side of the 



Journey Around the World 41 

mountain and back in such a way as to run 
under itself. From the summit there is a fine 
view of the Sierra Nevadas, with the snow- 
capped Mount Whitney holding its head 15,000 
feet above the sea. 

As I drove on down the mountains I came 
into the largest wheat belt on the Pacific coast, 
and as I neared Bakersfield I crossed several 
large open irrigating ditches, which carry 
water from the Kern river and distribute it over 
this vast area of country for the purpose of 
watering the fruit trees and the alfalfa crops. 
I arrived in Bakersfield on June 9. From there 
I went to Delano and spent a few days with a 
cousin engaged in grain raising. 

And now in this section of the country the 
harvesters, for a distance of about three hun- 
dred miles, are beginning to lay low the ripened 
grain. Harvest there begins about the first 
of June and lasts at least ninety days. The 
combined harvesters now in use are no small 
affairs. They are capable of taking from twen- 
ty-four ^to thirty-six head of horses or mules, 
and the immense machines indeed cut a "wide 
swath." But few short turns have to be made 
in a day, owing to the vastness of the fields, 
and by the time a harvester has passed over the 
ground it has cut, thrashed, fanned and sacked 
the grain in jute bags, while a man stands at 
the mouth of the chute, sews the sacks up, and 



42 An Endeavorer's Working 

then drops them to the giound, where they are 
picked up and hauled to the warehouses after 
the harvest is all over, sometimes two months. 
From this place of industry I went to Tulare, 
and from there to Sanger, where there is an 
immense mill which gets its lumber from the 
tops of the Sierra mountains by means of a 
flume that winds down the mountain sides and 
through deep canyons for a distance of more 
than seventy miles. From there, through the 
raisin belt which surrounds Fresno, to the city 
of that name, which is supported principally 
by that industry, I drove the next morning. 
On the journey to Madera a great many jack- 
rabbits were seen. They had escaped the last 
drive that had been made in the regular effort 
to get as near rid of this pest as possible. They 
do a great amount of damage to the fruit crops, 
and the drives, in which all the men, boys and 
dogs for miles around take part, are marvelous 
carnivals of blood. The hunters, at the start, 
encircle a certain amount of territory. Then, 
by shouting at the top of their voices, they 
frighten the rabbits, run them into fence cor- 
ners and slaughter them by the hundreds. 
Fences made of net wire are constructed around 
orchards to protect the small trees from the 
damaging rabbits. 



Journey Around the World 43 

CHAPTER II 
A Traveling Companion 

I ARRIVED at Madera early in the day, and it 
was several days later when I left, for there 
were old friends to visit and pleasant acquaint- 
ances to renew. It was there, also, that I was 
to wait for the young man who was to be my 
traveling companion from that time on. From 
the time Mr. Johnson joined me my journeys 
were more thoroughly made and more enjoyable, 
on account of the cheering influence of an asso- 
ciate. On June 21 we packed our buggy, filling 
every crevice with supplies for ourselves and 
horse. We needed everything we carried, for 
we were about to undertake the ascension of the 
Sierra Nevada mountain on a trip to the Yosem- 
ite valley. 

We left Madera bright and early and drove 
through Raymond to a stage station eight 
miles farther up. We refused the invitation of 
a gay camping party to spend the night there. 
When we saw that they were having an "out- 
ing" on a very modern and refined plan we 
decided to continue the life of roughing it and 
to push forward. The next place where we 
could get water was six miles up the hill, and 
the sun was almost down, but we found when we 



44 An Endeavorer's Working 

arrived there that it had paid to resist even so 
attractive an invitation, for there was plenty of 
game on the way up and we feasted on rabbit, 
dove and quail. At about 8:30 o'clock we 
pitched camp, and within half an hour had the 
horse cared for and a fine fowl stew singing 
over the camp fire. Soon afterward we took 
our first lesson in practical astronomy together, 
by making our beds under the canopy of the 
twinkling stars and lying on our backs, while 
the gentle breezes played with the corners of 
our blankets and the dusty locks on our heads. 

What a delicious feeling of refreshment we 
experienced the next morning, and how well 
we enjoyed the breakfast of fried rabbit, can 
best be left to the imagination. We started up 
the hill for Grub Gulch, at which place we 
arrived about 11 o'clock. There were several 
quartz mines there that were worth looking 
through and a stamp mill that was interesting. 
At the Grub Gulch hotel we induced the pro- 
prietor to give a pie-fruit can to the good of 
the cause. This can, with the dexterous em- 
ployment of a piece of baling wire, was soon 
converted into a very acceptable coffee pot, of 
which we were sadly in need. We had been 
cooking everything in one pot, making coffee 
in it after the food had been prepared for the 
table. 

A short time after leaving Grub Gulch we 



Journey Around the World 45 

chanced to look down into a little valley, and 
there we saw a big Indian squaw riding on a 
small "cayuse." Behind her sat a buck. They 
had evidently just been married or were about 
to be, and their attitude was the very essence of 
affection, as the buck held his prized one on by 
clasping her firmly around the waist. 

At about noon we met two wheelmen coming 
from the valley. They were using all sorts of 
"complimentary" words about the mountains 
and valley, and things in general, but we were 
of the opinion that their real trouble was that 
their method of locomotion was by means of 
bicycles instead of the more practicable — at 
least in such a country as that— donkey. Stead- 
ily up grade we continued for about six hours, 
one of the hills being eight miles long, and at 
sunset we reached the first summit, where we 
pitched camp in a yard that surrounded a vacant 
house and was filled with feed that was rel- 
ished by the horse. June 23 we were com- 
pelled to pay the first toll that had been 
charged since I began the journey. The 
amount was 25 cents, and it was paid at a little 
saw mill. At noon we reached Wawona, the 
station where the stage stops for the night. For 
us that was wash day. We found a delightful 
little creek, where it was possible to thoroughly 
cleanse our wearing apparel as well as ourselves. 
Then we went "down town," the same con- 



46 An Endeavorer's Working 

sisting of one hotel, one store and one black- 
smith shop. 

The next morning we set out for the Mari- 
posa grove of big trees, on foot. After travel- 
ing up a steep mountain trail for several miles 
we came upon a group of these immense trees. 
They were standing by the roadside and we 
came upon them so suddenly that we were sur- 
prised when we found that the object of that 
day's sight-seeing was so near at hand. The 
largest is 104 feet in circumference at the base. 
A little farther on is the "Grizzly Giant," 
which is 108 feet around. This monster is 
well named. It is the largest in the world, 
and has brushy limbs projecting from its huge 
trunk. The first limb is fifty feet from the 
ground, and is more than six feet in diameter. 
While we were still struck with awe over this 
marvelous work of the Creator, we went on to 
the tree through which the stage coach passes 
and which is about 150 yards from the Grizzly 
Giant. In this tree we ate our lunch. Al- 
though this roomy passageway has been cut 
through the tree, it is still alive, and appears 
to thrive as well as its brothers who have not 
been altered by the hand of man. 

The upper Grove is about two and a half 
miles from the Grizzly Giant, and on up the 
mountain side. In this grove there are a large 
number of huge trees, many of them being 



Journey Around the World 47 

familiarly named for cities and states, such as 
St. Louis, Philadelphia, New York, Pennsyl- 
vania, etc. Others are named for noted men, 
like Lincoln, Grant and Washington. It is in 
this grove that the Wawona tree, the one 
through which the stage road passes, is situ- 
ated. After procuring moss from the Grizzly 
Giant and bark from another immense tree, we 
returned to camp, where we camped, apprecia- 
ted a good supper and followed it by a trip to 
town, and then another night for the study 
of astronomy in our own practical way. 

When we awoke on the morning of Friday, 
June 25, the rain was falling in our faces. It 
was with happy hearts that we crawled out of 
our blankets, for the gentle rain was fast set- 
tling the dust that had been making travel so 
unpleasant. At 6 o'clock that morning we left 
Wawona for the valley, twenty-six miles away, 
and mostly up hill. One mile from Wawona 
there is the camp of the soldiers who are sta- 
tioned there to guard the entrance to the park. 
One of their duties is to seal all firearms that 
are carried into the state reservation, Califor- 
nia's gem of nature. We had a gun, and 
to save delay or an unpleasant experience, it 
had been concealed in the bottom of the buggy. 
This precaution proved unnecessary, however, 
for just as we were passing the camp the bugle 
sounded for breakfast, and, the soldiers think- 



48 An Endeavorer's Working 

ing more of the morning meal than they did of 
our arsenal, we were unmolested. 

There were numerous deer tracks in the road, 
but no deer until we entered the valley. The 
first view of the valley was from Inspiration 
Point. Here Bl Capitan, a bold, barren, per- 
pendicular cliff at the head of the valley, rising 
more than three thousand feet above it, can be 
plainly seen. In the distance can be seen the 
North Dome, a round peak standing by itself. 
Around to the right of it is the Half Dome, a 
peak that appears to have been cut in two and 
which bears a strong resemblance to the letter 
D. Behind this rise the snow-capped peaks of 
the Sierra Nevadas, with their cold heads for- 
ever above the snow line. 

Still farther around pours the constant stream 
of the Merced. As it falls over two cliffs in 
succession at the upper end of the valley it 
looks like a beautiful white ribbon hanging in 
graceful festoons. Nearer us was Glacier 
Point, and the overhanging rock, which reach- 
es out into space more than three thousand feet 
above the valley. At our feet were the Bridal 
Veil falls. This precipitation of water and 
mist truly is a magnificent sight. Although 
the amount of water falling is small, it comes 
leaping from the edge of a precipice 860 feet 
high, and in its descent strikes the stones 
which throw it into a spray that bounds from 



Journey Around the World 49 

rock to rock and then rises in filmy clouds that 
give it much the appearance of that which has 
imparted to it its appropriate name. The In- 
dians call it the "Spirit of the Evil Wind." 

Crossing the Merced river, which flows in a 
winding, emerald stream through the valley, 
we came to the hotel, stores and post office. 
There the guardian of the valley told us that 
the sights to be seen there were ours to enjoy to 
the fullest extent. So we followed the tortuous 
stream for a distance of two miles, and there 
came upon a camp having about 500 inhabi- 
tants. They were sight-seers, there for a like 
purpose, but most of them, perhaps, seeing and 
living upon a more pretentious plan. There 
was one camp which had recently been va- 
cated, situated just across the way from "Tapi- 
oca Camp," and of it we took immediate pos- 
session. There we prepared our first supper in 
the Yosemite Valley. That toothsome task 
finished, we saw that in order to be abreast of 
the prevailing style we would have to give our 
camp a name. Procuring a smooth board, we 
soon had the Cuckoo Tavern printed thereon, 
and this sign we placed in the conspicuous po- 
sition which the name and its owners merited. 

The next morning, after a breakfast at the 

"Tavern" that was up to the standard fixed by 

our tastes and appetites, we prepared a lunch 

and started for the trail toward Glacier Point. 

4 



50 An Endeavorer's Working 

This is a reasonably good trail, zig-zagging up 
the side of the cliff. At the top we stood, al- 
ternately, on the overhanging rock and took 
eaeh other's pictures in that position, according 
to the prevailing habit of tourists the world 
ar®und. On the downward trip we followed 
another trail, leading to the Nevada Falls, and 
came to a pure, cold stream, where we rested 
and partook of the mid-day lunch. Just as we 
were ready to start, a woman, who had traveled 
ahead of her party, came to us and said she was 
almost famished for a drink. I washed out a 
small can that had contained corn beef, and, 
filling it with clear water from the little run- 
ning stream, offered it to her with as great a dis- 
play of gallantry as I could have shown under 
circumstances of some formality. The shock 
to my feelings can be faintly imagined when it 
is known that the lady informed me that she 
could not drink from such a receptacle. She 
sat down, with her thirst, and waited until her 
party caught up with her. Then she procured 
a silver mug, with appropriate carvings, and 
divers embellishments, and drank from it. 

The South Fork Falls are truly beautiful. 
From a height of five hundred feet the water 
comes tearing down, rushing through a narrow 
canyon which it has worn in the edge of the 
cliff. The tiny drops race madly to the bottom, 
where they unite in a thunderous roar, are 




GLACIER POINT, IN THE YOSEMITE VALLEY, 3,100 FEET ABOVE THE 
BANKS OF THE MERCED RIVER, WHERB; THE CAMP WAS SITUATED. 



Journey Around the World 51 

scattered again and finally join forces for the 
last sweep toward the river. The Nevada Falls 
give an effect similar to the other falls, but are 
very different in formation. Here the water 
strikes projecting rocks several times and is 
from them thrown out and dashed into spray. 
Then, suddenly collecting itself, it rushes on in 
the characteristic fashion of madness, only to be 
thrown down another precipice, known as the 
Vernal Falls, a distance of 336 feet. 

We reached camp that night at about 5 
o'clock, having tramped over twent»y miles of 
mountain trail. After a hearty dinner we 
bathed in the icy water of the^Merced river. As 
we were emerging from the bath several bombs 
were thrown from the top of Glacier Point, al- 
most directly above our heads. They exploded 
with a deafening roar that was echoed many 
times from the neighboring hills and moun- 
tains and seemed to shake the entire valley. 

The next day, Sunday, was, as usual, our 
day for rest. After a late breakfast we drove 
down to the guardian's office, where we wrote 
letters, and then went on down the valley to 
the little Yosemite chapel. Here we met peo- 
ple from all parts of the world, and, although 
but few were acquainted with others, we were 
all there for one purpose, and there was a gen- 
eral feeling of friendship and unity. In the 
afternoon we went up to the marvelously placid 



52 An Endeavorer's Working 

Mirror Lake, which reflects the outlines of 
mountains, cliffs and trees perfectly. The rest 
of the day was pleasantly occupied in visiting 
with our camp neighbors, around huge fires, 
and in enjoying, together with some of the 
young women from Tapioca Camp, an open-air 
concert and song service in the neighboring 
locality. 

Monday we went up the trail to the foot of 
the Yosemite Falls. This is the highest water- 
fall in the world, and is made up of three di- 
visions. Its height is nearly 2,600 feet, the 
first division being 1,503 feet. After reaching 
the foot of this we decided to go behind the 
falling water. With much climbing and slip- 
ping over the wet rocks, we managed to follow 
a crevice between two large boulders and, con- 
tinuing in the face of difficulties, were soon be- 
hind the spraying sheet. Here, for the novelty 
of it, we ate a portion of our lunch, but we were 
becoming so saturated that we decided to put 
an end to the novelty and go in search of a 
dryer spot. By the time we reached the top 
of the falls the warm sunshine had almost dried 
our clothing. By means of a beaten trail and 
steps cut in the rocks, we managed to descend 
to the very edge of the falls, with that mighty 
flood falling at our feet, while an immense 
rainbow crowned the wonderful picture. 

Four miles further is Eagle Peak, a high 



Journey Around the World 53 

mountain of barren boulders overlooking the 
valley. Far below, wagons and vehicles of 
various kinds can be seen threading their way 
toward many destinations, and looking from 
such a distance like mere toys moving upon a 
fairyland playground. Upon our arrival at 
camp we ate a lunch of applesauce and crack- 
ers, meanwhile making preparations for a boun- 
teous dinner. We followed this by the prepara- 
tion of a large kettle of sauce which we knew 
would be appetizing at any hour, when regular 
meals were being waited for. 

The next morning two of our neighbors 
agreed to meet us at the foot of the Nevada 
Falls trail and we set out for Mirror Lake, 
where we arrived in time to get a view of the 
beautiful sheet of water just as the sun was ris- 
ing behind the Half Dome. After enjoying the 
scenery for some time we descended to the foot 
of the trail, where we were to meet the young 
women whom we called our neighbors in camp. 
It had been agreed that they were to furnish 
the lunch, while we were to help them to the 
top of the Nevada Falls, where the luncheon 
was to be spread. We intended then to go on 
to Cloud's Rest, the highest mountain peak 
around the valley. But we waited for some 
time and they did not appear, so, fearing that 
we would be too late to climb the mountain if 
we delayed longer, we started on the upward 



54 An Endeavorer's Working 

journey, expecting to get back in time to fill 
the engagement made hours before. 

But we had not reckoned properly on the 
task before us. We toiled up the hot and 
dusty trail toward the summit and at i o'clock 
had not near reached the top. We met a large 
and ruddy-faced gentleman riding on a horse, 
and we told him of our failure to make connec- 
tion with the promised lunch, and of our grow- 
ing thirst, which was then bothering us great- 
ly. He informed us that if we kept on a short 
distance we would be able to eat snowballs, 
and this we found to be true. Dragging our 
weary feet up and up we finally reached the 
summit, where we not only found snow that 
served the place of water, but were rewarded 
by a view of the country that was truly in- 
spiring. Away off to the west lay the beautiful 
Yosemite Valley and. off to the east, standing 
out in bold relief, were the snow-capped peaks 
of the Sierras. 

The hour was late, and we had to forsake 
the picture. Rolling a number of snowballs 
we wrapped them in our handkerchiefs for the 
purpose of taking them to the companions we 
had missed, and whose dainty victuals we felt 
so pressing a need of. The descent was as 
rough a journey as I ever made, for we rolled, 
slid, ran, jumped and fell in turn. After travel- 
ing downward for about an hour, we came to a 



Journey Around the World 55 

large stone in the path, and on it was a pack- 
age, wrapped in common paper, and bearing 
these words: "For whoever may be hungry 
or have failed to take their lunch." 

That certainly meant us. It was a double 
application and we lost no time in undoing the 
package. The contents were not bountiful, 
but they renewed our courage and our energy. 
Bounding on down the trail we came to the 
fleshy, ruddy gentleman, who was resting after 
his exertions. His name was Dr. Hubble, of 
Redlands, and it was he, kind and thoughtful 
soul, who had left the welcome lunch. A short 
time later we reached the top of the Nevada 
Falls, but the young women were not there. 
Neither were they at the top of the Vernal 
Falls. We had just about decided that we 
were deserted when we cam.e suddenly upon 
them. They had heard us shouting further up 
the trail, and in preparation of our coming had 
spread the toothsome lunch upon a huge flat 
rock and had it in readiness when we arrived. 
The food was too inviting to permit much time 
to be wasted in apologies for tardiness or unex- 
plained delays. It tells the story of that never- 
to-be-forgotten meal to say that the rock, by the 
time we had finished, could not have been swept 
cleaner by a cyclone from the prairies which 
my eyes had grown so familiar with in my boy- 
hood. We accompanied the young women to 



56 An Endeavorer's Working 

the foot of the trail, where a welcome sight 
met our gaze in the form of a wagon, in which 
sat the father of one of them, ready to carry us 
back to camp. 

That was our last night in the valley. The 
next morning we arose early and after striking 
camp and bidding farewell to our newly made 
friends, zigzagged up the road, hot and dusty 
at that early hour, and left the Yosemite be- 
. hind. After dinner we passed the summit, 
went through Crane Flats and Crocker's Toll 
Gate and camped about two miles north of 
Crocker's on a little brook where there was 
plenty of feed and wood. After supper we 
kindled a roaring fire that lit up the woods 
for quite a distance, jumped into the stream for 
a bath and then went to bed with a shout and a 
song. The next day we were obliged to pay a 
toll of $2 at a gate called Colfax Springs, and 
reaching the Luolumne River paid another toll 
of fifty cents. Crossing a creek we camped 
near Jacksonville, a run-down mining camp. 

In the morning we drove up to Senora, a 
prosperous mining town of about 4,000 inhabit- 
ants and seventy-five miles from the nearest rail- 
road point. Here we replenished our stock of 
provisions and then, leaving by way of James- 
town, or "Jimtown," as it is commonly called, 
camped for lunch near the Rawhide mine. 
This is the richest ledge mine in the world, the 



Journey Around the World ^7 

wealth taken from it being in the neighbor- 
hood of from $300,000 to $400,000 a month. 
While we were cooking our lunch an old forty- 
niner came down and recounted reminiscences 
that were indeed interesting to young men who 
knew nothing of those experiences save from 
the words that fell from older lips. 

In the middle of that afternoon we drove 
through a large irrigating ditch and, woe to us, 
stuck right in the middle of it. The horse in 
trying to pull us out, broke the harness, and 
there we were, held fast in the mud and at 
least four feet from land. There was but one 
thing to do, and that was to wade out. We 
did this as gracefully as possible, and, catching 
the horse which had preceded us by several 
minutes, we tied a rope around the axle, cut a 
tree limb for a single tree, hitched ourselves 
with the horse, pulled the buggy out of the 
mire and headed for the nearest ranch house in 
order that we might get the harness repaired. 

That night we camped a few miles from 
Knight's Ferry, and the next morning drove 
out into the San Joaquin Valley, the great 
wheat country of California. At night we 
drove through Stockton and camped about two 
miles out at a ranch where there were excellent 
accommodations . 

Our expenses for one horse and two persons, 
for the two weeks of sight-seeing, amounted to 



^8 An Endeavorer's Working 

$15, divided as follows: Tolls, $5, wHcli 
would have been less had we returned by the 
same route we entered; horse feed, $3, and 
sundries and provisions for ourselves, $7. 
These items also would have been smaller had 
it been possible for us to carry more at one 
time. Our vehicle was of very limited capa- 
city, however, and we were compelled to make 
purchases at the little stores up in the moun- 
tains, where prices seem to keep pace with the 
growing altitude of the country as the traveler 
proceeds upon his way. 

We celebrated the Fourth of July in the pur- 
chase of five cents worth of flags of which we 
made a patriotic display. Then we left Stock- 
ton, going by way of French Camp, Lathrop, 
across the San Joaquin River at Bante and 
then on throughout the hot, scorching day, 
watching the fitful mirages as they portrayed 
to our thirsty gaze pictures of shaded lakes and 
cool resting places. But as the journey length- 
ened we found them mirages without reality to 
give them foundation, and the enticing scenes 
which frequently hung in the air were only fol- 
lowed by a continuation of the monotony of the 
desert plain. We passed through several small 
towns and at night reached a little settlement 
called Byron. About a mile outside the town 
we camped on a wind-swept hill. There was a 



Journey Around the World ^9 

Methodist church near by, and we attended 
services in the evening. 

Passing over a small range of hills next day, 
we left the grain belt as if by magic, and 
entered a land of fruit, fertile and charming to 
behold. Stopping at a little town we procured 
some paint and soon had on the side of our 
buggy the words, "From Mexico to S. F., C. 
E. '97." That night we camped about fifteen 
miles from Oakland and next morning drove to 
the edge of the city where we prepared dinner. 
We reached the Oakland Mole about three 
o'clock in the afternoon and were there cor- 
dially welcomed by the Christian Endeavor 
Committee and plied with questions by the 
newspaper men. We then crossed the bay and 
took lodgings with our horse across the street 
from Mechanics' Pavilion, In the evening we 
attended the grand opening concert of the 
Christian Endeavor Convention, in which there 
were 1,800 voices, accompanied by more than 
one hundred instruments. At the close of their 
stirring anthems the entire congregation of 
12,000 persons joined in the inspiring rendition 
of "America." On Wednesday and Thursday 
we attended the sessions of the Convention at 
Mechanics' Pavilion, and attended the denomi- 
national rally of the Christian Church Thurs- 
day evening. 

Friday, July 9th, we hitched the horse to the 



6o An Endeavorer's Working 

unfailing buggy that had served us so well and 
drove to the Golden Gate park. The conserva- 
tory of flowers there is filled with tropical 
plants and flowers of many varieties. On the 
lawn there was a fine floral piece outlining the 
letters "Welcome, C. E. 1897." The zoolog- 
ical garden in the park has a good collection of 
buffalo and other animals, and the museum is a 
place of interest. From the park we went to 
the Cliff House on the Pacific Ocean. From 
the lower porch of the hotel we could see the 
seals basking in the sun on the rocks that bear 
their name. The bathers, the parade on the 
C / beach, the beauties of (^utro Heights, all these 
I things added to a day notable for its variety of 
enjoyments. Not in this class, but none the less 
valuable on account of the addition it gave me 
to my stock of information concerning human 
nature, was my trip through Chinatown that 
night. The next day we attended the conven- 
tion and on Sunday went to the Metropolitan 
Temple where Bro. Powell preached. After 
dinner we packed our buggy and left the city, 
going down the peninsula to San Mateo, where 
we made camp for the night and later attended 
an Endeavor meeting at the Congregational 
Church. 

Monday we drove through several towns to 
Palo Alto. There we met Mr. layman, a pro- 
fessor of chemistry, who kindly consented to 



Journey Around the World 6i 

show us througli the Stanford University. In 
passing over this part of our journey it proba- 
bly would be necessary to mention the Quad- 
rangle, which is of one-story structures built 
around a large court and connected by shady 
arcades, the scores of rooms, the laboratories, 
the dormitories, the museum and the mau- 
soleum, which then contained the bodies of 
Senator Stanford and his son. I^astly there 
was the splendid stock farm, where so many 
horses of good blood have been reared and 
started upon careers which were to startle the 
racing world by their spurts of speed. 

The next day we visited a while at the home 
of W. S, Slade in Palo Alto, where we had 
been royally entertained a day and night, and 
then left for San Jose, on the way visiting the 
Santa Clara Mission erected in 1777. We then 
went into San Jose, coming on the southwest 
side and camping within four miles of Los 
Gatos. This is, indeed, one of the garden spots 
of the world, with every square foot of land 
either in cultivation or covered by a comforta- 
ble home, and the people all visibly prosperous 
and happy. After passing through Los Gatos 
we started across the mountains for Santa Cruz. 
In crossing a ditch we broke the "reach" to 
our buggy. But by the exercise of that degree 
of ingenuity which fellows in our undertaking 
are required to have, we managed by the use of 



62 An Endeavorer's Working 

baling wire and a long stick, whicli we used as 
a pry, or lever, to remedy the weakness suffi- 
ciently to complete the next twelve miles of 
the trip down the mountain to Santa Cruz. 
This temporary fixture to our vehicle was not 
unlike a trolley pole, and we had but to imag- 
ine that the horse was charged with electricity 
to persuade ourselves that we were riding in a 
modern motor car. We left the buggy in a 
Santa Cruz blacksmith shop and went on down 
the beach through the city, going from there 
to Garfield Park, where, in the pavilion, we 
heard a lecture by Mr. Jefferson, of Berkeley, 
before the convention of Christian churches of 
Northern California. 

After the buggy had been repaired we left 
for San Jose, but by a road different from the 
one over which we came. From San Jose we 
traveled toward Mount Hamilton for the pur- 
pose of taking a peep through the wonderful 
telescope in the Lick Observatory. This is 
twenty-six miles from San Jose. We camped 
on the bank of Smith's Creek and after supper 
walked the remaining seven miles to the 
Observatory. It was exceedingly disappoint- 
ing to find, when we got there, that the Ob- 
servatory was closed, but there was some satis- 
faction in the fact that the regular day for 
visitors was Saturday, which would be the fol- 



Journey Around the World 63 

lowing day. So we walked back to camp, 
arriving at midnight. 

The next day, after doing our washing and 
attending to other duties in the domestic line, 
we drove to the top of Mount Hamilton, spend- 
ing a couple of hours looking over the building 
and examining the many photographs of heav- 
enly bodies. After supper we ascended to the 
dome and took our places in the line of persons 
who were there for just the same purpose that 
had brought us. When it came our turn we sat 
in the stair-like seat, peeked through the little 
eye-piece and there, as though it were not more 
than one hundred yards away, saw the majestic 
Saturn, with its graceful rings and attending 
moons. In another part of the building, hav- 
ing looked through the thirty-six inch tele- 
scope, we were pleased to have the opportunity 
of seeing Jupiter through the twelve-inch equa- 
torial lens. 

Leaving the observatory and traveling down 
the mountain, we arrived at about i o'clock 
within six miles of San Jose. It had been a 
delightful return from so instructive an expe- 
rience, for the moon shone from a cloudless sky 
and the night was almost as bright as day. In 
the morning, proceeding toward San Jose, we 
passed a fruit dryer owned by Knowles Brothers 
and applied for employment. Being told that 
we could go to work the following day, we 



64 An Endeavorer's Working 

unloaded our things, arranged them in a "bunk 
house," where a dozen other young men were 
to be our companions, and settled down in the 
pleasant realization of promised employment. 
The rest of that day was spent in a trip to San 
Jose, where we embraced the opportunity of 
attending two Endeavor meetings. 

From Monday, July 19th, to Friday, the 23rd, 
we worked in the fruit dryer. Because they 
refused to serve supper until 9 o'clock at night 
we exercised the prerogative of all American 
workmen, and quit. Saturday morning, richer 
in purse and experience, we left the dryer, and 
started out by way of Milpetal, San Lorenzo 
and Alameda for Oakland, where we were 
entertained at the home of my uncle. On 
Sunday we attended Edward Davis's church. 

Going to the Oakland Mole the next morning, 
we took boat for San Francisco. Remaining 
there about one hour, we then took boat for 
Sansilato. From there we went around the bay 
to San Quentin, the site of the State peniten- 
tiary. As it was not visitors' day we were 
obliged to make one of our then famous special 
"talks" in order to gain admission. The talk 
was successful, and the captain of the guard 
detailed a guide to show us through the prison. 
The only industry carried on in the California 
pentitentiary is in the jute mill, where the con- 
victs make grain sacks. There were 1,400 



Journey Around the World 65 

convicts in the gloomy cells at the time of this 
visit. 

Leaving the prison we passed through San 
Rafael, and after driving about five miles 
further on, camped by the road. Having paid 
poll and road tax, like good citizens, we acted 
upon the supposition that whatever came into 
that road was ours. And so, when a lumbering 
old cow, with udder almost bursting with that 
which we most wanted then, came along, we 
cornered her and took from her that which 
refreshed us and made her not a bit poorer. 
On the way to Petaluma next day there was an 
experience with a swarm of mosquitoes that for 
absolute awfulness went beyond anything I had 
ever experienced. Two days were spent at 
Penn Grove, about five miles from Petaluma, 
with the family of Mr. Valier. From there we 
went to Santa Rosa, and after a visit with 
several friends proceeded to Healdsburg. In 
the river bottom we made camp. Sunday we 
found the Sotoyama Christian Church. 
5 



66 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER III 

The Geysers 

WE left Healdsburg Monday, and going 
through Geyser ville and Cloverdale, 
camped outside the latter place on the road to 
the geysers. These strange freaks of nature we 
reached the middle of the next day. From the 
canyon there comes a continuous roar of im- 
mense volumes of escaping steam and thin 
clouds rise heavenward from it. The sides of 
the canyon have been formed by chemical sub- 
stances thrown out in the form of vapor. This 
vapor has crystallized and now has the appear- 
ance of spongy rock. As one approaches the 
geysers the ground becomes warmer and warmer, 
and finally the large steam hole, called the 
Devil's Tea Kettle, is reached. The earth in 
this immediate vicinity, as well as the atmos- 
phere, became so extremely torrid that we were 
glad to move along. Near this spot is a mud 
spring and a clear water spring within two feet 
of each other, and both are boiling hot. Surely 
this is nature's chemical laboratory. 

In another canyon there is the "Steamboat 
Whistle," so called for reasons that do not have 
to be explained. This geyser is a large hole, 
from which issues a roaring, hissing volume of 



Journey Around the World (i"-/ 

steam. We drank from the sulphur, soda, and 
lemonade springs, and then left the geyser 
grounds by the old Clark Foss road, camping in 
a picturesque place, in a dense forest, where 
there was an abundance of fuel and water and 
an almost oppressive lack, of neighbors. After 
passing the summit of the mountains, we had a 
down-hill road through Middletown, a small 
stage station on Coyote Creek. Then on to 
Lower lyake we traveled, camping for the night 
on the large lake of Lake County. This body 
of water is twenty-eight miles long and from 
two to three miles wide. It is surrounded by 
brush hills which come down to the very edge 
of the lake. The second trip through Lower 
Lake, the next morning, took us over very 
rough roads in the mountains, and for a distance 
of fifty miles not more than half a dozen houses 
were seen. That evening a trip to the Man- 
hattan Quicksilver mine proved profitable, the 
process of separating the quicksilver from the 
cinnabar being exceedingly interesting. First 
the rock is broken up, into fine pieces and, 
being of a pink-red color, is in itself an attrac- 
tive sight when heaped in great piles. Huge 
ovens are arranged in the form of steps and in 
these the rock is baked for several days. Finally 
out of the ovens there comes trickling a little 
stream of quicksilver. This is conveyed to a 
general pipe and bottled in steel receptacles. 



68 An Endeavorer's Working 

One of these bottles, only eight inches high, 
and about four inches in diameter, weighs 
about one hundred pounds when filled. 

A small stage town called Monticello was 
reached on Friday, and to the delight of the 
writer it was learned that the village was in 
great need of a barber. The faces of the in- 
habitants gave evidence of this fact and of a 
promising field for labor. We therefore made 
preparations for a stay of undetermined length. 
As an evidence of the welcome addition to my 
purse during that stop it may not be improper 
to say that in one afternoon, at twenty-five 
cents for each shave, my profits were $4.50. 
That was so good a day's work that we decided 
to leave a prosperous field and continue the 
journey. Down Puter Creek to the head of the 
Pleasant Valley we traveled, and then on into 
the fruit-laden valley that leads to Vacaville, 
where the earliest fruit in California is raised. 
Ivcarning that a Mr. Bugby was in need of 
additional help on his fruit ranch, we decided 
to go out to his place the next morning and 
work for him. A week was spent in this way, 
j)lucking pears and cutting the fruit as a part of 
its preparation for the market. 

Ivcaving Vacaville, we passed through Wood- 
land and camped about three miles beyond the 
town, in the highway. Across miles and miles 
of barren, alkali plains we drove the following 



Journey Around the World 69 

day. lu the winter, because of the overflow of 
the Sacramento river, these plains are con- 
verted into small and dreary looking lakes. 
Down the river, past numerous hop yards, we 
drove to Sacramento, the capital of the State. 
We ate lunch on the capitol lawn, looked 
through the building, entered the governor's 
outer office, only to learn that the executive 
was out of the city, inspected the State library, 
went through the magnificent Catholic church 
which stands across the street from the capitol, 
and left Sacramento at 3 o'clock in the after- 
noon, crossing the American river, on which 
gold was first discovered in that State which 
has blossomed like the rose since the exciting 
days of the mining pioneers. 

Passing through a sparsely settled region, we 
camped on the Maryville road. Across the 
Feather River lies Maryville, a lively place of 
about 5,000 inhabitants. The town is twelve 
feet lower than the level of the river, and is 
only protected from engulfing floods by banks 
which frequently overflow. This unfavorable 
situation of the town was caused by hydraulic 
mining farther up the river. As the miners 
washed the hills away, looking for gold, the 
sand and gravel swept down to the river and 
filled its bed. 

Crossing the river in another direction we 
were in Yuba City, in the heart of a wonder- 



70 An Endeavorer's Working 

fully ricli and productive fruit belt. August 
19 was the hottest day we had experienced on 
our travels, the mercury reaching 117 in the 
shade. Despite the heat we pressed on all 
day, camping at night near a small town called 
Nelson, on a turkey ranch, where there were 
1,500 of the delights of Thanksgiving day. 
The ranchmen came out in the morning, with 
dogs as their able assistants, and herded the 
turkeys just as other ranchmen might herd 
sheep. The turkeys are taken out two or three 
miles and at night they come home without 
waiting for orders. Even to a turkey no roost 
is so good as the home roost. 

In the morning we went to Chico, passing 
the home of that California pioneer, John Bid- 
well. The avenue leading to his magnificent 
place is about two hundred feet wide and has 
four separate roads which are lined with locust 
and poplar trees. On up across the range to 
Vina we drove, coming to a large irrigation 
ditch. We made such an unsuccessful effort to 
drive in this ditch, in order to clean the buggy, 
that we were obliged to alight and unload. We 
went into camp then in the Stanford vineyard, 
which embraces 5,000 acres of land. 

On the road to Redding we met an old man 
who, falling into a reminiscent mood, told us of 
early days, prefacing his remarks by saying: 
"I think I can tell you about this country, for I 



Journey Around the World 71 

have been here longer than anyone else, unless 
it might be God, and, come to think about it, 
I don't believe God has been in these parts 
fifty years." We drove through Cottonwood, 
near which town a bridge burned during the 
Endeavor Convention, almost causing the de- 
struction of a train that carried a large number 
of delegates. Redding, the county seat of 
Shasta County, was reached in the afternoon. 
The town is happily named, for the soil upon 
which it is built is red and everything is cov- 
ered with a dust of the same shade. That 
night we reached Shasta, camping a short dis- 
tance from the town on a rocky hill. Continu- 
ing the journey, we came to a toll gate, and 
here my trade came in well again, for I prac- 
ticed it on the keeper of the gate. Beyond this 
there is a hamlet named Whisky Town, but 
the inducements that accompanied its name 
had no attractions for us, and we passed the 
place in safety. The I^ower House, a stage 
and lunch station, was reached at noon. At 
this place the Coffee Creek stage overtook 
us. It was loaded with Coffee Creek boomers, 
among whom was a slender fellow who might 
have been from the effete East, with beard 
carefully trimmed a la Van Dyke, but who 
came near shattering such an idea when he 
gave his name as "Eat 'em Up Jack," a 
brother of "Eat 'em Up Jake." The boomers 



72 An Endeavorer's Working 

tried to sell us some lots in locations extremely 
favorable to something or other, but we were 
unable to see the joke, and refused either to 
bite or to buy. 

Traveling on about two miles, we found that 
the only feed we could get for our horse was in 
a Chinaman's yard. There being no one in 
sight of whom we could ask permission, we 
turned the animal loose in the Celestial's vege- 
table patch and proceeded to kindle our fire 
under his porch, which had a ground floor and 
therefore meant no danger to property. While 
we were busily engaged in domestic duties the 
Chinaman came home and was so badly fright- 
ened when he saw us that he was about to go 
away without trying to come upon his own 
premises. We convinced him that we were 
harmless, however, and when we had thawed 
him out found him a very sociable fellow. 

Then on toward El Dorado we pushed, the 
Mecca of so many in search of fickle fortune. 
As we proceeded we met an increasing number 
of disappointed ones returning from the gold 
fields, which, for them, were fields without gold. 
They were a down-hearted lot of travelers, to 
be sure, although there were a few who had 
reaped from the same harvest of disappoint- 
ment who took the ill luck good-naturedly and 
laughed as they told of their failures. After 
passing through French Gulch, another mining 



Journey Around the World 73 

camp, we began the ascent of a long and steep 
mountain and made camp that night on the 
roadside before we had reached the summit. 
Our bed was upholstered with ferns and leaves 
and there was an abundance of fuel, but the 
horse fared badly and that was almost suffer- 
ing for his guardians. 

The summit was reached next morning and 
we started down the steep grade toward Trinity 
County. At Trinity Creek, the town nearest 
Coffee Creek, there was great excitement, but 
it was not caused by the gold fever. The resi- 
dents were more interested in a horse-race that 
was about to take place than they were in all 
the rich ore under ground. We walked to 
Coffee Creek, a distance of about three miles, 
and went on up the canyon to the mine of 
Graves Brothers. There was a hole in the side 
of a hill, about fifteen feet deep, and at the end 
of the "drift" was a crevice running diagonally 
across it. From this crevice the gold nugget, 
weighing the equivalent of ^42,000, is supposed 
to have come. 

Saturday, Aug. 28, we set out to cross what 
we had heard were the roughest mountains in 
California, reaching Scott's Mountain just after 
the dinner hour. The road over this elevation 
is indeed eligible to a medal for roughness. 
For stretches of half a mile there is not a par- 
ticle of earth to be seen, nothing but naked. 



74 An Endeavorer's Working 

.uneven, weather-worn rocks. Many of them 
are so broken and thrown about that good prog- 
ress is impossible, and the trip of six miles re- 
quired a good half day. The descent was made 
in the dark, and we reached a ranch where 
feed was procured in the form of Buzz's first 
meal of oats. We remained at this ranch all 
day Sunday, and although travel-stained as we 
were, we wore colored shirts and clothes not 
adapted to strict parlor wear according to the 
common acceptation of the term, we were as 
well treated as though we had been faultlessly 
attired. This was an evidence of true hospi- 
tality and one of the bright spots in that West- 
ern journey. Monday we found Scott's Valley, 
a narrow strip, well populated with prosperous 
farmers who looked like the farmers of States 
farther east. Their crops also are similar. At 
one place there was a social event known as a 
barn-raising, and the new barns that dotted the 
valley here and there told us that there had 
been many previous events of a similar kind. 
In the north end of the valley are the ruins of 
an old log fort that was used for protection 
from the Indians in early days. Near this has 
sprung up a town called Fort Jones. 

Yreka is an old mining town, and had been 
without a railroad until a short time before our 
visit, when a spur was run up from the South- 
ern Pacific at Montague. But the good days of 



Journey Around the World 75 

this, like many other California mining and 
freighting towns, are of the past, and the fnture 
seems to have little prosperity in store. That 
night we camped near Ager's ranch, a few 
miles from the Oregon line. 

By this time our horse was beginning to 
show signs of extreme weariness, and it was 
necessary for us to nurse the faithful animal 
by driving him carefully. Passing through 
Klamathou Station, on the Klamath river, and 
through Hornbrook, we traveled over a barren 
country without incident to break the monot- 
ony, until we came to a small ranch house. 
The old woman who came to the door to answer 
our inquiries was smoking a cob pipe. She 
told us it was but two miles to the Oregon line. 
We were very anxious to see another woman 
before leaving California, for we did not want 
to be compelled to say that the last woman we 
saw in the State was engaged in deriving com- 
fort from an old pipe. Happily we did see 
another before crossing the line, and she did 
not have her pipe in her mouth at the time. 



76 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER IV 
Into the Great Northwest 

As WE neared the line we looked back and 
saw Mount Shasta raising her snow-clad 
head toward the clouds in a way that spoke 
majesty and grandeur and inspired the observer 
with a feeling akin to awe. At the line we 
stopped a short time and then, taking a fond 
and farewell look at California, went on to our 
first camping place in Oregon. A notable item 
in the bill of fare for that night was stewed 
pears. It goes to show that variety may form 
a part of the menu of even a tourist, who has 
to depend upon his own ingenuity for daily 
subsistence. The next day we crossed the 
Siskyon Mountains, through the Near Creek 
Valley, through Ashland and several small 
towns into the Rogue River Valley. The value 
of this entire valley has been almost destroyed, 
for the coming of the railroad did away with 
the teaming industry. The valley, further- 
more, was a great disappointment to two who 
had heard a great deal about it. Everything 
in it is in a run-down and dilapidated condition. 
There are men and women there who have 
never been out of the valley, and a great many 
times, when we asked strapping boys about the 



Journey Around the World '^'j 

distance to the next town or for some other 
information, their answer would be, "I don't 
know." Crossing the Rogue River, a swift, 
narrow stream, held in on each side by rocky 
banks, and skirted by firs and thick underbush, 
_we entered Gold Hill, a small mining camp. 

The dust fairly boiled up around us as we 
traveled on the next day. The Oregonians are 
called "Web Feet," and with dust in some 
places and mud in others, it is not difficult to 
understand how they got the name, for web 
feet are almost necessary to navigation in such 
a country. Grant's Pass, at the foot of Rogue 
River Valley, is the county seat of Josephine 
County. As we drove up to the watering place 
a man approached us and asked whether we 
would like to work in the hop fields. We 
answered in the affirmative. After the dinner 
hour, spent in our own camp, we purchased 
supplies and drove about seven miles to his 
place. There we joined other hop-pickers, in a 
thicket of sycamore saplings with a tall oak 
standing guard here and there. The next day 
being Sunday we were duly proper in our con- 
duct, and at 3 o'clock in the afternoon went to 
a platform which had been built for dances and 
engaged in a song service. Then one of the 
hop-pickers, w^ho had been a preacher, delivered 
a vigorous sermon that was just the sort, in its 
simple earnestness and emphatic exhortation, 



78 An Endeavorer's Working 

that people like the hop-pickers need. 

Early Monday morning, we secured our pick- 
ing boxes and went into the field. The vines 
were still covered with dew and we were the 
first ones on the ground. In a short time the 
field was a busy place, for the laughing, happy 
crowd of laborers attacked the tall vines, cling- 
ing to their tall poles and with their dense 
foliage making the field look like a miniature 
forest. Men, women and children were engaged 
in the work. Some were singing, others were 
swearing; some were polite, others were rude 
and unpleasant. The experience was a valuable 
one. There is a school for the study of the 
diversity of human nature, even in an Oregon 
hop-field. 

The hop grows in a very sandy river bottom. 
In the winter the ground is flooded and new 
earth is washed in to fill the low places, the 
vines having been cut down in the fall. When 
the rains are over and the river subsides, the 
tender shoots soon appear, and after being 
"suckered," thinned and trained upon poles, 
trellises, or trolley wires, as they are called, 
are ready for nature's process of making the 
vine. The plant grows to a height of about 
ten feet, and then begins to throw out runners. 
These are covered with leaves and hops, the 
vine growing and maturing until it reaches a 
height of twenty feet or more. The runners. 



Journey Around the World 79 

or arms, finally bunch up at the top of the pole, 
or the wires and there all the hops are found in 
a convenient group. By the time the picking 
is done the stems are barren, save for a few 
dead and dying leaves. 

In picking, each picker, or more frequently 
every two pickers, takes a row. The pole- 
pullers then draw the long stakes from the 
ground and the bunches of hops are laid down. 
A picker gets on each side of the prostrate vine, 
props the foliage to an easy height, and begins 
to strip off hops and leaves into a large box. 
When this is full its contents are emptied into 
a large sack, which is weighed by the pole- 
pullers. The picker is then given credit for 
the amount. We picked by the hundred 
weight, and had to get into the field before 
5 o'clock in the morning, working until noon. 
Then we would rush to camp, start a fire under 
a pot of beans, make a cup of coffee, and after 
eating a hurried meal rush back to the field and 
to work again. After such strenuous efforts, 
laboring until sunset, we were just able to pick 
one hundred pounds of hops each. Each sack 
is numbered and each picker has a number. 
When the hops go to the dryer and are dumped 
out on a large floor, it can be told what kind of 
work one has been doing. If there are too 
many leaves and stems in the sack, the careless 



8o An Endeavorer's Working 

employe is told to pick his hops a "little 
cleaner. ' ' 

The dryer is a house built expressly for that 
purpose. After seeing one it is not difficult to 
tell them from a great distance. The walls are 
generally made of wood and the first floor is the 
ground. Then there are the furnaces, which 
range in number according to the dimensions 
of the drying-house. On one side is a wagon 
platform built close to the crude structure, and 
running up to a second story window, where 
the hops are taken in when they come from the 
fields. The hops are dumped upon this floor, 
which generally consists of a heavy netting 
covered with coarse cloth. After the hops have 
been exposed to the heat for a few hours they 
are bleached. They are then raked out of the 
furnaces and other hops take their place. 

As a rule the hop pickers are of the ignorant 
class who travel around finding odd jobs of 
labor wherever they can. They manage to get 
to the hop fields at the proper season and, 
with the help of the entire family, manage to 
earn a few cents each day, the word "few" 
being advisedly used in this connection. While 
we were among them, the pickers, not for our 
benefit at all, had a dance twice a week, on a 
platform constructed of rough boards in the 
open air. A huge bonfire is a regular form of 
evening entertainment for the hop-pickers. 



Journey Around the World 8i 

The merry laborers pile the wood and brush 
hiofh, and as the blaze crackles and sends out 
light and agreeable warmth the pickers gather 
around and have a sort of amateur show that 
calls out something meritorious every once in a 
while. The hop pickers-are a jolly lot. In 
fact, the work is conducive to pleasure. It is a 
healthful occupation and, for the tastes of those 
who are satisfied to engage in it, is remunera- 
tive enough. 

On Saturday, Sept. ii, we "settled up" 
with our employer and bade good-bye to the 
hop-pickers, starting back over the dusty, 
seven-mile road to Grant's Pass, where we had 
left the road leading north. We left there the 
following morning, journeying up through the 
mountains until late in the afternoon and mak- 
ing camp on Wolf Creek. That night we slept 
under a wagon shed annex to a feed barn, 
where we had housed the horse. Wolf Creek is 
quite a center for the fuel industry. The rail- 
roads in this part of the country use wood in 
their engines, and a great many men make a 
living cutting and hauling the wood and cord- 
ing it up along the railroad tracks, so that a 
train can stop every few miles and take on a 
fresh supply, just as they stop in other parts of 
the country and replenish the supply of water 
in the tanks. That afternoon we beheld two 
beautiful sights which filled us with reverence 



82 An Endeavorer's Working 

for nature's work. One was a forest of fir trees, 
which apparently had never been harmed by 
the hand of man save where a road had been 
made between the trees. The trunks of these 
noble things of the forest looked like pillars in 
a great cathedral. Further on we came to an- 
other forest, but this one was dead. Some of 
the barren trunks were still standing, others 
had fallen into various positions, v^^hile still 
others were uprooted and burned. Not a tree 
was standing alive, and the picture reminded 
one of what the "Valley of the Shadow of 
Death" might be. 

During the day we passed through one or 
two small towns on the Cow River, and toward 
evening reached Roseburg, the county seat. 
This is a town not uninviting, but the same 
cannot be said of Winchester, about five miles 
farther on, where nearly everything seemed 
to be displaying a "For Rent" sign. There 
was one occupied house in which a railroad 
section hand lived. After a comfortable night 
in camp we went on across the hills until we 
came to a town called Drain, where there was 
an unpleasant experience on account of bad 
roads. Cottage Grove is a little place at the 
head of the Willamette Valley. Leaving that 
place we were relieved to find that we were in 
a valley of considerable extent, for we had 
grown exceedingly tired of mountain travel. 



Journey Around the World 83 

Ever since leaving Redding, Cal., we had been 
in the mountains, a distance of five hundred 
miles. The trip had taken just one month. 

As we journeyed on down the valley we no- 
ticed that it widened perceptibly. This con- 
tinued until finally the mountains could only be 
seen dimly on either side. The products, also, 
began to change, for while in the southern end 
of the valley grains are raised almost exclu- 
sively, in the upper end the crops are prunes 
and other fruits. The timidity and bashfulness 
of the natives also began to vanish. Farther 
south it had been very noticeable that the 
young women were backward, but in the section 
in which we were now traveling the fair ones 
were quite the opposite, and frequently "joked" 
us for wood-choppers and "greenies" as they 
stood in the doors of their homes. One day, as 
we were jogging slowly past a big farmhouse 
on the left side of the main road, we saw five 
young women standing on the front porch. An 
old woman was sitting in a rocking-chair. The 
girls made an effort to embarass us "poor wood- 
choppers," and one, more bold than the rest, 
shouted, "Hello, sweethearts." My compan- 
ion, in perfect imitation of a calliope, began to 
hoot the tune of "The Girl I Left Behind Me," 
and the girls, quite outdone, ran into the house, 
while the old lady bent double in a fit of laugh- 
ter at their expense. 



84 An Endeavorer's Working 

We drove througli Eugene, a town of about 
3,000 population, where is located the State 
University of Oregon. Crossing the Willa- 
mette River, we made camp between Junction 
City and Harrisburg and spent Sunday there, 
in the afternoon attending a Sunday-school 
that was so largely made up of girls that the 
conclusion of an absolute lack of boys in that 
neighborhood was almost justified. That night 
we attended a Christian Endeavor that was 
under the management, contrary to the rule, 
of men and women well along in years, while 
the few young women who attended found seats 
in the rear and occupied the time in giggling. 

The next morning, bright and early, we were 
on our way to Salem. The country through 
which we were then passing was not very well 
improved, but the products, the people and the 
topography of the country were quite similar 
to those of the Middle Western states. Differ- 
ing from the States, however, the prune is ex- 
tensively cultivated here, this valley being 
noted for crops of that variety. Although the 
prunes are larger than those raised in Califor- 
nia, they have not the same rich taste, are not 
so sweet and have a skin that is tough and tart. 
They are dried and cured here differently from 
the method employed in California, for they 
have to use evaporators, of which one can be 
found in almost every town. The evaporator 



Journey Around the World 85 

frequently is owned by an association of farm- 
ers, and in otiier cases by individuals or com- 
panies. 

We continued on up the valley, and after 
getting into a slightly hilly country, found that 
the ranches were larger, the people larger and 
the houses of increased dimensions over the 
ones we had been seeing. Shortly after dinner 
one day we came in sight of Salem, the capital 
of Oregon. The dome of the capitol is bronzed, 
and from the place where we stood when we 
had the first good bird's-eye view of the city, 
it showed up exceedingly well. This building, 
the state penitentiary and the state insane 
asylum were visited, and then our path led 
from the town and we were on the road toward 
another destination. A few miles out of Salem 
we came to a large basin which, we were told, 
had not long ago been a big lake, but which, 
by drainage under state and private enterprise, 
had been converted into a very productive and 
prosperous country. A continuation of the 
journey led to hilly, timbered country, where 
the hard work of clearing away great trees was 
just being begun by many ambitious farmers 
who hoped to find profit in a section almost en- 
tirely undeveloped. There is a plank road from 
a point several miles into Oregon City. This 
place is built upon terraces on both sides of the 
Willamette River. There is a fall in the river 



86 An Endeavorer's Working 

here, and it is from that fall that Portland gets 
its power. Driving to Milwaukee, a small 
town, we camped for dinner and obtained the 
first view of Mount Hood, rising in grandeur 
above the other mountains and enough of it 
covered with snow to give it a sublime, majestic 
appearance. In the afternoon of September 23 
we drove into East Portland and, crossing a 
bridge, were in Portland. We visited the 
Oregoniau building, a fine structure of onyx, 
marble and bronze; the plant of the Portland 
Cracker Company, where every labor-saving 
and time-economizing device known to modern 
baking is employed; the city hall, Chinatown, 
the water front and the First Christian Church, 
following the hour after prayer-meeting by an- 
other walk to the water's edge, where we 
watched the enchanting lights along the shore 
for some time before going to bed. 

We left Portland the next day, driving down 
the left shore of the Willamette River, and by 
night reached a small town called Scapoose. 
Off to the northeast there was Mount St. 
Helena, looming up above the cascades on the 
Washington side. The following morning we 
took the steamer "Northwest" for Washington, 
across the Columbia. Down the Willamette 
"slough" we traveled — it is nothing more than 
a slough, having a fall of only one and a half 
inches from Portland to its mouth. We jour- 



Journey Around the World 87 

neyed to its moutli, a distance of eighteen 
miles, coming out on the Columbia River. On 
both sides were fine, wooded hills, which lent a 
picturesque finish to a scene that easily awoke 
imaginary notions of the I^ewis and Clark ex- 
pedition which had passed that very way. The 
boat made a landing at Kalma, the point in 
Washington where the railroad trains are fer- 
ried over to the Oregon side. Just as the boat 
was making the last landing, at Ranier, a well 
dressed young man, intoxicated, walked onto 
and off from the wharf, falling into the water 
and at the same time plunging into eternity. 
Not an effort was made to save him. The boat 
struck his hat and pipe and pushed them aside. 
A few bubbles marked the spot where the strug- 
gling body was, and yet the craft pushed away 
from the landing, her occupants paying as lit- 
tle attention to the mishap as though a dumb 
and worthless animal had gone to its death. 
The boat went across to Washington and up 
the Cow City River. About five miles up the 
river we landed at a little station called Free- 
port and drove five miles into the hill country 
for the night's camp. After enjoying the hos- 
pitality of a farmer and his family, we renewed 
the journey Monday over the corduroy road. 
This is called the Military road. It was built 
by Grant while he was commander of the troops 
in the Northwest and was used for transporting 



88 An Endeavorer's Working 

soldiers and supplies from Portland to Puget 
Sound. In making this highway no grading 
was done, but the trees were merely cut out of 
the way, divided into the proper lengths, split 
and laid with the round side up in order that 
the horses might have good foothold. Such 
roads have become badly worn and are not con- 
ducive to rapid or comfortable travel. 

This is a timber country and innumerable 
logging camps were passed. From four to six 
teams of big oxen are used to haul the logs 
from the canyons to the chutes, or "skid" 
roads, from which they are sent sliding down 
to the creeks or sloughs which lead to the Cow 
City River, upon which many saw mills are sit- 
uated. In this section we were compelled to 
make our first "dry" camp, being nothing more 
or less than a camp without water. That 
blessing was so scarce that we had none of it 
at all, although we had been traveling through 
mud and rain all day, and had to sleep upon 
grass that was thoroughly wet. The novel way 
we had of washing faces, hands and dishes 
next morning was by shaking them through 
the wet grass and getting from the moist blades 
the drops of water that clung to the green 
blades. 

Over a good plank-road and through various 
little towns we traveled from that stage, finally 
coming- to a well in a thicket of fir trees. 



Journey Around the World 89 

Mount Ranier is an impressive siglit, with its 
snow line extending below the peaks of the 
range where there was no snow at all. Across 
the prairie, through small settlements, we con- 
tinued to Tacoma, a big shipping-point for 
lumber and a prosperous city. It is at the south 
end of the Sound, about forty miles from Seat- 
tle, which place we reached October i. There 
we sold our faithful horse, which had brought 
us over 2,560 miles of some of the roughest 
mountain country in the world, and had never 
refused for one moment to do the duty that was 
imposed upon him. I had purchased "Buzz" 
for $15, and he brought the same amount when 
disposed of to the kind farmer who promised 
to take good care of him. 

Seattle at this time was in the midst of the 
Klondike excitement. The town was full of 
strangers, many of them looking for employ- 
ment, or for a chance to go to the gold country 
about which such fabulous tales v/ere being 
told. Every line of business was overcrowded, 
and there were not places for all who wanted 
an opportunity to labor. At the end of a week 
we left Seattle and went to Everett, a town oi 
about 5,000, thirty miles away. There we 
both found employment, I in a barber-shop and 
Johnson in a saw mill. For about three weeks 
after we arrived there, the weather was all that 
could be desired. The sun rose behind the 



90 An Endeavorer's Working 

Cascades, between Mount Ranier on the south 
and Mount Baker on the north, and its rays 
were reflected from the dazzling, snow-capped 
peaks of these giants of the range. The 
breezes from the Sound, the sunset, the brac- 
ing air, all combined to make a day that could 
not be more delightful in a dream, but it was 
all to change. There followed weeks when 
the face of the sun was not seen. Rain fell 
day after day, freshets washed railroad tracks 
away and property was destroyed. Such con- 
ditions are naturally beneficial to the growth 
of trees, and this is therefore a great lumber 
country. The saw mill industry is immense 
and the work is attended by constant danger. 
Accidents are so common that the simple loss 
of a finger is scarcely noticed by the victim's 
fellows. While Johnson was working in the 
mill, the man who was on the log "carriage" 
with him split the knuckle of a finger, and 
about all the sympathy he received was an 
order from the boss to go to the office and get 
his pay and to return to work if he came around 
all right. 

The Washington cedar shingles, famous al- 
most world-wide, are made in this section of the 
country. At Fort Blakley the largest saw mill 
in the world is located. It turns out something 
more than 200,000 feet of lumber every day. 
There is another industry at Everett, a paper 



Journey Around the World 91 

mill, the material to be used in manufacture 
also coming from the forest. There is also a 
smelter, the largest in the world, the material 
upon which it works coming from the same 
mountains which give the boundless stretches 
of trees for paper and building material. 



92 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER V 
From Seattle Across the Continent 

'Y first year's experience on these travels 
closed at Everett, and on January 24 we 
returned to Seattle, where we both secured em- 
ployment in the Broadway grocery store. That 
winter we saved enough to purchase a team of 
wild horses, and on the loth of May began the 
task of breaking them. Having mastered the 
animals, we prepared the camping outfit for a 
resumption of the long trip that was before us. 
The appreciation of our fellowship with the 
First Christian Church was expressed in a fare- 
well reception given us by the church. The 
equipment this time included the camera and 
photographing outfit of B. B. Titsworth, who 
had made arrangements to be our traveling 
companion and "official" photographer. Be- 
fore noon we traveled about ten miles, and 
made our first camp among the wild flowers. 
That night we camped at the home of John 
Gove, to whom we had sold old "Buzz" the 
year before. The horse was fat and showed no 
trace of the hardships to which he had been 
subjected while we were his owners. Visiting 
the Puyalup Indian reservation the next morn- 
ing, and then passing through Tacoma again, 



Journey Around the World 93 

we crossed the hills and finally came to the 
encampment of State troops at Camp Rogers. 
Saturday night of that week we went to bed in 
a chicken coop which we found on the place 
where we made camp, a hard and unpleasant 
experience for the photographer, who was in 
all reality a "tenderfoot." 

Arriving at Portland, we boarded the steamer 
"Regulator." When we had proceeded for 
two or three hours, we came to the first grand 
scenery of a series of Columbia river pictures 
that are beyond the powers of description. 
This was the Palisades — great, high cliffs of 
rocks, almost perpendicular, extending from 
the water's edge to a height of several hundred 
feet. The ride was then a succession of entranc- 
ing views, with the waterfalls, cascades, 
cataracts and canyons and green trees to crown 
it all. In the stream, too, were evidences of 
the salmon. fishing industry, for which the Co- 
lumbia is famous. 

The boat reached Dalles at about 8 o'clock, 
and there we remained two days, awaiting 
various repairs. Traveling on again, we en- 
countered a severe wind and sand storm which 
made progress exceedingly difficult and dis- 
agreeable. On and on for several days, across 
a dreary expanse of desert we went, with noth- 
ing in sight but sage brush and long, rolling 
hills. The water, which was very scarce, was 



94 An Endeavorer's Working 

full of alkali. The horses were troubled with 
the "scratches," and our hands and faces be- 
eame so badly chapped that every time we 
laughed the dry skin would crack. But 
although our faces did hurt, we had many a 
hearty laugh, and even under such painful cir- 
cumstances endeavored to look upon the bright 
side of our experiences. The desert bore upon 
its bleak breast many dry and bleached bones, 
the remains of living things that had starved to 
death on those lonely sweeps of lifeless alkali 
and sand. When we reached the John Day 
river the ferryman had the audacity to ask one 
dollar for carrying us across a stream one hun- 
dred feet wide. As he claimed to own both 
sides of the river, and the stream itself, we were 
not in a position to dispute the charge, glad 
only of the fact that he did not lay claim to the 
possession of the rest of the earth. At the 
Junction House we found no one at home, and 
so took peaceable possession. The proprietor 
returned after a while and took another dollar 
away from us for horse-feed. Then we pushed 
on twelve miles through heavy sand, coming to 
a cheap railroad. Camping that night in the 
yard of a farmer who had a blacksmith shop on 
his place, we held a song service in the shop 
for the entertainment of those people who, in 
that lonely region, rarely hear the tuneful Gos- 
pel songs with which we three were all familiar. 



Journey Around the World 95 

Over the desert of sand and cacti we traveled 
on a couple of days longer, at length coming to 
the once celebrated Prospect ranch. Twelve 
years before that time the company that owns 
the ranch had twelve hundred acres planted in 
wheat and the yield was thirty-two bushels to 
the acre. Since that time there has not been 
enough wheat raised there to feed half a 
dozen teams of horses. The great barns, fine 
house and miles of fence all bear evidence of 
desolation and decay, the cause of this condi- 
tion being the total lack of rain during the 
entire twelve years. The wind blows con- 
stantly and the soil, being of a loose nature, 
shifts to such an extent that the topography of 
the country is constantly changed. 

The monotony of these stretches was soon 
relieved, and on May 25th, after passing fields 
of waving grain that were good for the eye, we 
entered the pretty little city of Walla Walla, 
Washington. Here we sought information 
concerning the best route to the Yellowstone 
National Park, which was the next place of 
importance on our itinerary. We were told 
that the only advisable way was through 
La Grande, Baker City, Ore., and Boise City, 
Idaho. Leaving Walla Walla on May 26th, we 
were compelled to retrace our steps a distance 
of fifty miles, we thought, but on the way were 
given information that enabled us to save about 



96 An Endeavorer's Working 

thirty miles. On the productive farm of Louis 
Bergevin, in the old Umatilla Indian reserva- 
tion, we remained about a week, the rains 
having made the roads almost impassable. 
The kindness of this genial Frenchman, who 
took us in and treated us as royally as though 
we had been at home, can not soon be forgotten 
by the three who enjoyed his hospitable treat- 
ment. In order to save about thirty miles we 
forded the Umatilla river, which had been 
swollen by the recent floods., at a point where 
several persons had been drowned. At the top 
of a steep hill that taxed the strength of the 
team for two hours and a half, we found our- 
selves in the Blue Mountains. Then followed 
an experience in driving, over hills that were 
almost straight up, that taxed the enduring 
qualities of horses and men, till finally we came 
in sight of a patch of snow that looked to be 
quite near. We were deceived in the distance, 
as one can easily be in the mountains; but 
reached the snow in due time and gathered a 
choice collection of cold, round balls. 

We reached Baker City in time for Sunday, 
June 9th. Leaving there the next morning, 
passing many rural election booths where the 
citizens of Oregon were exercising their right 
of suffrage that, day and crossing the crooked 
Snake River into Idaho, the next day we came 
to a land beautiful and productive. Alfalfa is 



Journey Around the World 97 

a good crop in this country and the soil seems 
adapted to a generous yield of various other 
thinofs that grow. A few miles farther on we 
came to a strip of sage brush and then we were 
in the Boise River Valley. Leaving the at- 
tractive town of Boise City we struck out across 
a sage brush plain, where human beings are 
scarce, and water is almost unknown. Al- 
though we came to a grass plot, the horses 
wanted none of it. Their pleading faces 
showed that water was what they most de- 
sired, but as we were helpless and thirsty our- 
selves w^e could only renew the journey in a 
seemingly hopeless search. Coming to a pile 
of stones that seemed to surround the oasis we 
were looking for, we found only a stagnant 
pool, where we partially quenched our burning 
thirst. 

With renewed energy we pushed on and by 
four o'clock in the afternoon came to the edge 
of a canyon which, in reality, was quite an ex- 
tensive little valley, with a delicious creek 
sparkling through it, a farmhouse near by, 
well filled barns and a sweep of productive 
acres. It is not an exaggeration to say that 
our hearts leaped for joy, and no one can un- 
derstand the sensation who has not known the 
punishment of thirst. 

During our travels next day we came to a 
little basin in the hills, where there were out- 
7 



98 An Endeavorer's Working 

croppings of a white rock, some of the project- 
ing stones rising to a height of fifty and seven- 
ty-five feet and arranged by nature in fantastic 
shapes. One of them resembles a huge can- 
non, mounted and in position to guard the 
entrance to the canyon. 

High Prairie has an area of about nine 
miles and is 6,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. It is truly a prairie, for there is not a bit 
of brush, a shrub or a tree on its even surface, 
and even the grass is very scarce. Having 
crossed it, we came to the big Camas Prairie, 
the greatest live stock range of the Northwest. 
There were hundreds of cattle, horses and 
sheep, grazing on the productive range. Hav- 
ing reached the Malade, a creek where we had 
heard fish abounded, we took the tackle from 
its place in the outfit and proceeded to cast for 
the elusive trout. The tales of fishermen's 
success did not apply to us, for the result of the 
sport was the capture of one fish thirteen 
inches long. 

The luck was better on June i6th, for that 
day we caught a fine *'mess" of speckled 
mountain trout, in the Little Wood River, and 
that night had a meal to delight the camper's 
appetite, made up of fish, hot biscuits that had 
been made in a patent oil-can reflector, black 
coffee and stewed fruit. In the famous Fish 
Creek, which we had heard was the best stream 



Journey Around the World 99 

in the country for the sport of angling, we 
caught only enough for one meal. We were 
beginning to know that everything was not in 
the reputation. 

On the following day we came to the edge of 
one of the immense lava beds of Idaho. Cross- 
ing several small streams which have their ori- 
gin in the Saw Tooth Mountains and run to the 
boundaries of the lava beds, we saw the little 
soda lakes which are thus formed. In the 
burned and melted rocks of these beds there are 
great crevices. In some places the surface of 
the lava has the appearance of water running 
over rapids, while in others it is piled high as 
in ocean waves. Then there are other forma- 
tions that resemble great booms of logs, the 
burnt rocks filled with air holes and lying in 
flakes, giving a close likeness to the bark of 
pine trees. The air bubbles have raised edges, 
like the bubbles made in boiling mush. This 
is the largest lava bed in the world, being 
200 miles long and from seventy to eighty 
miles in width. It is, thought to be the work 
of two or three ages, as indicated by the differ- 
ence in position and substance of the lava. 
The next stage of the journey was far from 
pleasant, for water, in the bed of the little lyost 
River, was twenty-five miles away. We made 
camp at the "sinks," where the Big and Little 

Lost Rivers unite their waters and then flow 
LafC. 



loo An Endeavorer's Working 

under the lava beds to a destination that no 
man has discovered. 

At Dubois, which we reached June 22d, we 
paid for various repairs and purchased supplies 
for four weeks, leaving the town while a thun- 
der storm threatened and heading for the Yel- 
lowstone. As we proceeded the storm broke 
and around us raged in fury until we were 
thoroughly soaked. Camp was made in a de- 
sirable spot and after we had rolled in the blan- 
kets under a stretched canvas there was a 
renewal of nature's anger, and the rain fell in 
torrents around our very heads, causing little 
discomfort under our fortified conditions. 

By this time we were getting gradually into 
the heart of the Rocky Mountains, but the in- 
cline was so gradual that we were barely aware 
of the ascent. On one side was a range of 
snow-capped peaks, the summit of the moun- 
tains, as well as the State line of Idaho and 
Montana and the Continental Divide. Shot- 
Gun Creek, which is in this section, received 
its name in a peculiar way. There was a man 
who borrowed a shot-gun from another in order 
that he might go and fight the Indians. After 
the battle the man who had borrowed wanted 
the owner to take the gun home with him. 
This the owner, an evident stickler for the pro- 
prieties of the wild West, refused to do. The 
stubborn borrower leaned the weapon against a 



Journey Around the World loi 

tree and there the equally stubborn owner per- 
mitted it to remain. When the borrower next 
passed that way he saw an old trapper using 
the gun for a "fire rod," with the barrel 
stretched between forked sticks and with his 
cooking pots suspended from it over the blaze. 
From this incident both the creek and the val- 
ley took the name of Shot-Gun. 



I02 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER VI 

Thk Yellowstone National Park 

SUNDAY, June 26, having reached the summit 
of the Rockies at a point but a few miles 
from the Montana line, we started for the 
national park, reaching Riverside, the location 
of the first military guard, the following morn- 
ing. Here we registered, receiving a copy of 
the rules and regulations, and satisfied the 
guard that we could not do harm so far as fire- 
arms, traps, etc., were concerned. In the 
great park were marks of civilization and the 
work of man. The roads were graded, the 
streams well bridged, and at the end of every 
mile there was a post showing distances and 
elevation. Driving up the Madison River we 
came to the stage road that day, and at noon 
were well on our way toward the Norris Geyser 
Basin. Here there is the Black Growler, a 
large steam ejector which deposits a white, 
pulpy precipitate upon everything within three 
hundred yards, killing the trees and shrubs and 
giving to them a most ghostly appearance. 
Past the Minute Man and the Monarch, other 
geysers, we drove across Gibbon Meadow, down 
the canyon and to Fire Hole River. After we 



Journey Around the World 103 

had been in camp near the Fountain Hotel for 
about two hours, the Fountain Geyser began to 
play. It is rather true to its name, for it sends 
up a large number of streams from jets, togeth- 
er with dense quantities of steam. The hotel 
was of service to me, for there I did work in 
my line of trade amounting to ^5.00, at the 
rate of 25 cents for each shave. 

The next day we walked to the Great Foun- 
tain Basin, where we saw the White Dome, 
which resembles a white rock, but which in 
raelity is a cone formed by the deposits from a 
small geyser which plays irregularly. The 
crater of the Great Fountain Basin shows a 
basin within a basin, each being surrounded by 
terraces of deposits, the whole having a very 
pretty effect. The Mushroom Pool shows be- 
neath its surface innumerable small, soft, brown 
deposits, looking like fungus growths and of 
such a formation that the name mushroom has 
been applied to the pool of which they are the 
feature. 

The Five Sisters are only five pools in an at- 
tractive group, one of which is truly grand. 
The sides of the pool are of ribbed clusters, 
hanging from each other in regular rows until 
the depth of the water shuts them from view. 
They seem to be soft as velvet and of a color 
similar to turquoise blue. Farther up is Buf- 
falo Pool, in which can be seen some of the 



I04 An Endeavorer's Working 

rib-bones and legs of a "critter." In 1869 tbe 
Folsom and Clark surveying party saw the en- 
tire skeleton of a buffalo intbe pool, and from 
that fact the placid little body of water gets its 
name. 

The Fire Hole Pool is a wonderful sight, for 
about every five seconds there is a noise like 
that of the "thud" of a hydraulic pump, fol- 
lowed by the appearance of a large blue ball, 
as of fire, which rises to the surface and bursts, 
throwing the water three feet above the pool. 
Fire Hole Lake is about one hundred by two 
hundred feet in extent. In the north end of it 
there is a crater hole from which there issues 
a constant flame. 

Our first swim in the Natural Swimming Pool 
was a delight. The bottom and sides of the 
j3ool are of delicate blue and white tints, re- 
sembling the possible decorations of a porcelain 
bath tub. The air is so light, at that elevation 
of 7,300 feet, that swimming is exceedingly 
difficult. Just after the plunge we heard the 
noise of a rush of steam and knew that the 
Great Fountain was about to go into convul- 
sions. A rumbling sound away down in the 
earth was followed by a great volume of water 
and steam, which were shot upward a distance 
of at least a hundred feet. This was followed 
by several other spurts at short intervals. Then 
the geyser settled down to real business, send- 



Journey Around the World 105 

ing fortii a column of water every few seconds 
from a dozen different jets. After the geyser 
laad calmed, we went to its edge and looked 
down the throat of the fierce phenomenon. We 
could see for a distance of thirty feet, behold- 
ing a seething, boiling, bubbling mass of water, 
followed every little while by a feeble spout. 

But of the marvelous things to be seen in the 
National Reservation, the Excelsior Geyser was 
once the wonder of wonders. It has lost its 
powers, however, perhaps only temporarily, as 
it has been extinct for several years. It has a 
large crater, and is surrounded by high cliffs. 
The water in the crater is constantly steaming, 
and when the wind is just the right direction, 
a distinct view gives it a violet hue. 

Prismatic I^ake is one of the largest of the 
pools. Around its edge is a streak of red- 
dish brown, which is shaded gradually until at 
its center the pool has a color of deep blue. 
Turquoise Spring has the matchless color of its 
name and lies, wonderfully beautiful and ap- 
parently undisturbed, at the foot of old Excel- 
sior. Half an acre of ground, covered with the 
sand and geyser deposit from Excelsior, is 
called Hell's Half Acre. 

On Friday, July ist, when we awoke, snow 
was on the ground. The ground was quite 
warm, however, and the white coating did not 
stay long. A visit to the Sapphire Pool showed 



io6 An Endeavorer's Working 

it to be surrounded by coral formations called 
"biscuits." The water has the color of sap- 
phire, and as it constantly rises, overflows its 
basin and then sinks again, it has an ever- 
changing color that is indeed beautiful. Here 
also are the Cauliflower, the Avoca, the Jewel 
and the Artemesia geysers, which play at inter- 
vals and to varying heights. Then there is the 
Silver Globe Spring, the sides and bottom of 
which are of a buff or cream color. From a 
small hole in the bottom of the pool there 
comes at frequent intervals a ball or globe of 
gas, which, against the background of the pool, 
looks like a ball of silver. 

In the afternoon we broke camp and started 
for the Upper Basin, passing several small gey- 
sers which were all asleep. The next day we 
saw Old Faithful play. This is a geyser that 
furnishes entertainment about every seventy 
minutes, throwing the water in almost a 
straight column nearly 150 feet in the air. 
This is the most popular of the geysers, on 
account of its dignity and the fact that it is the 
only one many tourists get to see in action. 

Sunday morning a great noise shook the 
earth. It was the Giantess, throwing a vol- 
ume of steam and boiling water to such a 
height that it seemed to extend from earth to 
sky. The Economic plays about every seven 
minutes and is economical so far as noise is con- 



w 

a. -W 

S o 

n 

■ f 
^5 



- H 
K 

■ < 

IS 

~ d 




Journey Around the World 107 

cerned, for it comes up almost silently and goes 
down again witli as little warning of its intended 
action. The Bee Hive was one we had waited 
long and anxiously to see. When it began to 
boil small spurts of water came forth. Then in 
a few minutes without a sign or signal of what 
was to happen, the water shot a straight stream 
that did not fail for about twenty minutes. 
The Riverside was also seen that day. This is 
an industrious geyser, once it is started. The 
jets are sent up with a great force that seems to 
be suddenly removed, leaving the water high 
in air to fall into the stream near by. 

July 4th was a quite "noisy" day in the park, 
but we observed it appropriately, remaining in 
camp and attending to domestic and various 
other duties. In the afternoon, however, we 
drove to the Castle, one of the largest geysers, 
noted more for the formation of its cone than 
for the display it makes. A small degree of 
imagination has to be brought into play to in- 
duce the spectator to believe that the cone has 
the appearance of an old castle. The news of 
Sampson's victory came to the park over the 
humming wires that day, and the Bee Hive 
celebrated the event by playing twice, once in 
the morning and again just after sunset. Every 
person who saw the unusual occurrence gave 
hearty cheers for the patriotic geyser. 

We had been watching the Giant all day, for 



io8 An Endeavorer's Working 

it was spewing and making a great ado, as 
though ready to excel its own previous efforts. 
It had not played when 8 o'clock came, how- 
ever, and so we decided to hitch the horses 
and move our bed near the geyser, in order 
that we might be conveniently near when the 
display began. Hardly had we prepared things 
for camp when some one shouted, "The Giant! 
The Giant!" Driving a fast mile and passing 
many pedestrians bound for the same place, we 
came within sight of the majestic geyser, the 
largest in the Basin. It throws a stream 250 
feet high, and did itself full justice this time. 
A mass of steam and water was followed by a 
steady, straight column. Presently the moon 
arose, tipping the tower of water with mellow 
light, gradually illuminating the whole and 
making a picture that those who saw can never 
forget. Then one of the tourists, to add to the 
color effect, lit a quantity of magnesium pow- 
der, which threw a red light upon the pillar of 
water. Surely this was a spectacular finish for 
the glorious Fourth, far superior in pyrotech- 
nic effect to all the fireworks the brain of man 
could devise. 



Journey Around the World 109 

CHAPTER VII 
Over the Continental Divide 

ON the morning of Jul}^ 5th, just as we were 
preparing to move camp, Old Faithful 
arose to bid us farewell and to give a parting 
salute. Two miles from the geyser beds we 
came to the Keppler Cascades, a beautiful sight 
and in charming contrast with the geysers, 
which really had become monotonous. The 
following day, driving through the forest and 
across small glades, we came to the great Con- 
tinental Divide, the summit of the Rocky 
Mountains. For a short time we were again 
on the Pacific Slope, and it seemed rather good 
to be "out West" once more, but presently we 
were back to the Atlantic slope, with its majes- 
tic sweep toward that part of the country 
which knew the hand of civilization long be- 
fore the white man had crossed the trails that 
Indians had worn down. 

After an experience of exceedingly successful 
trout fishing, we went on to the Natural Bridge, 
a ledge of solid rock which lays across a small 
canyon. The water has worn a hole through 
the rock and it therefore has the shape of an 
arch or bridge. In the center of the bridge. 



no An Endeavorer's Working 

growing out of the solid rock, apparently, there 
is a small fir tree, seemingly as healthy as 
though rich earth were nursing its roots. On 
Friday we came to the Mud Volcano, similar to 
other geysers in principle, but vastly different 
in substance, for instead of giving forth pure 
water it sends up a nasty, oily mud, being for- 
ever unable to clear its throat and rid itself of 
the unpleasant mass. 

The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone are in- 
describably grand. The water comes from a 
calm, placid river and gradually increases in 
speed until it reaches a narrow channel in the 
rocks. Here it is hurled along violently, 
rushes through a narrow gorge, is thrown to 
the rocks below, whipped into spray and dashed 
into foam, all the while giving forth a roar that 
seems to be a note of warning to the oncoming 
waters just behind it. 

But the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is 
the climax of all that had gone before. The 
Lower Falls are naturally the gateway of the 
canyon. A large ridge, or "hog back" comes 
down to the edge of the water at the top of the 
falls, from the top of the canyon on either side. 
Beyond this the glories of the scenery open to 
view. There are natural towers, peaks and fin- 
gers that point sharply to the skies and bear 
tints of wondrous hues. None of the colors 
are positive, but they appear to prevail in well 



Journey Around the World in 

modified streaks, delicate and more beautiful 
than artist could portray. A line of buff shades 
off into a group of pinks, and these perhaps 
give place to lavender or delicate blue. Near 
the foot of the falls everything is covered with 
moss, and it all seems weather-worn. 

This fall is vastly different from the one just 
described. There is more water, but not the 
mad rush for the awful plunge. The water 
simply flows along peacefully until it reaches 
the edge of the precipice, and then deliberately 
tumbles over as though it were following a pro- 
gram that had been prepared for it and which 
it well understood. From Lookout Point there 
is a sublime view, with the distant rocks stand- 
ing up sharply, like knives, and the high peaks 
where the noble American eagles have their 
nests. 

Red Rock, standing by itself at the edge of 
the river and rising high above it, is an in- 
teresting formation and equally inspiring. It 
is of granite formation, but is coated with a red 
substance which probably is iron, but which 
resembles red clay or brick dust. The rock is 
not red all through, for when bits of it are 
broken off they are found to have the color of 
granite, with only the thin coating of ruddy 
hue. 

From Grand View another series of marvel- 
ous beauties and wonders may be seen, and the 



112 An Endeavorer's Working 

same attractions are beheld under different con- 
ditions. Before Inspiration Point is reached, 
one can see a group of pinnacles and spires. 
These have been given the name of Castle 
Ruins. 

On the road to Inspiration Point, from which 
another very fine view is obtained, there is a 
trail leading off to Mount Washburn. Near 
the road there is a large boulder, surrounded by 
small trees. The rock is about twenty by 
twenty-five feet and weighs many hundred tons. 
It is stated by geologists that this was carried 
to its present resting place by a glacier, the 
rock being left in position when the glacier 
receded. One authority says that the nearest 
point from which the boulder could have been 
taken is about forty miles distant, and there is 
no way of telling how much farther it may 
have been carried. 

One night we heard a terrible rattling about 
the camp and, upon looking out, saw a large 
cinnamon bear with his nose in our bean pot, 
which sat on a bed of ashes within six feet of 
our heads. We were forbidden by law to shoot 
at such a thing as a bear, so the only thing left 
for us to do was to shout as loudly as we could. 
We did this and instead of attacking us or hug- 
ging three sturdy campers to death, the bear 
violated all tradition and quietly sneaked away. 
Having reached the woods, he sat on his 



Journey Around the World 113 

haunches and watched us. While we were 
talking about the occurrence we heard another 
scratching noise on the opposite side of the bed, 
where we had a supply of ham, bacon and other 
eatables. L/Ooking around that side of the tent 
we saw Bruin there, just ready to strike the 
canvas a blow that would have made a great 
hole in our frail house. We shouted again and 
threw stones at the audacious creature. He 
scampered away and we were not bothered 
again for several nights. Finally he came 
around the third time. On this occasion we 
had some trout in a vessel near our heads and 
were awakened in the still watches by a sniffling 
noise. There was the bear, acquainting him- 
self with the character of the lunch box. We 
were ready for him, and he met such a shower 
of stones that he went down the hill as fast as 
his clumsy legs would let him go. 

On the morning of Thursday, July 14th, we 
left our camp in the Grand Canyon and pulled 
up the hill to Solfatara, where we found a good 
road to Norris. Passing the Wedded Trees, 
from one of which a branch grows through the 
forks of an adjoining one, thus effectually join- 
ing them, and the Virginia Cascades, which 
slide down the rocks for a distance of several 
hundred yards, we arrived at Norris. Beyond 
this station is the Devil's Frying Pan, a small 
basin having numerous small steam jets and 



114 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

springs wliicli sputter like a busy uteusil of its 
name over a liot fire. Interesting sights met 
the gaze at every turn, and at length we entered 
the Golden Gate. A group of hot springs was 
passed, the Liberty Gap, a tall rock that seems 
to be breaking through the ground like a mush- 
room, the Mammoth Hot Springs hotel. Fort 
Yellowstone, where there was the final registra- 
tion ordeal; then Eagle Rock and at last Gar- 
diner City, the north boundary of the park. 
Here we found a one-sided town indeed. There 
are a large number of saloons built right up 
against the limits of the park, although not 
encroaching the least, while on the opposite 
side of the street not a house stands. Three 
miles further on we came to Cinnabar, the 
terminus of the railroad, which approaches the 
park but can not enter it. The experience in 
the park had truly been an educating one and 
inspiring. It is worth anyone's while to try 
our plan, provided there is a determination to 
take whatever comes. A camper in the Yellow- 
stone Park can live without cost if he takes his 
own provisions. Feed for the horses, water 
and fine mountain trout are there for all who 
want to partake of and enjoy them. 

In camp that night we had a dreadful time 
on account of the high wind. It was with 
great difficulty that we cooked supper, the 
breezes beins: determined to blow the fuel off 





yiikL^. ":'--^_*»#ts'a-^^- 



Journey Around the World 115 

the fire. When we retired, the canvas was 
stretched over the wagon wheels and we 
crawled under the vehicle to try to sleep. But 
the wind blew sand and gravel in our faces with 
fearful force, and at times gusts of the hurri- 
cane almost lifted the wagon, and there was a 
constant fear that it would blow over. 

Having spent Sunday in the town of I^ivings- 
ton, we prepared the following day to take 
leave of Titsworth, the photographer, who was 
to return to Seattle. The wagon almost smiled 
at being relieved of the additional three hun- 
dred pounds of our passenger and baggage, but 
on our part the loss of Titsworth was deeply 
felt. The wind was still blowing a gale, but it 
was at our backs in the narrow Yellowstone 
valley, and we clipped along at a good rate of 
speed. Dead Man's Gulch, across the Yellow- 
stone and Big Timber rivers, gets its name 
from a solitary grave in the hillside, marked by 
the word "Unknown." It took just fifty min- 
utes to care for the horses, kindle a rousing 
fire, prepare the meal and sit down to eat. 
This, too, when we made biscuits and fried 
enough potatoes, ham and eggs to satisfy the 
appetites of two hungry travelers. This we 
considered a feat, and it is surely a pardonable 
parallel to observe in this connection that it 
took just fifty minutes to fight the battle of 



ii6 An Endeavorer's Working 

Santiago, which we had heard about a short 
time before. 

The following day we witnessed professional 
sheep shearing, in a section of the country 
where the shearers are paid eight cents for each 
animal sheared. They are able to make from 
$S to $i6 a day, yet the shearer is generally 
"broke," lives like a lower animal, has no 
ambitions and beats his way when he wants to 
go from one place to another. 

Friday, July 22nd, we reached Billings, 
Mont. One uight a short time later, just after 
we had made camp, we heard a rattling in the 
brush, and soon saw a big Indian driving 
toward us, riding in a modern hay rake drawn 
by little Indian ponies. He drove up to the 
fire and stopped, in a very pompous and 
elevated manner, letting loose a gutteral 
"Hello." The uninitiated would have been 
frightened, but beneath the red, painted face 
we saw a beaming smile and every evidence of 
good humor and hungry expectation. He 
looked at the fire longingly, and said, brokenly, 
"Supper ready?" 

We answered in the negative, whereupon the 
brave settled himself comfortably for an 
unlimited wait, folding his hands quietly across 
his shirt tail, which was flapping in front of 
him. He wore a hat, a shirt striped with blue, 
and a pair of moccasins, and some pieces of an 



Journey Around the World 117 

old blanket wrapped liis shins as a substitute 
for leggins. When asked how far it was to 
Fort Custer, he sat perfectly still for some time 
and then, pointing to the ground, said, "One 
sleep." Then raising his arm and waving it 
gracefully across the hills he said, again, "One 
sleep." Pointing in the direction in which the 
fort lay he said, "Custer," and we knew from 
these signs and few words that it would be a 
"two-days' " journey, or we must sleep another 
night on the road. As supper was ready by 
this time we gave the Indian a hot, Dutch- 
oven biscuit and a piece of ham. Holding 
them in one hand he took up the reins, clicked 
to his team and drove slowly away. 

We had hardly begun to enjoy the meal, 
when a younger buck came riding up on his 
horse from the same direction the old man had 
taken. Stopping in front of the fire he yelled 
"Hello!" m a loud voice and with a manner of 
considerable importance. We answered with 
the same word and then permitted him to sit 
there watching us eat. As the food disap- 
peared very rapidly, and he saw he was to get 
none of it, he took the hint and rode toward 
his tepee or tent. 

The next day we had a thirty-five mile drive 
ahead of us in order to find water before night. 
Reaching the Big Horn River at 4:30 in the 
afternoon, we crossed on a dollar ferry and 



ii8 An Endeavorer's Working 

found ourselves in a small Indian settlement, 
with a Catholic mission, a little store and a few 
government warehouses. This was a profitable 
stopping place, as I applied my trade to a num- 
ber of cowboys at 50 cents for each shave. We 
camped here an entire day, and although we 
were almost helpless in the midst of a force 
that might have been savage, we were treated 
very courteously. There are about 2,200 In- 
dians in this reservation. A great many of the 
young bucks raise cattle. These are purchased 
by the government, butchered and given back 
to the Indians. The old men and women are 
given coffee, sugar, flour, beans and meat. The 
government is trying to teach the Indians to 
work, and all that are able are compelled to do 
a certain amount for themselves. To get them 
in this way was not an easy task, but the In- 
dians of that section are becoming more indus- 
trious and nearly all of them cut a little prairie 
hay or perform some other sort of labor. That 
is, they do it by proxy, for the squaws, or 
women, are compelled to do most of the work. 
The store-keeper at this place, a German, had 
been with the tribe for thirty years. 



Journey Around the World 119 

CHAPTER VIII 
Fort Custer 

MONDAY noon we were in sight of Fort 
Custer, and after luncli turned our faces 
toward the Crow Agency, on the L/ittle Big 
Horn River. Here almost every Indian showed 
a desire to "swap" horses. When told that we 
did not care to trade, they invariably accepted 
the decision quietly, and left us without further 
words. We drove a couple of miles up the 
river to the site of the Custer battlefield, and 
camped in the place vv^here Sitting Bull's lodges 
were located at the time of the memorable 
fight. We approached the battlefield from the 
west, as the Indians had done when Custer 
made his famous stand just twenty-two years 
and one month before. There is a little house 
on the summit of the first hill, where the keeper 
asked us to register and recited to us the story 
of the battle. White slabs of stone mark the 
place where the first white men fell. We were 
told by persons who had received their informa- 
tion from Indians who were in the fight, that 
in the bloody engagement that marked the end 
of Custer's days a great many more Indians 
were killed than whites, but that this was 



I20 An Endeavorer's Working 

caused by a lack of discipline among the excited 
red men, wko repeatedly shot into those of their 
number who were fighting in front. 

Having visited the Cheyenne Reservation, we 
arrived on July 28th at Ashland, a Catholic 
Indian school and post-office. At the home of 
a white rancher we were told a great many 
things about the traits of the Indian. The 
cowboys often find them a terrible nuisance, for 
they frequently kill the animals for no other 
purpose than to take from them the tongues 
and tenderloin, of which they are exceedingly 
fond. There is, naturally, not the most friend- 
ly feeling in existence between the cattlemen 
and the Indians. The cowboy, rough and pro- 
fane though he may be, proved an interesting 
study. In the presence of their "boss's" wife, 
when they came to their meals, these uncouth 
men of the plains were as careful in their ac- 
tions and words, and as gentlemanly as many 
who have had the advantages of good training 
and polite society. The ranchman where we 
were being so pleasantly entertained insisted 
upon our remaining with him a week, free of 
expense, as evidence of that rare degree of hos- 
pitality which can be found only in the west. 
It was impossible, however, for us to accept the 
invitation, and we pushed on to Bug Ranch, so 
named because the brand used on the cattle is 



Journey Around the World 121 

a large bug, and were there treated as well as 
we had been at the place just left behind. 

Tourists in this part of the country com- 
plain of the drinking water found in the rail- 
road cars. But such travelers know almost 
nothing of a camp life where there is nothing 
to drink but a warm, alkali water, so strong 
that a bucket in which the water has been per- 
mitted to stand, when emptied, is soon covered 
with a white coat. 

Taking an old "round up" trail over which 
a wagon had recently gone, we journeyed until 
a heavy rain-storm obliterated the marks the 
wheels had made. Then, indeed, we were at 
a loss to know which way to go, and progress 
was as bad as stumbling in the dark. Follow- 
ing a dim trail until a river was reached, we 
found a jump-off of about thirty feet. It was 
impossible to surmount such a difficulty as 
that, so we turned and went over the hills, 
without a road, without a guide, without a 
chance of meeting a soul for perhaps eighty 
miles. Traveling all afternoon through the 
brush and over rough places, one of the horses 
gave out and our troubles were multiplied. We 
camped near a small stream, feeling almost as 
one does when hopelessly lost. Late in the 
following day, Sunday, we found two cow 
paths, running parallel, and after following 
them a short distance concluded that we had 



122 An Endeavorer's Working 

come upon the old trail. There is a delicious 
light-heartedness after such an experience, and 
it was certainly true in our case, for we soon 
met a lone stranger who told us enough to send 
us on our way reasonably sure of our bearings. 



Journey Around the World 123 

CHAPTER IX 

Breaking a Team of Wild Horses 

AT Stoneville, a small post-office settlement 
on the lyittle Missouri River, we decided 
to trade horses for fresh ones, our team having 
brought us a distance of 1,800 miles. This 
task of "swapping," no one getting any 
"boot" in the trade, having been concluded, 
the greater task of breaking the animals be- 
gan. We first put the fiery roan and black in 
a corral, in the center of which there was a 
pole called the "snubbing pole." After "snub- 
bing" one of the wild brutes for a while, we 
put a rope around his neck instead of the cruel 
halter that had been used, and began to pat the 
animal with the rope and rub it over him in 
order to show him that neither we nor the rope 
would hurt him. After a couple of hours we 
got the horses accustom.ed to the rope, each of 
us having one in charge. Then we petted the 
horses, which they resented at first, striking at 
us with their feet most viciously. When they 
saw that our intentions were good, they sub- 
mitted to the caresses. Then, fastening them 
together by their necks and tails, we drove 
them around the corral until they were 
thoroughly heated. By gradual stages we led 



124 A^ Endeavorer's Working 

up to a rattling lumber wagon, wliicli the 
horses did not like at all, but which they final- 
ly accepted as a part of what was in store for 
them. Patience did the rest, and at last the 
animals drew our lighter vehicle and we pro- 
ceeded on the journey with a team that was 
completely mastered, but still full of life and 
"ginger." When the breaking task was fin- 
ished there were four very tired creatures, and 
we were not less weary than the horses we had 
just subdued. 

That night we camped in the northeast cor- 
ner of Wyoming. We reached Bell Fourche, 
S. D., the nearest point to some of the largest 
ranges in three States, and, therefore, the 
greatest cattle shipping point, direct from the 
native plain, in the world. During the busy 
season as many as twenty train loads of cattle 
are shipped daily from this point. After visit- 
ing Fort Mead we traveled on to Smithville, 
where was the only store we were to find be- 
tween Sturgis and Pierre, a distance of 196 
miles. Here we bought provisions to last 
until we reached Pierre, then 120 miles away. 
Crossing the Cheyenne River we partook of the 
last drop of water we were to find in a journey 
of eighteen miles. Coming to the ranch of a 
man named Sam Williams, we were told that 
the next water was eight miles away. Wil- 
liams had water, but he said we could not have 



Journey Around the World 125 

it unless we put our horses in his pasture, 
which would cost thirty cents. There was a 
fierce mental struggle in opposition to such an 
outrage, but we were obliged to submit to the 
inevitable. Later we found that Sam had told 
us a thirty-cent lie, for the next water hole was 
only five miles away. 

On Tuesday, Aug. i6th, we came in sight of 
the Missouri River, and in about half a day 
reached Fort Pierre. Across the Big Muddy 
was Pierre, which, although the capital of the 
State, is a very small town. But it looked 
large to us, for it had been many days since we 
saw a place of even respectable size. At Huron 
we went to church, a privilege we had not 
enjoyed for many weeks. The heat in this 
part of the country was so intense that we lim- 
ited our travel to the early and late hours of 
the day, resting while the sun was high. Near 
Howard, where we made camp one night, there 
was not a stick of fuel in sight and we were 
obliged to cook over a fire made of hay. 

Crossing the Big Sioux River we were in 
Minnesota. At Adrian, on Saturday, I worked 
in a barber shop while Johnson did the "fam- 
ily" washing and cooking. Crossing the cor- 
ner of the State we entered Iowa. In this 
State we had for the most part, good roads, 
making travel easy and pleasant. On Septem- 
ber 6th we reached Mason City, the largest 



126 An Endeavorer's Working 

city we liad been in since we left Portland, 
Ore. Passing through Waterloo, we reached 
Independence, where we visited the famous 
Williams kite-shape track, at one time the fast- 
est track in the country, and noted for the 
records established there by the kings and 
queens of the speed ring. We reached Du- 
buque, la., and the Mississippi River, Sept. 
nth, just four months after starting upon the 
long journey across the continent. Crossing 
the Father of Waters, we were in Wisconsin, 
where we noticed, at frequent intervals along 
the roads, the "shingles" of justices of the 
peace. Inquiry brought the information that a 
marriage license is not a necessity in this State, 
and that loving couples from neighboring 
States who are unable to have the knot tied at 
home flock to Wisconsin, where the connubial 
pathway is not obstructed by serious legal 
obstacles. 

The farmers in this part of Wisconsin were 
decidedly domestic in their habits, for they 
marveled when they knew that we had come 
from far-away California and confessed that 
they had known no other section of the coun- 
try than the one they were living in. One 
man, thirty-seven years old, said he had never 
been farther away from his home than five 
miles east, ten miles south or fifteen west, 
while on the north he had never been out of 



Journey Around the World 127 

sight of tlie smoke that rolled from the chim- 
ney of his peaceful little dwelling. 

From Wisconsin we crossed into Illinois. At 
Freeport I picked up a little coin by spending 
Saturday in a barber-shop. We then visited 
Rockford and Elgin, and one night a short 
time later camped in a field not far from the 
limits of Chicago. In that city points of in- 
terest were visited, but nothing attracted our 
attention more than we attracted the attention 
of those who saw us. Perhaps our outfit, our 
travel-worn appearance and our general condi- 
tion, out of harmony with the life of a busy city, 
were peculiar. At any rate, we were gazed at 
as curiously as though we had been the forerun- 
ners of a circus of unknown wonders, all of 
which we enjoyed as much as those for whom 
we were furnishing innocent and free entertain- 
ment. We left the city through South Chi- 
cago, going through a packing suburb, Ham- 
mond, Ind., and then pushing on toward Val- 
paraiso and South Bend. In Indiana, as in 
some other States, we found many persons who 
had been born and reared in the same locality 
and who were exceedingly narrow and preju- 
diced in their customs and views. One man 
refused to sell us food or let us have shelter, 
although it was late at night, and we were the 
victims of a blinding storm. Others, however, 
were blessed with the spirit of hospitality, and 



128 An Endeavorer's Working 

gladly took us in or granted favors that cost 
them nothinsr and were more than sfold to us. 



Journey Around the World 129 

CHAPTER X 

The SbIvFishness of the Eastern Farmers 

ON October ist we reached the State of Ohio, 
continuing on toward Toledo. There are 
a great many selfish farmers in Ohio. In fact, 
the lack of kindness toward strangers increased 
as we proceeded eastward. The farmers with 
the bounteous crops and barns filled with the 
fruits of the harvest were the first to tell us 
that we could buy no hay or other horse feed 
from them. These agriculturists seem to have 
absorbed a belief that every man is dishonest 
until he has proved that he is honest. In the 
open-hearted West we had learned that every 
man is considered honest until he has proved 
himself the contrary. Almost anyone will 
agree that the Western principle is the more 
beautiful, the more manly of the two. Fre- 
quently, in this great, developed State of Ohio, 
we were turned away while storms cut around 
our faces and the surrounding country offered 
poor shelter indeed. In sharp contrast was the 
week we had spent at a far Western home, ourj 
host refusing to accept pay for what we had re- ' 
ceived and urging us to prolong the stay, 
and that host a mixture of half French and 
half Indian instead of having in his veins the 



130 An Endeavorer's Working 

kindred blood of those who turned us away. 
One Ohio farmer, who had said that we could 
sleep in his barn, changed his mind when the 
elements were raging in their worst fury, and 
drove us away. We were compelled to sleep 
on the wet ground in a rain that soaked every 
thread we wore and upon which we reclined. 

After leaving Toledo, we were permitted one 
night to camp in the corner of a pasture farth- 
est from the house, and for that privilege had 
to pay our host 25 cents. Oberlin is a model 
community, having a large Congregational 
college, sixteen churches and no saloons. 
Journeying toward Cleveland, we came to a very 
line house, with its park, hammocks, drive- 
ways, immense barns, private race course, 
grazing grounds and blooded stock. On the 
opposite side of the road a large red building 
with a sign, "White's Yucatan," told us that 
this was the home of "Chewing Gum White," 
a man who had started in life as poor as the 
proverbial turkeys of Job, and who was now 
worth millions. At the Cleveland post-office, 
we received quite a western welcome, and after 
getting the post-office stamp in a little book 
carried for that purpose, a book that was to be 
substantial and incontrovertible proof that we 
had visited the places we had claimed to see, 
were given directions and advice in as kindly a 
way as we could have expected in that section 



Journey Around the World 131 

from which we had started. Here I must place 
my opinion against a generally accepted one 
and say that Euclid avenue, in Cleveland, is by 
no means the finest in the world. We had 
already seen many handsomer ones and the 
trip around the globe had scarce begun. 

On the evening of October 14th, we crossed 
the line into Pennsylvania. It was a relief to 
get out of Ohio, although in saying this nothing 
unkind is intended for the thousands of splen- 
did, whole-souled persons who have claimed 
that state as their home, and who now live 
there. But there was such a large measure of 
distrust for strangers and such a surprising lack 
of kindness that there were no regrets in our 
hearts when we entered the confines of another 
commonwealth. Pennsylvania, however, was 
not much better, although the people were not 
quite so obstinate in their refusals to favor 
strangers. We found a big-hearted German at 
Fairview, Fred Smith, who invited us down to 
spend Sunday on the shore of L,ake Erie. After 
leaving the city of Erie we camped at North 
East, and then crossing the line into New York 
State, entered the grape belt. We arrived in 
Buffalo, October 21st. Here we closed our 
camp experience for 1898, and sold Dewey and 
Sampson, the team we had purchased wild on 
the plains of Montana. The animals, at first 
so vicious, had become quite gentle and we dis- 



132 An Endeavorer's Working 

posed of them for $40, just what we had 
paid for the former team we left Seattle with. 
In the two years, 1897 and 1898, by the aid of 
five horses, and making three relays we had 
covered a distance of 6,060 miles, 2,560 in 
1897 with one horse, and 3,500 in 1898 with 
four horses, or two teams. Thirty-five hundred 
miles is a long buggy ride, as long, -perhaps, as 
any man has taken in one direction. We had 
crossed America over its greatest width. Our 
wagon, which had attracted attention every- 
where we went, chiefly on account of the words 
which it bore — "1898, from Seattle to N. Y." — 
had stood the trip remarkably well. We car- 
ried no hint of advertising, and the absence of 
all such was a recommendation whenever the 
purposes of the journey were explained. Like 
Dewey and Sampson, the wagon was sold at 
Buffalo, and with it went the happy reminders 
of many days and nights of camp life. The 
one great requirement in making such a journey, 
under similar circumstances and with animals 
that had to be broken and taught that which we 
expected of them, was patience. That a large 
measure of that gift was necessary we certainly 
had learned conclusively, and yet at this time 
the determination to go on around the world 
and conquer the other and perhaps greatei 
difficulties that were to arise, did not leave me 
for a moment. 



Journey Around the World 133 

CHAPTER XI 

Through the East on a Bicyci^k. 

'AVING reached Buffalo, the next point of 
interest was, of course, the Niagara Falls. 
But so many writers have devoted space to this 
wonder that it is quite out of the question for 
me to devote even a few lines to this marvel of 
nature's work. We learned, however, that all 
of the written accounts and eloquent descrip- 
tions of the falls had utterly failed to convey 
even a faint impression of their real splendor 
and grandeur. 

From Buffalo we went to Syracuse, N. Y., 
where we spent two days with Prof. I^ewis and 
Prof. Mead, of the High School, whom we had 
met in the Yellowstone Park. From Syracuse 
to Albany there was a great opportunity to wit- 
ness the three wonderful means of transporta- 
tion employed in that portion of New York — 
the Mohawk River, ■ the Erie Canal and the 
New York Central Railroad, in many places the 
three being side by side. After visiting the 
25-million dollar state capitol at Albany we 
took boat for a trip down the Hudson River, 
but there was a deep disappointment in this in 
the fact that ours was a niafht ride. On Nov. 



134 ^^ Endeavorer's Working 

3, 1898, we landed at the West Twenty-second 
Street pier, New York City. 

My stay in New York was a practical, work- 
ing experience, the sights of the great city 
being seen on days when employment for wages 
did not demand my time. On the day after we 
arrived, Johnson secured work in a grocery store 
on Third Avenue, in New York, while I found 
a "chair" in a Brooklyn barber-shop. At the 
post-office we had the official stamp placed in 
our little book, thus completing the chain of 
stamps across the continent. Then came days 
for labor and days for sight-seeing, the dreary 
grind alternating with little journeys to the 
hundreds of places of interest that the metropo- 
lis affords. 

One of these was a visit to the sub-treasury 
of the United States, through which we were 
escorted by Charles M. Wiley, the assistant 
treasurer, and another gentleman. Approach- 
ing a door with heavy steel bars, we saw why 
two men accompanied us on the tour of inspec- 
tion. There were two locks on the door, and 
as one man is not allowed to have a key for 
more than one lock, it was necessary for us to 
have possessors of two keys. For a fleeting 
moment I had the privilege of holding in my 
hand one million dollars, in the shape of one 
thousand ^1,000-bills, and the sensation of 
such an experience is one that a person not 



Journey Around the World 135 

addicted to the use of dream-drugs ought not to 
attempt to describe. I might add in passing 
that I have not held a million dollars in my 
hand from that time to this. On that day we 
were in the presence of the neat little sum of 
158 million dollars, but if we had been locked 
in there with all of it and told that it was ours 
forever, we would have starved to death in 
sight of enough money to buy a meal for a good 
portion of the whole world's population. 

In New York my pleasant associations with 
Mr. Johnson came to an end, for he found it 
necessary, on account of business matters, to 
return to the Pacific slope. It was not an easy 
task to part from one with whom such close 
friendship had been established. Our hearts, 
hopes, purposes and purses had been one 
throughout the long journey. We had shared 
pleasures and hardships together, and when it 
all came to an end, I was depressed to a degree 
that was almost equal to mourning. Therefore, 
in March, 1899, I was left to complete the un- 
dertaking alone, and even the grief of parting 
from my friend did not shake tjhe determination 
I had formed to circle the globe. 

At one of the great packing houses of New 
York City, which is not great, however, in 
comparison with the establishments of western 
cities, I met M. F. Mullins, the champion 
butcher of the world. He is a Kansas City 



136 An Endeavorer's Working 

man, and told me that New York was fifty 
years behind the West in the butchering busi- 
ness. 

The daily street scenes of New York had be- 
come quite common. I had visited those sec- 
tions of the city where the millionaires dwell, 
and had also penetrated the dark holes where 
vice and corruption have smothered out every- 
thing that is good, except those brave men and 
women who spend their lives in such filthy sur- 
roundings for the purpose of carrying the good 
tidings of a better life and of the sacrifice that 
was made by One greater than all for just such 
pitiable creatures as may be found in the slums 
of a great city. I was in the metropolis at the 
time of the great snow-storm, and it was inter- 
esting, at the same time painful, to note that 
when the streets were blocked with snow and 
all traffic was checked by the deep blanket of 
white, the first vehicles to break the crust and 
begin the work of beating a path were the big 
brewery wagons. 

The winter spent in New York was indeed a 
busy one. My trade enabled me to get employ- 
ment in various parts of the city, and I was 
therefore able to study the populated island 
thoroughly. At the first place where I was 
employed I was asked to go to the corner 
saloon for a bucket of beer. I refused, and the 
indignant employer informed me that in his 



Journey Around the World 137 

fifty-five years' experience in that city, lie had 
never had a barber refuse to "rush the can" 
until I so informed him. I told him that I 
would rather look for another job than carry 
beer for the best barber with two hands, and 
that is how I was out looking for work just a 
short time after finding employment. 

On May 24th my stay in New York City 
came to an end, and I resumed my travels, this 
time using a bicycle as a means of transporta- 
tion. I had a case made that fit the frame of 
the wheel and was able to carry about twenty- 
five pounds of baggage in that way. The ride 
north, along the east bank of the Hudson 
River was as charming as poetry has pictured 
it, and there was a feeling of indescribable de- 
light as each landmark and bit of scenery, well 
known to every one who has read of the glories 
of this charming stream, came into view. At 
Tarrytown I went to the Sleepy Hollow Ceme- 
tery and saw the grave where lies the body of 
Washington Irving. There were many head- 
stones bearing the names of patriots who 
helped to make our early history, or of men 
and women famous in art, or letters, or war. 
Near the gate of the old Dutch graveyard they 
began burying the dead as far back as 1650. 

From the sleeping-places of heroes my jour- 
ney took me to the cells of living captives, 
Sing Sing prison being the point of interest. 



138 An Endeavorer's Working 

Crossing the river to West Point, I struck out 
from the military academy toward the home of 
B. P. Roe, keeping the west side of the river 
to Newburg, where I looked down the river 
from the door of the old log house where Wash- 
ington had his headquarters and where the 
treaty of peace was signed by the British. 
Crossing the river again at Troy, I left the banks 
of the stream and proceeded toward the New 
England States, after making another trip to 
Albany for the purpose of inspecting more 
carefully the great capitol building of the Em- 
pire State. 

I will here diverge sufficiently to give an idea 
of some eastern hospitality, assuring the reader 
that such cases are not the invariable rule. 
After leaving Troy I stopped at a farmhouse 
for the purpose, if possible, of securing lodging 
for the night. On the porch stood an old man 
from whose luxuriant beard there floated a yel- 
low stream of tobacco fluid. He relieved him- 
self of the surplus, and responded to my ques- 
tion by informing me that he had not enter- 
tained a stranger in twenty years. The only 
satisfaction I received from him was the in- 
formation that it was five miles to Hoosick. 
It was a dark, difficult ride, and would not 
have been necessary, under such unfavorable 
conditions, in the more cordial West. On May 
30th, I reached Bennington, Vt., and was soon 



Journey Around the World 139 

on the slope of the Green Mountains. On the 
summit I found a place where the stranger re- 
ceived no such treatment as that experienced a 
few days before, for at a modest home nestled 
in the hard maple trees I was able to purchase, 
for a mere trifle, a satisfying meal that restored 
good humor and gave me strength for a hard 
ride over the level roads on top of the pic- 
turesque range. From Brattlesboro I crossed 
the Connecticut River to New Hampshire. 
Northfield was my first stopping-place in Mas- 
sachusetts, and there I called upon Mr. D. L. 
Moody in his own home. At Westminster, 
where I attended church, Mrs. Jane E. Damon 
and her son invited me to spend a night in 
their home, one of the finest in New England, 
and here I was given a royal and open-hearted 
reception indeed. From Mount Wachusett, the 
highest point in the State, I was able to get a 
fine view of the country for fifty miles around. 
Passing through Worcester, I arrived in Bos- 
ton on Saturday and by noon was at work in a 
barber shop. On Sunday, June 4th, I attended 
the Park Street Church and heard a sermon by 
the Rev. Dr. John Ivindsay Withrow. The next 
day was one of great historical interest, and 
there were few sights having woven into them 
the early history of our country that I did not 
visit during the next few days. I climbed the 
tower to the window from which Paul Revere 



140 An Endeavorer's Working 

hung his lantern after the famous ride; visited 
the little grocery, which is in the old farm- 
house of Paul Revere, on North Square; in- 
spected Charleston and the Bunker Hill monu- 
ment and the statue of William Prescott. 
These were inspiring hours for me, and yet I 
met business men in Boston who had never 
been near the Bunker Hill monument, and 
who, passing the old State house day after day, 
had never set foot within its walls. 

I left Boston on June 6th, and went to the 
manufacturing city of Lynn. After crossing 
the line into New Hampshire from Newbury- 
port on June 7th, I came upon two "down 
Bast" farmers, vainly struggling in the high- 
way with a balky horse. Their efforts to start 
the stubborn animal were cjuite amusing to a 
boy whose great delight was the mastery of 
unwilling or fractious horses, and I was an 
amused spectator until the men gave up in de- 
spair. At my own suggestion I was permitted 
to try my hand at the task in which they had 
failed, and at the end of a few minutes, when I 
had the horse as docile and obedient as any 
family "plug," one of the New Englanders, to 
show his deep appreciation of what I had done, 
dived into the recesses of a monstrous purse 
and depleted his treasury by the liberal gift of 
twenty-five cents for what, according to his 
own words, was worth a great deal to him. 



Journey Around the World 141 

That was quite a little for the average New 
England farmer to do. He told me to get a 
drink with the quarter. It was well he so in- 
structed me. I might have believed that he 
desired me to purchase a suit of clothes with it. 



142 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XII 
Experiences in New England 

I MANAGED to pass througli various villages 
all the way to Kittery, Maine, without 
spending the coin for drink, and as far as that 
is concerned, I would have had it yet if it had 
been legal tender for no other purpose. I did 
not penetrate the State of Maine, but soon 
crossed the line again back into New Hamp- 
shire. On June 8th I reached Haverhill, Mass., 
where the New England Convention of the 
Christian Church was in session. Returning to 
Boston I left that city for Plymouth, passing 
through Quincy and viewing the burial place 
of John Quincy Adams. Between Boston and 
Plymouth I applied at nine houses for lodging, 
and was refused an equal number of times. 
The road was sandy and the night exceedingly 
dark. Travel a- wheel was almost impossible, 
and my plight was far from pleasant. In the 
far West I would have been sound asleep soon 
after making the first application. But the 
difference between the sections of the country 
IS sharply emphasized in my experience that 
night. At each house I was told that the 
family on up the road would probably take me 
in. At the house referred to by the last unfeel- 



Journey Around the World 143 

ing resident the same reception was met. Not 
one of them had room for me, and yet in one 
house I counted twelve windows from the road- 
side where I stood wearily leaning against my 
bicycle, and the dwelling was one of the larg- 
est I had passed. My application for enter- 
tainment was reasonable, I was clad in present- 
able clothes and had money in my pockets with 
which to pay for what I received. And yet, in 
that supposedly enlightened state, in the very 
cradle of liberty and the home of the pioneer, I 
was more unkindly treated than I had been in 
the midst of cowboys who knew little of eti- 
quette, and of Indians whose knowledge of civi- 
lization was almost nothing. Coming to a 
church near a post-office called West Duxbury, 
I found shelter in a shed, and there passed the 
remaining hours of a very unhappy night. I 
was so tired that the feeling of hunger was 
overcome, and I slept peacefully. At the next 
house, soon after sunrise, I secured breakfast 
and twenty cents in cash in exchange for the 
application of my shears to the male heads of 
the household and the use of the hone in sharp- 
ening their dull razors. Reaching Plymouth 
on June 19th, I was soon sitting on Plymouth 
Rock, which is sheltered by a stone arch and 
has a harbor on each side. There are no other 
rocks in sight to dispute the claim of this one, 
and there is little doubt that this is the his- 



144 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

toiical object around whicli so mucti of our 
national history centers. 

At Rehoboth I boned a razor for a man who, 
I soon learned, was tbe pastor of one of the 
churches. He told me the little town we were 
then in was once the rival of Boston. In reply 
to a question as to why the people of that part 
of the country were so slow to give welcome to 
the stranger, he said that so many strange 
things happened that it was the rule to take no 
one in. When I carried the argument farther 
and reminded him that persons used their own 
judgment in refusing or accepting a silver dol- 
lar, taking it if it was good and rejecting it if 
spurious, he agreed with my assertion that the 
same degree of judgment should be applied to 
men, and that one should take the individual 
for what he seemed to be worth. My plain 
statements rather pleased this New England 
pastor, and I was invited to remain and attend 
an Endeavor prayer-meeting. But, having fin- 
ished the razor, I bid the reverend gentleman 
good-bye and crossed the line into Rhode 
Island. At the post-office in Providence I met 
James Foster, a member of the writing staff of 
the Providence Journal. He asked me for a 
story and invited me to supper with him. This 
invitation was gladly accepted, and there fol- 
lowed a most delightful evening at the journal- 
ist's home. 



Journey Around the World 145 

As tins was the only night I was to be in 
Rhode Island, I wanted to spend it in the 
country, in order that I might know what kind 
of reception the farmers of that state would 
give me. Being caught in a rain-storm, and 
having the best possible excuse to ask for shel- 
ter, I was surprised to find a refusal, even for 
shelter in a wood-shed, at the first house I 
stopped at. Then I went on to a little church 
where an ice-cream social was in progress. The 
boys and girls were divided into little "cliques," 
and the sexes seemed to be afraid of each other. 
The boys bought dishes of the cream and went 
off by themselves to eat it in the most selfish 
fashion. There were two of them who mus- 
tered enough bravery to buy for some girls, but 
they simply carried the dishes to the "fair" 
ones and immediately joined a crowd of boys. 
My clothes were wet, but my collar was clean, 
and I must have been as respectable as most of 
those in the little church. But notwithstand- 
ing that fact, it is true that I sat there for an 
hour and was not spoken to by a solitary per- 
son. When I left I gave ten cents to the presi- 
dent of the society, "Susie," by name, to pay 
for the light and heat I had absorbed. I actu- 
ally had her thanks for the payment and went 
out into the cheerless night without further 
ceremony. T inquired at three large houses for 
lodging, but the inhabitants would hardly o^^en 
10 



146 An Endeavorer's Working 

the doors wide enougli to see who was standing 
outside. At a public road-house, a resort more 
for drinking and dancing than anything else, I 
secured a sleeping place in the barn, and it was 
there that I spent my only night in cordial (?) 
"Little Rhody." The next day when I reached 
the Connecticut state line, my cyclometer regis- 
tered twenty-nine miles for the journey across 
Rhode Island. 

Sunday, June 28th, was spent in Hartford. 
One of the peculiar things in that city was a 
placard posted in the office of the Arlington 
House, "No Cigarette Smoking in this Office." 
It was the first time I had ever seen such a 
warning in a place of that kind. It was one 
virtue the Arlington had. I had a splendid 
road from Hartford to New Haven, where the 
beauties of Yale were fully enjoyed. Riding 
along the seashore the following day I reached 
Bridgeport and went on to Stanford. On June 
3ist I was in New York City again, after a tour 
of New England covering 847 miles. I had 
indeed been a stranger among strangers, and 
the strongest lesson I had learned was that the 
good New England people have not yet had 
their lives broadened by the wide horizon of 
the West, and that our Eastern cousins learn a 
profitable lesson by leaving the farms, which 
have been their homes from generation to gen- 
eration, and visiting a section of the country 



Journey Around the World 147 

where every man is another man's friend until 
he has proved that he is unworthy of such a 
trust. 

Then I pushed on to Jersey City and to 
Newark, N. J. My route included Elizabeth 
and Princeton. At the latter place I visited 
Nassau Hall, which was used as a prison dur- 
ing the Revolutionary war. At Trenton I 
crossed the Delaware River, but my passage 
was not beset with as great difficulties as that 
of Washington and his faithful men. My first 
night in Pennsylvania was spent at Bristol. I 
reached Philadelphia on June 23rd, and there 
had another opportunity to see numerous places 
that are familiar, in name, to every child stu- 
dent of our nation's history, and which need 
not be enumerated in a recital of this kind. 
One of these was the Bettie Ross house at 239 
Arch Street, the birthplace of the Stars and 
Stripes. The people of the Quaker City are 
exceedingly kind and obliging to strangers, and 
there was a delightful, informal hospitality 
which, although more reserved than that found 
in the Western States, was enough to cheer the 
traveler's heart and give greater faith in man- 
kind. 

In Philadelphia I secured a Saturday's em- 
ployment at the rate of I3 in cash and two 
meals thrown in, in what is called a "sanitary" 
shop. By the use of sanitary cups and sani- 



148 An Endeavorer's Working 

tar)' shaving cream, each customer is shaved 
without the use of soap that has been used on 
another's face. All shaving-cups, brushes, 
hair-brushes and combs are given an antiseptic 
treatment before they are used again, and the 
system is as near a perfection of cleanliness as 
any system could well be. In Philadelphia it 
is as New York works it, the tradesmen living 
with their employer. This is a custom that 
has been borrowed from the old country. In 
some cases it is pleasant, in others decidedly, 
disagreeable. 

On the following day, Sunday, I attended a 
service in a Quaker church and in the after- 
noon went to John Wanamaker's Sunday- 
school. After hearing Master "Jack" Cook, 
the boy evangelist, that night I felt assured 
that the day had been well spent. I left Phil- 
adelphia the following day, over the Lancaster 
pike. A few miles out I was permitted to sleep 
in a barn whose owner possessed a house big 
enough for many of my physical dimensions. 
It was the best accommodation in sight, how- 
ever, and my legs w^ere exceedingly weary. 
The next day I ate dinner on a farm that had 
once been the home of William Penn. It has 
never been sold, but has been handed down 
through the generations until it has reached 
the present owners, the Mcllvain's, most hos- 
pitable people indeed. It was on a farm in 



Journey Around the World 149 

this eastern State of Pennsylvania that I learned 
to swing a "cradle" and to bind grain byhand. 
I had done these kinds of farm work in Ne- 
braska and the West, with the assistance of 
modern machinery, but it remained for me to 
work in an eastern section in order to become 
acquainted with the methods that I supposed 
had gone out of use long before that time. 
The daily program on this farm was so different 
from what I had been accustomed to, that I 
felt entirely at a loss as to what was about to 
happen next. We left the field at 4 o'clock 
and went to the house, where we sat down to 
a meal that made the table groan with the 
abundance of it. Then we returned to the 
field, labored until the sun went down, returned 
to the house again and then — not to supper — 
but to bed. Hours had passed since I had par- 
taken of food, but the generous meal of the 
afternoon had made hunger impossible, and I 
was happy in peaceful sleep until 4 o'clock the 
next morning, when the voice of the farmer 
awoke the "boys" from their dreams. Ac- 
cording to instructions I put the harness on the 
horses and mules, the only difference between 
that operation and the same one in my part of 
the country being that Mr. Marin called the 
harness "gear." At 5:30 o'clock we had 
breakfast, a liberal meal, too, and at 6 o'clock 
were off to the field again to resume the bind- 



150 An Endeavorer's Working 

ing-by-haud process. The dinner bell rang at 
10 o'clock, and I then learned that I had been 
mistaken in calling the 4 o'clock meal by that 
name. On Saturday my work as a farm-hand 
in the Quaker district came to an end, but my 
employer, after giving me a $5 bill, insisted 
upon my remaining until Monday in order that 
I might attend a Quaker meeting with Mr. 
Reacer, the owner of the farm. I did this, and 
the experience was like going back into the 
past for a hundred years or more. Every old 
Quaker tradition that I had heard about when a 
boy was pictured there in reality. The quaint 
costumes of the men and women, the division 
of the sexes in the meeting-houses, the lack of 
an instrument and modern methods, the lack of 
confusion and in its place almost oppressive 
silence, were all there to add an indescribable 
charm to one of the most solemn and uplifting 
services I had ever attended. On Monday I 
bid my friends good-by with a feeling of sin- 
cere regret, and, leaving a neighborhood that 
seemed old-fashioned in many respects, con- 
tinued my journey. 

Paradise, a village through which I soon 
passed, has about a score of dilapidated houses 
and seems about as far from the place indicated 
by its name as any settlement I had visited in 
the state. The best proof, in fact, that theie 
is little in names is a trip through the country. 



Journey Around the World 151 

for one is constantly meeting all sorts of incon- 
sistencies in tlie form of names for towns tliat 
are decidedly out of keeping with the places 
themselves. The Fourth of July v/as spent on 
the highway, wheeling in company with a 
young man who was cycling through that part 
of the country, and in Gettysburg, where, on 
account of the war-memories interwoven with 
the history of the town, the celebration of the 
day seemed particularly inspiring and appro- 
priate. One year ago this day I was in the 
Yellowstone National Park, and now on a bat- 
tlefield where the blood of heroes, in blue and 
gray, had been spilled for a cause that each 
thought was right. The vicinity of Gettys- 
burg teems with interesting landmarks and the 
records of the deadly fighting that took place 
there are written in the fences, the rolling hills 
and level fields which are familiar to those who 
have read the story of the carnage that dedi- 
cated this spot to the great lessons of the war. 
Leaving Gettysburg, I crossed the line into 
Maryland. In this State I found a degree of 
southern hospitality that far surpassed that 
experienced in the North. Strangers are asked 
but one question as a rule, and that is, "And 
what might your name be?" The door swings 
wide for rich and poor. It is no hardship for a 
tourist to tiavel over the hills and rocky roads 
of this section of the country, for when weary 



152 An Endeavorer's Working 

lie finds a welcome wherever he may apply for 
shelter, and does not have to tax his strength 
and patience, as I had done many times in the 
North, looking in vain for a chance to escape 
the natural elements or gain relief from the 
exhaustion of travel. At the home of a John . 
Moxley I was given a hearty welcome, and 
while the mother and daughters prepared the 
meal, I cut the hair of the father and his boys. 
By the time I had the male contingent of the 
family trimmed up we were all ready to draw 
our chairs around the laden table. 

After the meal Mr. Moxley brought out a box 
of crooked-stemmed pipes and passed it to me. 
I informed him that I did not smoke, and there- 
by aroused the astonishment of all the family, 
for each one, from 15 years up, and including 
the mother, put a pipe between his teeth and 
filled the room with smoke as they chatted. 
The tobacco industry is one of the material 
mainstays of this state, and Baltimore's reputa- 
tion as a shipping point for the weed is well 
known. 



Journey Around the World 153 

CHAPTER XIII 
Washington and the Sunny South 

THE next day, after passing through several 
small towns in Maryland, I reached the 
national capital — Washington the beautiful, the 
most attractive city in the world. The first 
glimpse of the capitol building, of the stately 
monument and of the other structures familiar, 
in mind if not in the experience of every school 
boy, sent a thrill through me and awoke a 
greater respect for the government, of which 
they are magnificent reminders. On Saturday 
I began work in a barber-shop near the govern- 
ment printing office, and was thereby able to 
keep up expenses while visiting points of inter- 
est at odd hours. The value of this experience 
in Washington cannot be stated. A visit to 
the capital increases one's patriotism, enlarges 
his knowledge, is entertaining and altogether 
uplifting. Every young man and young 
woman owes it to himself or herself to see, if 
possible, the great city of Washington — not 
great in size or industry, but great as a city of 
homes, of boulevards, of magnificent buildings 
and, more than all, as the seat of the first gov- 
ernment of all the world. My little journeys to 
the various places of interest cannot be de- 



154 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

scribed in detail, I saw as neaily all of them 
as possible. My call at the White House was 
of course one of the most important incidents 
of the time spent in Washington. President 
McKinley, reading my card as I stood near his 
desk, said in a kindly tone, "You have a grand 
outline of travel. I wish you Godspeed." He 
then shook my hand. I said, "I am glad to 
meet you." The President terminated the 
interview by leaving the office, after greeting 
those who had entered his private room with 
me, and my visit to the chief executive of the 
United States was over. 

In passing permit me to pay a word of 
tribute to that magnificent structure, the finest 
of its kind on earth, the product of American 
genius and skill, a building of which the nation 
has good reason to be proud, the Library of 
Congress. I have not the power to describe it 
properly, and it would seem that words of the 
most charmed kind would be inadequate in 
handling such a sublimely splendid subject. 
The building is a credit to the men who con- 
structed it, and one of which every citizen 
should be proud. The same can be said of that 
great pile of masonry dedicated to the govern- 
ment of the United States, the massive capitol. 
These days spent in Washington were filled 
with delights and surprises and matters of 
educational interest. Sunday evening, July 



Journey Around the World 155 

i6tli, I had the pleasure of hearing a summary 
of the International Endeavor Convention, 
which had just closed at Detroit, by the Rev. 
F. D. Power, who has been pastor of the Ver- 
mont Avenue Christian Church for twenty-five 
years. 

After climbing to the top of the monument 
and visiting the various department buildings, 
I left Washington after spending ten profitable 
days at the seat of our government. I crossed 
the Potomac River and went to historic old 
Alexandria, Va., and Mt. Vernon, the home of 
George Washington. From there my way took 
me to Manassas and the battlefield of Bull Run. 
Traveling for many miles without special inci- 
dent, I reached the Luray Caverns, to enter 
which I paid one dollar. They contain many 
v/onderful works of nature, and have a com- 
bination of beauties that unite to make them 
exceedingiy attractive. After leaving this 
place, which is not on a good highway, I 
reached a level pike and was soon in the famous 
Valley of Virginia. One night, just as the sun 
was falling behind the western hills, I met a 
gentleman in front of his big farm-house. He 
spoke to me, and our conversation was followed 
by an invitation to spend the night in his 
home, I accepted and entered upon an expe- 
rience that is a fair sample of the open-hearted 
hospitality of Virginia. The meals were boun- 



156 An Endeavorer^s Working 

tiful, the conveniences made to suit the wishes 
of the visitor, and I was treated as well as 
though I had been an old friend of the family. 
My host's name was S. Y. Beam, and next 
morning, after a delicious breakfast, he accom- 
panied me to Harrisonburg. His hospitality ex- 
tended the entire twenty-nine miles to that 
town, for when we got there he would not let 
me pay for my own dinner. I relate this 
incident to show the similarity of the West and 
South in the matter of entertaining strangers, 
as well as the marked contrast between those 
sections of the country and some parts of 
New England which I had visited. I tnink 
the degree of the "milk of human kindness" 
possessed by the Virginians impressed me more 
strongly than that of any other people with 
whom I came in contact while traveling in my 
own country. It is that Southern cheer that is 
born into the very fibres of their make-up, and 
which, if others would emulate, would throw a 
great measure of sunshine into the selfish world. 
Passing through Lexington, Va,, I reached 
the famous Natural Bridge on July 22nd, and 
found my way through the park without in- 
structions or a guide. Upon the great sides of 
the archway hundreds of names have been cut 
in the rock. One of these, at a distance of 
about twenty-five feet above the river, is that of 
George Washington. I walked up the incline 



Journey Around the World 157 

acioss the bridge, and then, in order that I 
might say that I had pedaled a bicycle across 
the great span not made with hands, rode over it 
and proceeded on my way. At the home of the 
Rowland brothers, five bachelors who reside at 
Roanoke, I slept in the bedroom which Presi- 
dent Andrew Jackson had occupied when he 
was on his way to Washington from Tennessee. 
My first important stopping-place in Tenn- 
essee was Bristol, which I reached on July 28th. 
Half of this town, by the way, is in Virginia 
and half is in Tennessee, the principal street 
being the state line. In this state the degree 
of hospitality was large and there was seldom 
a house too fine or too small to afford a place 
for the tired stranger. From Limestone I rode 
out to the home of "Davy" Crockett. The 
surroundings of this historic spot are out of the 
ordinary, for the rough marble slab that marks 
the birthplace of the pioneer was at that time 
in the midst of a luxuriant growth of water- 
melons and muskmelons. At Greenville I was 
in the old tailor-shop of President Johnson, and 
at Morristown I left the railroad to cross the 
Cumberland Mountains. At a little cabin home 
of humble pretensions, I found shelter that 
night, and to show that it is not the ambition 
of those people to "rob" the traveler whom 
they have entertained, it is not out of place for 
me to note here that for supper, lodging and 



158 An Endeavorer's Working 

breakfast, I was charged ten cents, my host re- 
marking, too, that such a sum would be "a 
plenty." 

It was in the Cumberland Mountains that I 
saw great, strapping men lying on their front 
porches, resting through the lazy afternoons, 
while the women were out in the back yards 
chopping wood with dull axes. It was like- 
wise in the Cumberland Mountains that a boy 
told me he had never seen a bicycle before, and 
offered to "sot me across" a stream which I did 
not want to try to ford in exchange for a short 
ride on the machine that was so strange in his 
eyes. I accepted the offer and thereby affoided 
the boy one of the great events of his life. 

I entered the State of Kentucky near Jellico, 
and was soon in a rough coal-mining district, 
where "moonshine" whisky seemed to be plen- 
tiful and the people were of an unpolished 
class. At Corbin I found employment in a 
barber-shop and replenished my purse suffi- 
ciently to make some repairs that my bicycle 
and outfit were sorely in need of. In the moun- 
tains I had walked more than two hundred 
miles, and when I came to this stopping-place 
was exceedingly tired. The people in the 
mountains were extremely kind, and although 
I had made my bed on the floor and ate meals 
made up of cornbread and bacon, they were 
given as cheerfully as though the little cabins 



Journey Around the World 159 

had been instead, mansions with splendidly 
furnished rooms for those who asked for shel- 
ter. It was not what I received that was 
appreciated, but the spirit in which it was 
given. At some of these modest little homes 
in the mountains the heads of the families 
refused to accept remuneration for the frugal 
comforts that I had asked for and received. 



i6o An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XIV 

The Mammoth Cave — To the Old Home 

iN August 1 8th I reached the Mammoth 
Cave and joined a party of thirteen for 
an inspection of this marvelous work of nature, 
so well described and so many times that a 
repetition of its wonders would be out of place 
in this connection. Two and one-half miles 
from the town of Buffalo, Ky., I visited the 
birthplace of Abraham Lincoln and drank from 
the spring that had given him refreshing 
draughts when he was a barefoot boy. Reach- 
ing lyouisville, August 22d, I crossed the Ohio 
River into Indiana, and at Washington, in that 
state, found employment in a barber-shop. At 
the home of the pastor of the Christian Church 
in this town the young minister asked me what 
he could do for me. 

"Lend me a clean shirt until I can get some 
laundry," was my prompt reply. 

The preacher readily complied with my re- 
quest, but when I got to my room and pre- 
paied to dress before beginning work in the 
barber-shop, I found that he had misunderstood 
my need and had given me a night-shirt. Not 
to be outdone by such a trivial error, however, 
the shirt having a collar and white bosom that 



Journey Around the World i6i 

answered practical purposes, I overcame the 
disadvantage caused by the extreme length of 
the garment and bravely went to work wearing 
a borrowed slumber-robe. I remained in Wash- 
ington until September 4th, and then pushed 
on to Vincennes, where I crossed the Wabash 
River into Illinois. Crossing the "Prairie 
State," I arrived at East St. Louis and there 
crossed the Mississippi River into Missouri, the 
state of my birth. Since leaving New York I 
had traveled 2,471 miles. With all possible 
haste I went to Burlington Junction, the Mis- 
souri home of my father, where I rested from 
my journey long enough to assist in the build- 
ing of a new house. The dwelling was com- 
pleted in time for me to strike out again on the 
6th of December, my course then lying toward 
the south. I passed through St. Joseph and 
Kansas City, crossed the Missouri River to 
Leavenworth, Kan., visited the state peniten- 
tiary at Lansing, near Leavenworth, and head- 
ed with perseverence for the "Sunny South." 
These woids far from applied to the weather 
conditions that prevailed after I left Kansas 
City, for I was soon in a blinding snowstorm 
and my progress could not have been more un- 
comfortable. The weather was so cold that I 
was obliged to protect my feet by wrapping 
them, in great pieces of coffee sack, and the 

ground, covered with snow, offered no means of 
11 



1 62 An Endeavorer's Working 

advancement save in the use of my feet and 
legs as a pedestrian, my bicycle being at this 
time a positive hindrance as I pushed it through 
the heavy snow. I reached the mining district 
around Joplin, Mo., and in a little one-room 
cabin near that town found shelter on Christ- 
mas, the women of the family going to bed 
while we men sat around the fire with our 
backs toward them. Then, the lights having 
been extinguished, we took our turn at "turn- 
ing in," and were soon asleep as peacefully as 
though each one were in a bed-chamber of 
some pretensions. My journey through the 
Indian Territory was delayed on account of a 
lack of bridges and had the advantage of a great 
deal of athletic exercise by jumping from rocks 
and logs to other rocks and logs, quite in the 
fashion of a lizard. Accommodations in the 
territory were exceedingly poor, the huts of the 
natives being far apart, and the white men who 
have married Cherokee squaws caring much 
less to entertain strangers of their own blood 
than Indians. With a sprained ankle, wretch- 
ed camping facilities and few words of welccme 
to greet me at the places where I stopped, this 
part of the trip was almost devoid of pleas- 
ant features, and there came with it a severe 
test of the patience that had kept me going up 
to this time. New Year's day was spent at 
Fort Smith, Ark., and from there I entered the 



Journey Around the World 163 

Choctaw country in the territory. These tribes 
which I encountered were nothing like the 
Northern tribes, for they have no typical form 
of dress and their inheritances make them rich 
and independent. They take well to educa- 
tion, are frequently inclined to be religious, and 
in many cases make the best kind of citizens to 
be found in that still new and undeveloped 
country. 

The cotton-fields began to break into view as 
I went on south and reached the Ozark Moun- 
tains. The people in this locality have their 
marked peculiarities, one of which seems to be 
an inability to speak with a degree of certainty 
about anything. 

"How far is it to the next town?" I asked 
one native. 

"A right smart pace," was his unsatisfactory 
reply. 

"How much cotton can be raised on this 
piece of ground?" I asked another. 

"A heap," was his vague rejoinder. 

While working in the town of Mena, Ark., 
I came to know the possibilities of the Arkan- 
sas rat. He eats the shaving soap in the bar- 
ber shops and devours the hair brushes. The 
"razor-back" hogs came into town and min- 
gled with domestic animals on terras of sur- 
prising familiarity. Truly, there is but one 
Arkansas. 



164 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XV 
Thj5 Sunny South Again 

FROM Meua I went to Beaumont, Texas, and 
then to the gulf shipping town of Port 
Arthur, which is named for a strenuous rail- 
road promoter, Arthur Stilwell, who is now 
having various settlements named for him in 
Mexico. Entering Louisiana I spent February 
24th at Lafayette, a French settlement, and 
saw there the amusing sight of typical "dark- 
ies," so far as looks were concerned, jabbering 
away in the French language as excitedly as 
though they had been bleached denizens of the 
Paris boulevards. Crossing the Mississippi 
River, I reached New Orleans on February 25th 
and found my purse in such an enfeebled con- 
dition that I willingly took the first employ- 
ment that offered itself and was soon working 
in a restaurant. My work was to take care of 
the glass and silverware. I received 75 cents 
for that first day's work, but did not accept the 
invitation to return the next morning and work 
in the dining-room, for I found employment in 
a barber-shop, and that was not only more to 
my liking, but was more remunerative. The 
harvest of business had just begun in all lines, 
for the famous Mardi Gras was almost at hand. 



Journey Around the World 165 

Barbers on sucli occasions, and in such a city, 
where money comes easily from the opulent 
strangers who flock there from every part of 
the world, use what they call the "sand bag." 
That is, they paint over the signs giving the 
prices of tonsorial work and proceed to charge 
just as much as they can get. 

After seeing the fine parade of the carnival 
season, I left New Orleans on March 20th and 
pushed on through the Gulf States. Tramp- 
ing for miles through the sands and swamps of 
the Suwanee River, in the central part of Flor- 
ida, I reached St. Augustine, America's oldest 
city, on April 3d. Then I went to Jackson- 
ville and from there into Georgia, seeing many 
alligators on the way and other evidences of 
the true tropical nature of this part of the 
country. All through South Carolina I heard 
the hoarse bellowing of the alligators and saw 
the natives working in the cotton and the corn, 
with a negro and a mule constituting a full 
team. When I reached North Carolina I had 
touched every state in the Union, with the ex- 
ception of the state of matrimony. Passing 
through Richmond and over the ground where 
was fought the battle of Seven Pines, I arrived 
once more at Washington, D. C, where I pro- 
cured a passport for the journey around the 
world. 

Going from the capital to New York, I had 



i66 An Endeavorer's Working 

made arrangements to sail from my native 
country on the 22d day of May, and that pro- 
gram was faithfully carried out. My last 
evening in America was spent at the home of 
W. M. Hollinger, a New York gentleman, to 
whose kindness much of the inspiration for 
undertaking such a task as the one before me 
might well be attributed. Tuesday morning, 
May 22nd, I procured my last post-ofEce cancel 
and then went to one of those employment 
agencies where the poor fellows who are obliged 
to "work" their way out of the country are 
shamefully imposed upon. The pictures these 
agents paint are not only not repulsive, but 
they are decidedly attractive, and many a chap 
has been led to believe that the trip over will 
be pleasant, even though he may have to earn 
his passage by working on the ship. 



BOOK II 



CHAPTER I 

Bound for the Old World 

T WAS informed that it would cost me $5 to 
-^ reach I^iverpool and work my way helping 
to take care of the stock. This proposition I 
accepted because there was not a better one in 
sight, and early the following morning was at 
the dock where I found a cosmopolitan gather- 
ing of fellows who were there for the same pur- 
pose I was. After we had signed the necessary 
papers I went aboard and made the acquaint- 
ance of the ship's boss of stock and found my 
quarters in the *'aft" of the upper deck. There 
I found twenty iron bunks in a space sixteen 
by twenty-eight feet, and under a ceiling that 
was only seven feet from the floor. The beds 
were made of burlap. 

After the twenty of us had been ushered into 
quarters, there was a wild scramble in the effort 
to pick out the best bunk in the best part of 
that miserable place. As we stacked our bag- 
gage, scant and ill-kept in many instances, the 
picture was not unlike that following a fire in a 
second-hand store. 

An hour after going on board, the farewell 
whistle blev/. The stately lines of New York 
were written against the sky, for dawn was 

169 



170 An Endeavorer's Working 

breaking. Presently the "Georgic" moved 
from the pier, passed the Liberty statue, and I 
was out on a stretch of water that separated me 
from my own country and was the beginning 
of a hazardous future that contained little of 
certainty and promise for me. 

Having dropped anchor in order that the cat- 
tle might be taken on board, the animals were 
loaded from cattle tug-boats, and then my first 
active duties on board a ship began. All that 
had passed the inspection and wore the steel 
labels of approval in their ears were taken on. 
By nine o'clock 900 head had climbed the 
steep shoot from the tugs and were comfortably 
arranged for their voyage to foreign shores. 

My first work was to give timothy hay to 
these traveling evidences of Uncle Sam's mate- 
rial prosperity, most of which had come from 
the states west of the Mississippi River. When 
the dinner bell rang my fellow "steer hostlers" 
and myself lined up in front of the steward's 
room and received articles which were to con- 
stitute our eating and sleeping outfit on the 
journey across. Upon presenting my card I 
received a tin plate, an iron knife, a fork, a 
pewter spoon, a large tin cup and a blanket. 
Then we went to our gloomy quarters into 
which the light crept only through the fore- 
mast port holes, and proceeded to get the 
first meal. The table was let down from 



Journey Around the World 171 

the ceiling and had been put in position before 
we arrived. In the middle of it sat a huge tin 
dish pan containing a conglomerate ''stew" 
that had been made from every sort of scraps 
from the galley. Each man made a rush for 
his portion of the contents of the pan. Then 
came a basin filled with cold biscuits, and sad 
ones, too, and a big can of what some kind 
friend told me was coffee. It was an identifica- 
tion that I could not conscientiously indorse. 

They called this meal breakfast. Any other 
name would have done as well, and any other 
kind would have been as bad. It is the gen- 
eral supposition on these steamers that those 
who work their passage are individuals who are 
obliged to go that way or not at all, and there 
is therefore no effort made to give the poor 
chaps more than enough to barely exist upon. 
On that first morning every man in our rather 
unhappy crowd held back when the work of 
cleaning up the dishes and the board that 
served as a table was suggested. The others 
showing no disposition to perform this neces- 
sary task, and there being no orders to compel 
any certain ones to do it, I proposed to an 
Englishman whose looks I rather liked, that 
we make the start. He agreed, for he was 
bright and cheerful, while I was there for the 
purpose of getting all of the experience out of 
the journey that I possibly could. So we pro- 



172 An Endeavorer's Working 

cured a bucket of hot water and I urged the 
crowd, in as cheery words as I could command, 
to fall in and help. The few of us washed the 
tin dishes, which bore an English flag and a 
white star, this being an English ship, and 
having finished our domestic duties I returned 
to the cattle. 

While at work that day the boss asked me 
whether or not I had ever worked with horses. 
When I informed him that I had, he took me, 
with two other men, and put us in charge of 
fifty-one horses, there being 317 head on board. 
After a while came the sound of the dinner bell, 
and with my steward companion I took a large 
tin pan and went to the galley, returning with a 
quantity of potatoes cooked with the "jackets" 
on, a pan of soup and another of roast meat. 
As we passed the open doors of the officers' 
quarters I peeped in and there saw, inviting 
and tantalizing to the eye and taste, a table 
covered with snow-white linen, costly dishes 
and -an abundance of toothsome viands. The 
comparison made with our stinted lot, lacking 
even bread to eat, was unavoidable and was one 
of the few times that I had entertained almost 
bitter thoughts on account of the inequality of 
conditions and the misfortunes of those who, 
in many instances, deserve plenty more than 
those who possess it. 

Everything went tolerably smooth at the 



Journey Around the World 173 

second meal, if the mad rush for the roast meat 
be not taken into consideration. It was quite 
palatable, and the men who were to eat it 
showed more or less the hoggish disposition 
that is so prevalent in the human race. 

The work of attending to the horses was to 
my liking, for I have always loved this animal 
above all others. We could not let them lie 
down, as the cattle did, for a horse would die 
from fever if he reclined during the trip, and 
he must therefore stand in a stall too small for 
him to lie down in throughout the entire voy- 
age. It is fortunate for the horse that nature 
has made it possible for him to sleep standing, 
and doubly fortunate for horses that are obliged 
to cross the seas. 

The supper bell rang at 5:30 o'clock, and 
again we visited the galley. This time we 
returned with beef stew, bread which was difS- 
cult to swallow, and tea. Our table manners 
had improved that day, and at the evening meal 
we were quite decently behaved. When bed- 
time came I found that my blanket had been 
stolen, and some of the others had had the 
same loss. We appealed the cases to Burgin, 
who said that I, being a horseman, should go 
to the horse department and live there. Thus 
the loss of the blanket proved to be good for- 
tune, for I would be much better situated with 
the men who were regular employees on the 



174 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

ship, and who were called, therefore, "paid 
men." And so, in those surroundings, I re- 
tired for my first night's sleep on the wide 
ocean. It was restful and refreshing, and at six 
o'clock I felt the touch of my "straw boss," 
Mike somebody, and we walked down to the 
narrow alley which is a veritable picture frame 
of horseheads. The unhappy animals were not 
able to eat the feed that we prepared for them. 
They were seasick and getting farther and far- 
ther away from home. 

I did not have the opportunity to "sun" 
myself during leisure hours, as the other men 
did, for I had taken up a special course of vet- 
erinary work, taking care of horses that needed 
extraordinary attention, and at every time 
possible availed myself of the opportunity to 
learn about the countries toward which I was 
traveling. Most of my companions were for- 
eigners, and I therefore had a good chance to 
become acquainted with the value of coins, 
words commonly used, customs with which I 
would come in contact, and other matters of 
which I knew almost nothing. This knowl- 
edge, acquired in such a practical way, proved 
of inestimable value later on, and I was not 
sorry that some of the pleasures of the ocean 
voj'age had been taken away by duties that 
proved to be worth much more. 

At a distance of three hundred miles from the 



Journey Around the World 175 

shore, I was still not seasick, and hopes were 
high that this experience would be avoided. I 
had fared very well since leaving the company 
of the "stiffs," as the men who work their 
passage across are called, and joining the ranks 
of the "paid men," without pay. There was 
no difference in the food, but it was a pleasure 
to have a system even for eating such humble 
fare and to have a program for the dish-washing 
and limited cleaning processes, menial tasks 
though they were. 

Some of these "stiffs" are not what their 
names indicate. A little young Englishman 
who occupied a bunk near me was a graduate 
of Cambridge College, while the one who helped 
me to wash the dishes had been for years a 
prosperous traveling salesman in the United 
States, but had "spent his substance in riotous 
living." Their lack of practical knowledge 
about simple hard work was always amusing, 
although their invariable tendency to do a 
thing just the wrong way was frequently pitiful. 

Our chief steward was a Catholic and com- 
pelled the rest of us, regardless of religious 
views, to live up to his eating habits on 
Fridays. So it was that we were given a pan 
of half-cooked oatmeal, tepid coffee and cold 
bread for breakfast, with the same lack of 
nourishing food to characterize the rest of the 
meals for that day. The next "mess" was 



176 An Endeavorer's Working 

composed of codfish witli some kind of liquid, 
which perhaps the cook did not understand, 
poured over it, a pan of potatoes with the covers 
on and without coffee or bread. And all this 
deprivation for the sake of a practice that is 
supposedly a part of religion. The steward 
may have been a devout man, but our hungry 
stomachs were hardly ready to indorse devout- 
ness of his particular variety. For supper we 
had that mysterious conglomerate, with a name 
that hides a multitude of doubtful ingredients — 
hash; in addition there was a sorry sort of bread 
and an invalid species of tea. The evening 
meal was enlivened by a fight between two 
Irishmen, one of whom was knocked over the 
table almost into the hash bowl. If he had 
fallen in, his presence could not have made the 
hash worse. The trouble blew over quickly, 
however, and in an incredibly short time the 
affair was forgotten and each man was singing 
a tune of his own. 

On Saturday we reached the New Foundland 
banks, and at the same time I reached a stage 
that I had never before known. The smelling 
of the breakfast made me ill, and its presence 
upon my stomach made me miserable. The 
crisis came soon, and I added liberally to the 
food supply of the fish that ventured our way. 
I was seasick, and my case was a sincere one. 
One might as well try to explain thought or 



Journey Around the World 177 

sound waves as to attempt to make clear the 
true meaning of seasickness. It is easily apart 
from everything else. It stands in a class of 
which it is the sole member. There was no 
desire to live, no desire to travel around the 
world, or to see the wonders I had started out 
to know. I could not eat, and a bucket of 
water weighed like the same quantity of lead. 
Still the bosses expected the same amount of 
labor, of which there was more to perform, the 
water having washed over the sides of the 
vessel and into the stalls where the horses were. 
It was as bad as ever on Sunday. Although 
the skies were clear, we had not yet crossed the 
"banks," and the sea was rough. The usual 
work was done on Sunday and there was no 
observance of the day. The officers of this 
"Georgic," of the White Star Line, seemed to 
care little for other men, and nothing for God. 
The sub-bosses cursed everybody and every- 
thing. The ship's atmosphere reeked with 
profanity. The surroundings were never up- 
lifting. Even a communion with nature under 
such circumstances was not satisfying. I was 
provoked when a seafaring man, in rough 
language, tried to tell me, who had been raised 
in the West and knew more about such things 
than he knew were in existence, how to feed 
hay to horses. It was all the more exasperat- 
12 



178 An Endeavorer's Working 

iiig wheu I was seasick, and tired of the whole 
world and all there was therein. 

Having recovered from the attack, I ate a 
little plum pudding — made of prunes. Monday 
being wash-day, my garments were cleansed, 
by myself; and hung upon a piece of rope, with 
baling wire for clothes-pins. When I was not 
feeding horses, playing laundryman or washing 
dishes, I was barbering, receiving pay in 
English money. 

I had heard, before undertaking this journey, 
that there was no law on the sea, and my ex- 
periences on the "Georgic" almost convinced 
me that the statement was true. The men who 
were working their passage across were treated 
shamefully, and not at all as human beings 
deserve to be treated. The paid men on the 
ship never address the "stiffs" in a manner 
even approaching civility; and the latter are 
deprived of every convenience that it is possible 
to keep away from them. There was even an 
attempt to keep the wash-rooms locked, and in 
a dozen ways the daily life of the unfortunate 
was made wretched. Several times the poor 
fellows appealed to the captain of the ship, but 
that officer was always so burdened with unfin- 
ished business, much of which came no nearer 
the finish as the days went by, that he merely 
dismissed them by telling them to "come 
around again." 



Journey Around the World 179 

CHAPTER II 
In the British Isles 

THE last day of May was a beautiful one 
indeed, and all eyes were turned toward 
the north, for we had been told that land would 
be sighted on the following morning at sunrise. 
Friday, at daybreak, in fulfillment of the happy 
prophecy made the day before, we beheld the 
coast of Ireland. For the last time I put in two 
hours of hard work at the bottom of the fourth 
hatch, getting the feed for the horses on the 
upper deck. As land drew nearer the uproar 
in our quarters increased. Each man was 
anxious to leave the vessel and set foot on solid 
earth again. At sunrise we were near the west 
coast of England, and in a short time the 
"Georgic" was anchored in the river Mersey, 
which flows through Liverpool. In that city, 
through the hazy distance, could be seen 
castles and turrets and innumerable sights 
strange to the eyes of a boy who had known the 
old world only in books and dreams. The 
horses were unloaded at the Canada dock, and 
it was there that I first stepped upon British 
soil. The trip had consumed eleven days, and 
had certainly been a new and valuable expe- 
rience, 



i8o An Endeavorer's Working 

After stepping upon the dock and bidding 
farewell to the men who had been my compan- 
ions during the journey, I took an elevated 
railroad train toward the heart of lyiverpool, 
which is unquestionably an old-fashioned city. 
The horse-car is a common sight, the cars be- 
ing of the omnibus style, two stories high. 
The buildings are dark, old and forbidding in 
appearance, as a rule, and seldom more than 
four or five stories high. At St. John's mar- 
ket, the largest retail market in the world, the 
stranger obtains a good idea of how England is 
fed, although the output of the farms and the 
packing-houses would suffer by comparison 
with the same industries in this country. A 
stockman with whom I conversed expressed 
the opinion that it would not be long before 
the United States killed all of its cattle before 
shipping them. More and more my own coun- 
try is being looked upon as the great feeder for 
the world. 

Truly I felt like a stranger in a strange land, 
and even while visiting places of great inter- 
est there came over me a frequent and inde- 
scribable feeling of loneliness. When I asked 
how far it was to a certain place, I was invari- 
ably told that it was so many minutes' walk, 
lyittle incidents of this kind were constant re- 
minders of the fact that I was not at home, 
and that my ways were different from the ways 



Journey Around the World i8i 

of those who were about me iu such great num- 
bers, without giving relief from the sensation 
that I was alone. 

Sunday morning I boarded a ferry on the 
Mersey River and went across to Beaconhead, 
where I attended services at the Brunswick 
Wesleyan Church, and in the afternoon rode in 
one of the odd English railway coaches to 
Chester. These coaches are divided into three 
apartments, first, second and third class, there 
being room for eight persons in each apartment. 
The entrance is at the side of the coach. I 
occupied a plush seat in the third class, my 
fare to Chester and return being, in our money, 
forty cents. 

The old Roman wall, built in the year '6i, 
the great cathedral, and King Charles's Tower, 
each having associated with it memories of the 
distant past, awoke noble sentiments and in- 
spired a feeling of reverence for the city which 
had been established long before Liverpool was 
counted more than a little fishing village of 
mud huts. 

Bank holiday in Liverpool was celebrated by 
a liberal display of the British colors and a 
general cessation of business. By noon the 
country people had arrived for the gayeties and 
the city was crowded. A peculiarity of a 
holiday crowd in this country was that the 
young people seemed to be exceedingly "soft" 



i82 An Endeavorer's Working 

and "spoony." It was not an uncommon thing 
to see a young man walking down the street 
with his good strong arm around the waist of 
his best girl, and frequently, while resting from 
the laborious task of parading up and down the 
crowded thoroughfares by sitting in whatever 
seat might offer, they would kiss each other, in 
defiance of the supposed rules of Cupid's eti- 
quette and without regard to the number of 
persons who might be watching them. Holi- 
days are the only times when many of the 
young people of England are able to have the 
pleasure of each other's company, and as holi- 
days are not so numerous as they are in our 
own country, they evidently believe in making 
hay while the sun shines. 

In the evening of that holiday I purchased a 
steerage ticket for myself and my bicycle for 
Dublin, the cost being one dollar. I had been 
in Liverpool three days. Cork was the desti- 
nation of the steamer upon which I was a pas- 
senger when Liverpool was left behind. The 
holiday merriment had not yet died away and 
the crowd on the steamer was a happy one in- 
deed. We all went down into the ship and the 
women were given one room and the men an- 
other. In the apartment where I was, there 
were about twenty-five men, and every one of 
them, save myself, had a clay pipe in his 
mouth. It was a thoroughly good imitation of 



Journey Around the World 183 

au Irish wake, with some smoking, others 
drinking and others quite lifeless upon the 
floor. The bad liquor soon had a deadening 
effect upon all the crowd and it was then possi- 
ble to lie down and sleep in peace. 

From the capital city of Ireland, which is 
brightened by many attractive spots, I traveled 
north through Castlenook and several other 
typical Irish villages. The houses are made of 
stone and mud and are whitewashed. The 
roofs are of straw and the barns adjoin the 
houses. Chickens, ducks and goats are given 
liberty to roam where they please, and they 
generally please to mingle with the children in 
the little yards, or in the tiny kitchens in close 
proximity to the barus. 



184 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER III 
A Typicai. Irish Homk 

One; day I was welcomed into one of these 
diminutive Irish homes. There had been 
a hard rain, and I was drenched and muddy- 
when I approached the house. There were two 
bright-eyed girls — Irish girls being proverbially 
bright-eyed — and an old gentleman. One of 
the girls informed me that they did not have 
much for dinner, while the old gentleman said 
that I was welcome to the best they could offer. 
There were boiled eggs, bread and butter and 
water. When I asked one of the girls how 
much the charge for the meal was, she replied 
that I might give whatever I chose. I handed 
a sixpence to her and she was satisfied. 

At Kells there are the ancient church and 
yard, the old tower and a number of crosses 
that are supposed to have been placed there in 
the fifth century. In this section I was passing 
over fine gravel roads through a rich grass coun- 
try. Many cattle are raised there, but on a 
small scale when compared with the immense 
ranches of the middle west of the United 
States. 

In Caven County, at the home of a Mr. A. 
F. Byers, I went out for the purpose of seeing 



Journey Around the World 185 

how mud turf was made. This fuel is found in 
the bogs and is dug to a depth of ten or twelve 
feet. The mud is thrown on the bank and 
mixed with water and is then spread out in a 
layer about eight inches thick. It is then 
marked by hand into loaves seven inches wide 
and ten inches long. I got to understand the 
method quite well, for I was soon in the mud 
up to my knees, making the loaves with my 
own hands. After the marking the turf lies 
in the sun for two months, at the end of which 
time it is ready for use. 

For dinner, at the home of Mr. Byers, we 
were given potatoes, greens and rabbit, all of 
which had been cooked over the turf fire, and 
later in the day we ate mush and milk from a 
large kettle, each person helping himself. In 
order to get closer to the lives and habits of the 
people, I "went visiting" with Mr. Byers, and 
during a series of calls in the homes that nestle 
between those beautiful Irish hills I was sur- 
prised to know what a poor conception they 
have of America. They judge the United 
States by what they have heard others say con- 
cerning New York City, and one Irishman 
asked me if there were many men like Jesse 
James on the Bowery in New York. 

Belfast is the most modern city in Ireland, 
and I reached it after an interesting journey 
through a section where I had been given 



i86 An Endeavorer's Working 

cheerful hospitality every da5^ L^et no one say 
to me that the countrymen of Ireland are slow- 
to entertain the stranger or that they are pos- 
sessed of the least symptom of selfishness. 

At Belfast I went aboard the steamer Alli- 
gator to sail for Glasgow, Scotland, and it was 
raining when I went ashore with my bicycle. 
I found a hostelry called Beck's Temperance 
Hotel, the other hotels being called public 
houses and having generous bar attachments. 
On this Saturday I found work in a Glasgow 
barber-shop, and for the first time knew what 
it was to do tonsorial work in the old, primitive 
way. The chairs in which the customers sit 
while being shaved are ordinary straight- 
backed chairs, with a hard head-rest attached 
to the back. The customer sits as erect as 
though he were in church or posing for a pho- 
tograph. There is not such a thing possible, 
under these conditions, as a "luxurious" shave. 
A small boy, whose touch is not always gentle, 
puts a towel around the customer's neck and 
lathers him. As fast as the "victims" are lath- 
ered the "shavers" begin on a new face, scrap- 
ing off the hair and then permitting the cus- 
tomer to get up and wash his face. There were 
two boys to lather and three of us to use the 
razors. My American methods found no sym- 
pathy there, for I did not work rapidly enough 
to suit the proprietor of the shop. Faster and 



Journey Around the World 187 

faster my razor flew, rougher and rougher it 
hewed its way ' through the stiff growths of 
beard, more and more the owner of the place 
urged me on to quicker efforts, and still the 
victims in the chairs did not complain. They 
were accustomed to rough treatment. A com- 
fortable shave probably would have been a new 
experience for all of them. By the time I had 
attained the rate of scraping a Scotchman every 
three minutes I thought I was doing well 
enough. The impatient proprietor, however, 
still was not satisfied, and I told him to find 
another man. He did, and that ended my first 
experience in one of the barber-shops of the 
United Kingdom. I received two shillings for 
my two hours' work. 

The Scotch people also treated me hospita- 
bly and are always delighted to have the privi- 
lege of entertaining a "Yankee." On Monday 
I made a seven-mile tour of Glasgow under- 
ground, the trip costing two pence. Then 
came an experience of several days in the coun- 
try districts of Scotland, all of which was very 
enjoyable. The country houses are built of 
sandstone and have tile roofs, the villages being 
very close together. I received a hearty wel- 
come in a small stone cottage about three miles 
north of the Forth Bridge, which is at South 
Queensbury, a village on the bank of the Forth 
River, ten miles from Edinburgh. The dwell- 



i88 An Endeavorer's Working 

ing was a most charming place. The meals 
were cooked over a grate fire, the rooms were 
clean and coz}', and there was a tall, old-fash- 
ioned clock to tell of generations that had de- 
parted. I felt much at home, too, when I 
learned that my hostess's name was Anderson, 
and she gave assurance of a warm heart by 
saying that it was a real pleasure to entertain a 
stranger. 



Journey Around the World 189 

CHAPTER IV 
Thinning Turnips in Scotland 

REACHING the Firth of Forth Bridge, I 
learned that there was work to be had 
helping the farmers to thin their turnips. As 
I was open to an engagement of any honest 
kind, I decided to secure employment of this 
sort if possible. I not only wanted the wages, 
but I desired to get an insight into the life of 
the hired man of Scotland and to learn every 
thing possible about the so-called "common 
people" of that country. Knocking at the 
door of the first mansion, or "castle," I came 
to, I was met by Mr. Sterhouse, the owner of 
the place, who said in reply to my application 
for employment that his crops were all in, and 
that he saw no chance to give me work. My 
appeal was earnest, however, for I told him 
that I was exceedingly anxious to get to lyon- 
don, and his faith in me seemed to be strong. 
This was borne out by the fact that he said: 
"To show my faith in you I would sooner lend 
you a half sovereign (about $2.50) and you can 
take my card and send the money to me at 
your convenience." Such a display of confi- 
dence, despite the fact that I was a total stran- 
ger, almost overcame me, but I accepted his 



190 An Endeavorer's Working 

generous proposition and thereby pleased the 
kind-hearted old gentleman. Mr. Sterhouse 
showed me through his house and barns and 
treated me as well as though I had been his 
guest by invitation. 

At the home of James Hill I applied later for 
employment, and the master of the place was 
surprised to learn that I would be willing to 
accept any employment that might be offered. 
He informed me that he had no place where 
he could "put me up," but told me to ask the 
coachman whether or not he could take care 
of me during my stay there. The coachman 
agreed to the proposition, and I found a very 
pleasant living place. My work was thinning 
turnips. In addition to myself, the farm 
"help" consisted of five men and seven women 
and girls. We each took a row of turnips, and 
the moment I took the hoe in my hands and 
showed an inclination to work, I was robbed of 
the title of "gentleman." That fact did not 
worry me, however, and among the workers in 
the turnip-field I was known by the plain name 
of "John." Many of the employees on this 
farm had been working there a long time, and 
the contrast between that country and this is 
shown by the fact that many of them had 
worked for years in order to rise to a position 
that pays twenty-five shillings, or $5 a week. 
I had frequently heard that living was cheap in 



Journey Around the World 191 

Europe. That is true, but the average Ameri- 
can would not accept the food supply that rep- 
resents a given expense in order to bear out the 
statement. In that part of the world I found 
that one egg, a little bread and butter and a 
cup of tea constituted a breakfast; potatoes, a 
stew of some kind, no bread and with water 
for a beverage for dinner; a bowl of mush, 
bread and butter and tea for supper. That is 
cheap living, it is true, but it is rather too 
faithful to its name in regard to the supply 
it represents. The laboring classes of Scotland 
know nothing about a good beefsteak and its 
customary trimmings for breakfast. To them 
one of our fifteen-cent meals in a restaurant of 
no pretensions would indeed be a feast. 

After our working hours we "common help- 
ers" enjoyed the evening sitting in front of the 
stone-house near the wide, smooth road and 
listening to the singing and the whine of the 
bagpipe. These people are almost care-free, 
and trouble rests lightly upon their shoulders. 
Saturday ended my experience as a helper in a 
turnip-patch. I laid down my hoe, which, by 
the way, bore the mark "U. S. A.," and pre- 
pared to leave my pleasant companions. I had 
had a beneficial experience in the richest part 
of Scotland; had become convinced that, much 
as they dislike to admit it, the Scotch farmers 
could not get along without wares of American 



192 An Endeavorer's Working 

make, and had lived close to tlie common peo- 
ple of that country, an experience which was 
to form the most helpful and valuable feature 
of all my travels. I received two shillings a 
day for my work, and out of that paid board at 
the rate of one shilling a day. Having relin- 
quished the hoe and abandoned my work as an 
ordinary laborer, I became a gentleman again 
and, turning my face toward Edinburg, spent 
the Sunday in that city. 

At the close of the day I returned to my 
"country home," where the bagpipe and the 
turnips and the free-hearted friends were, for 
living in Edinburg was expensive, and I had 
received an invitation to make the Hill home 
my headquarters as long as I remained in that 
part of Scotland. On Monday I bade my 
friends good-by, and although there was an 
earnest desire on the part of my employer that 
I remain another week and continue my work 
with the turnips, I resisted what was really a 
strong temptation and resumed my journey 
along the pretty shore of the River Forth. 

On the roads of Scotland it was not a diffi- 
cult task at all to ride on my bicycle at the 
steady rate of fifteen miles an hour. Good 
roads advocates in my country might find many 
valuable pointers in this charming country, 
where the highways are not only picturesque, 
but are kept in good repair and always ready 



Journey Around the World 193 

t' 
for any kind of vehicle in any sort of weather! 

At Galashiels it was easy to see what was 
being done with the busy waters of the little 
creek called Gala Water, for in this city of 
16,000 there are many factories, and their spin- 
dles, used in the manufacture of cloth, are 
turned by the waters of that stream. I was 
then five miles from Melrose and had two long 
hills to walk, but the rest of the trip was down 
grade and I was soon in the city of the famous 
Dry burgh Abbey. At 9 o'clock I had engaged 
quarters in a temperance hotel, over the door of 
which appeared the familiar name of Anderson. 
A pretty Scotch lassie answered my ring at the 
bell, and I was ushered into a neatly-carpeted 
hall. The young woman informed me that the 
price for lodgings would be two shillings. I 
told her that I did not desire to engage an en- 
tire suite, and the force of the remark was not 
altogether lost, for in a moment we had agreed 
upon *'one and six," which being interpreted 
means 36 cents in our money. 

There was no lack of hospitality in this 
hotel, and I was soon acquainted with the 
young women and enjoying an evening in the 
snug parlor as thoroughly as though I had been 
a guest there for many days. 

13 



194 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER V 
At the Home oe Sir Walter Scott 

THE gate of the famous castle of Sir Walter 
Scott, at Abbotsford, did not open until 
ID o'clock in the morning, and it was therefore 
not necessary for me to rise early on Tuesday 
morning. The distance was three miles, which 
I made a-wheel, meeting a number of tourists 
who had come by coach to inspect the castle. 
In order to gain admission I had to part com- 
pany from another shilling, a whole day's profit 
in the turnip patch. I sat in Scott's chair, 
wrote at the table which he had used, and in 
other ways acted quite like a regulation tourist, 
despite my constant efforts to do things as a 
tourist would not do them. 

Melrose Abbey, which was founded in 1136 
by David L, is now in ruins. At the gate of 
Melrose Monastery I met a typical Englishman 
who, knowing at once that I was from Amer- 
ica, opened a conversation that was not in- 
tended to be pleasant. 

"Hello! Yank," he said, in a most impolite 
way. 

I responded as courteously as I could, and 
was rewarded by a string of abuse aimed at the 
United States in general. 



Journey Around the World 195 

"You have nothing but prairie grass in the 
United States," he said. *'You have no roads, 
you have no nothing." 

I overlooked the bad quality of his grammar, 
and replied with the energy which the truth 
always inspires: 

"ThOvSe prairies you speak of," I said, "pro- 
duce the bread and the meat that keep you 
Englishmen from starving. You are ahead of 
us, in some respects, in the matter of roads, 
but your roads were built before Columbus 
could raise the money he needed to carry him 
across to the New World, which has so far out- 
stripped your old one. *Yank' has got so far 
ahead of you that you never will catch up. 
You have to use Yankee implements on your 
farms — ' ' 

I was not half through, but my English 
friend had evidently heard enough, for he in- 
terrupted by asking where I intended to go 
after I left Melrose. I told him I was on my 
way to London. His natural tendency toward 
boastfulness overcame him again, and he said, 
with a display of something that was dislike 
for my country rather than pride in his own: 
"You want to look out when you get there. 
They are looking for 'Yanks' like you, and re- 
member there is only one L,ondon in the world. ' ' 

This gave me another chance. I told him I 
knew very well that there was only one lyon- 



196 An Endeavorer's Working 

don in the world, and that when the 'Yanks' 
could not find more "suckers" in their own 
country they picked them up in Loudon. "The 
Yankee detectives come to London and steal 
the badges from the coats of your detectives." 

A crowd had begun to gather around us by 
this time, and I saw that^such a conversation was 
out of place. So I paid a sixpence as an en- 
trance fee to the Abbey and went within for the 
purpose of inspecting that historic pile. When 
I emerged I met my English antagonist again. 
He wanted another round, and I was not un- 
willing to accommodate him. 

"Have you anything like that Abbey in 
America?" he asked, with a curl of his lip. 

He did not give me time to reply, but said: 
"You have a presidential election every four 
years, and everything is changed about too 
often." 

"You Englishmen," I replied, "have not 
been suited with our government since 1776, 
but the Yankees have been doing very well 
during the last 124 years." 

It may have been a cruel shot, but it silenced 
him and after we had shaken hands the English- 
man wished me well and we parted. 

After leaving Melrose I had a hilly country 
to travel over. The south border of Scotland 
is a great sheep country. The herds graze upon 
the great stretches of fine, rich grass. I stopped 



journey Around the World 197 

at the home of a shepherd named Hadley, and 
found a cordial welcome, a cozy home and a 
toothsome meal. When I offered to pay for 
what I had received, Mrs. Hadley refused to 
accept money, saying: "I may take lunch with 
you some time; you can't tell." I laid a few 
coppers on the table and started up the long 
hill. 



198 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER VI 
A Smile From Prince Edward of Wai.es 

SEVERAi, miles further on, at the Rede Water 
Inn, I took up a Newcastle paper and saw 
that the Prince of Wales, now the King of 
England, would be in Newcastle, the metropo- 
lis of the north of England, and that the royal 
procession would leave the central station at 
about noon on the following day. This was the 
opportunity I had hoped for, and after learning 
that I would have to travel forty miles in order 
to reach Newcastle, I started out the following 
morning. When I reached the little village of 
Belsay, thirteen miles from the city, I was 
driven to shelter by a hard storm. The shower 
was of brief duration, but the roads were 
muddy. It was then 10:15 o'clock, and if I 
was to see the Prince of Wales it would be 
necessary to make a rapid journey through the 
mud. With the mud flying on my back every 
foot of the next thirteen miles, I was a sorry 
spectacle to look upon a royal procession by 
the time I reached Newcastle, and began to 
fear that in such condition I might attract more 
attention than the prince himself. I had just 
half an hour in which to make myself present- 
able, and this was done with all possible speed. 



Journey Around the World 199 

In order that I might have a good vantage 
point from which to view the parade, I sought 
admission to a building where no fee was 
charged, but admission to which was gained 
only by the presentation of complimentary 
tickets. The doorkeeper heard the story of my 
travels, received one of my cards, and extended 
a most cordial welcome to enter. I therefore 
obtained a most satisfactory look upon these 
two royal faces, and am confident that the 
prince's eyes met mine, and that his head was 
bowed toward me, and that the princess be- 
stowed upon me one of her sweetest smiles as 
she and her husband rode under the royal arch 
with the cheer of thousands of subjects ringing 
in their ears. The object of the prince's visit 
to Newcastle was to lay the corner stone of a 
new hospital. 

I,eaving Newcastle I arrived at Durham, and 
was then in the very heart of "Old England." 
The buildings were of stately dimensions, and 
covered with the evidences of many centuries. 
On Thursday it was necessary for me to find 
employment, for my purse had been depleted 
by much sightseeing. Stopping at a fine old 
home where I was treated as courteously as 
could have been asked, I was offered employ- 
ment for three months, but was told that there 
was no work at hand for me for only a few 
days. I was entertained all night, however, 



200 An Endeavorer's Working 

and the next day journeyed on, jQnally reaching 
Buntingford, where I spent my last shilling for 
a bed, with only sixpence in my pocket for 
breakfast. Such a condition of the purse was 
enough to prove a source of anxiety, but I was 
approaching London, and felt confident that 
there I would fare at least well enough to insure 
cheap lodgings and modest meals. 



Journey Around the World 201 

CHAPTER VII 

At Work as a Barbkr in I^ondon 

^N Juue 26, 1900, I arrived in London ai; 
noon. After going to the general post- 
office for tlie purpose of having the cancellation 
stamp placed in my book, I realized that the 
first thing necessary for me to do was to find 
employment of some kind, at whatever wages 
might be offered. The very day I reached the 
greatest city in the world my faith in the future 
was borne out by something accomplished, for 
I secured employment in a barber-shop at 
"Munster Rd., Fulham, S. W." I carried my 
bicycle to the little room in the third story 
at the extreme end of the flat where I was to 
work. 

Tonsorially, London is far behind the new 
world. The barber-chairs are ordinary office- 
chairs, with unrestful headrests attached to the 
backs of them. A customer enters and throws 
his head back for the shaving process. Fre- 
quently he does not take off his little English 
cap. The barber is obliged to stand almost in 
front of the "victim." As soon as a man is 
shaved the barber is through with him. There 
is no perfume, hair oil, combing, mustache 
curling or fragrant sprays. The customer even 



202 An Endeavorer's Working 

has to wash his own face, aud it will therefore 
be readily seen that in London there is no such 
thing as a luxurious shave. The price of a 
shave is only two cents and a hair-cut is six 
cents. The barber's failure to give all of the 
careful treatment that one expects to find in an 
American shop can therefore be excused. There 
would be no profit in the business in England 
if more time were spent upon the men who pay 
little and receive little. 

Work in this shop was one of the most diffi- 
cult tasks of my life, and when Saturday night 
came I was a tired man indeed. I received on 
my first pay-day, the sum of eight shillings for 
four days' work. Of course my board was given 
to me as a part of the remuneration, or, rather, 
something to eat. It hardly deserved the name 
of board. It was more like a very thin shingle. 
I made arrangements to have two afternoons of 
each week for myself, and my final arrange- 
ment with the owner of the barber-shop was 
therefore board, room and ten shillings per 
week, all of which is equivalent to a little less 
than three dollars. 

Every hour that was mine to use as I pleased 
was well employed in studying the great city. 
To the people of this center of population Lon- 
don is like an unexplored country. The ones 
who live in it know, perhaps, the least about 
it. Next-door neighbors are absolute strangers. 



Journey Around the World 203 

Although the people are a part of the busiest 
life, they know little about it. 

The questions and answers were entirely new 
to me. For instance, when one asks the loca- 
tion of a certain place, he is told to *'go 
straightway to the top of the street, take the 
second street on the left, past the first public 
house, or saloon, and there you are right there." 
The streets of lyondon are confusing and irregu- 
lar, as they are in Boston. There are few 
straight streets. Little thoroughfares shoot off 
here and there, in the most unexpected and 
surprising fashion. The metropolitan police- 
man is one individual upon whom you can 
depend absolutely. He is faithful and general- 
ly competent, and yet his salary is only about 
I7.50 a week, while the "finest" in New York 
receive |ii6 a month. 

On Tuesday, June 28th, my first afternoon 
off from the tiresome work at the barber-chair, 
I enjoyed a long ramble that was somewhat off- 
set by the information at the central post-office 
that there was no mail for me. Correspondence 
when one is abroad is the most disappoint- 
ing thing about traveling. It is like shouting 
"hello" into a telephone after the fellow at 
the other end of the line has rung off. 

I found it much more easy and satisfactory 
to use my bicycle while sight-seeing in lyondon 
than to depend upon the slow means of trans- 



204 An Endeavorer's Working 

portation there. The old-fashioned two-story 
omnibus cannot move very rapidly in the 
crooked, winding streets, but it is fast enough 
for the Englishman, for he has a fear of the 
wild, clanging, dashing things known as elec- 
tric street-cars. The crowded streets of Lon- 
don, despite what has been written about them 
to the contrary, are not to be compared with the 
streets of several cities of the United States. 
In this regard our country is far ahead of the 
metropolis of the world. Four or five big vehi- 
cles and several hundred pedestrians do crowd 
one of the narrow thoroughfares of lyondon, 
but transplant the same moving throng into 
one of the streets of New York, and one might 
be led to say that it v/as a dull day in that par- 
ticular part of Gotham. 

I found little difficulty in wheeling in the 
busy streets of London, although the "keep to 
the left" rule was confusing. One day I made 
a turn to the right side of a lamp post on the 
Strand. I was immediately approached by a 
policeman, with a strap holding his chin in 
place, and was ordered to dismount. He 
glared at me and said: 

"Do you know that you want to keep to the 
left?" 

When I reached London I had ridden on a 
bicycle 646 miles, and this was the first time I 
had ever been reproved. 



Journey Around the World 205 

The Thames River is called a ^'silver 
stream," but its waters are as clouded and un- 
inviting as those of the Missouri. One of my 
most profitable days in lyondon was that spent 
in the vicinity of the river inspecting the great 
bridges, riding under the river through a noted 
tunnel and taking in every point of interest as 
carefully as time permitted. 

Fourth of July in lyondon was not like the 
ones at home. I took from my grip a small 
American flag which I always carried with me 
and it was the only one I had seen that day. I 
walked through the streets and looked in vain 
for a sign of the "Stars and Stripes," but the 
banner was not there. On July 5th, however, 
the streets of Fullham were gay with the Union 
Jack and bunting of white and blue. It was 
Carnival day, but the special purpose of the 
celebration was to raise funds for the widows 
and orphans of the British soldiers who had 
fallen in South Africa. 

It was a gay day in Fullham. The people 
who rode in the wagons in the parade had long 
bamboo poles, to the ends of which stockings 
were attached. These could then be raised to 
the second story windows and the money 
dropped into the stockings by the observers of 
the parade, most of whom were generous in 
their gifts toward an object that was then ap- 
pealing strongly to the British heart. The 



2o6 An Endeavorer's Working 

merry-makers shook their mite boxes under my 
nose and tickled my ears with feathers. Their 
efforts on that carnival day to raise money for 
the needy were rewarded by the collection of 
about $1,350. From a spectacular standpoint 
this carnival could not compare with some of 
the great feast days in our American cities, but 
the people had none the less a good time. 

One day while I was shaving a policeman, I 
learned something of little importance, but 
nevertheless interesting. He told me that one 
man had had another man arrested for calling 
him Kruger, and that the person offering the 
"insult" had been fined by a magistrate. An- 
other customer asked me whether or not it was 
true that Chicago had within its borders a park 
fifty miles square. Of course he did not under- 
stand that the Yellowstone and Chicago were 
hundreds of miles apart. 



Journey Around the World 207 

CHAPTER VIII 
The Great Endeavor Convention 

THE next few days were busy ones, witli 
little journeys to Newgate prison, the 
Houses of Parliament, the Crystal Palace, the 
British Museum and various other places famil- 
iar to travelers and read about by every stu- 
dent. During these ten weeks in London I 
had visited many churches, even the whisper- 
ing gallery in St. Paul's cathedral. I enjoyed 
the long-looked-for luternational Christian En- 
deavor Convention, which was held in the Alex- 
andra Palace. In the throng of delegates I met 
people from many lands, and hundreds from 
my own. My C. E. pin and the small Ameri- 
can flag on the lapel of my coat received many 
welcomes from my fellow-Endeavorers. The 
familiar songs which filled the magnificent 
building, and listening to addresses from Fran- 
cis E. Clark and Chas. M. Sheldon, I could 
hardly realize that I was out of my own land. 
Alexandra Palace never had such a crowd of 
"Teetotalers," as we were called. I heard the 
echoes of the great convention as I visited 
C. E. Societies during my stay in the metropo- 
lis. I had seen the great city from rim to rim, 
having ridden more than three hundred miles 



2o8 An Endeavorer's Working 

on my bicycle in addition to the other methods 
of transportation employed. 

On August I2th, 1900, I resumed my travels 
and left London behind me. At Windsor I vis- 
ited the state apartments of Windsor castle. 
In the queen's stable I was told that one man 
took care of only two horses, and that there 
were about one hundred and fifty horses during 
the queen's visits to this one of her several 
palaces. When she went elsewhere about half 
of the live stock of the royal stables was taken 
along. 

Then I went to Oxford, reaching the univer- 
sity city in the rain at dark. I managed to 
reach Stratford-on-Avon between showers, and 
there spent a most interesting day in the places 
made famous by their association with the life 
of Shakespeare. 

At Northampton I spent my last Sunday in 
England. At Harwich I boarded the steamer 
"Chelmsford," on the Great Eastern line, for 
the trip across the channel to Antwerp. The 
night passed quickly and in peaceful slumber, 
and the rays of the morning sun kissed the 
hills of Belgium. It was necessary for me to 
clear my bicycle through the custom house. 
One of the officials asked for my club card, but 
this did not have half the effect upon him that 
my passport did, for when he saw the seal of 
the United States he immediately extended to 



Journey Around the World 209 

me and my bicycle a cordial welcome to the 
country, and there was no more red tape in 
connection with the incident of landing. 

14 



2IO An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER IX 
On the Continent 

AT Antwerp I first secured a letter from the 
American consul, written in Frencli, to 
assist me in getting the post-office cancel. At 
the cathedral I found a woman v/ho spoke 
English, and it was a welcome discovery, for I 
had not had breakfast on the boat, and it was 
difficult to make any one understand my needs. 
I bought a splendid French dinner for twenty 
cents, and then felt equal to the great task of 
making myself understood and of understand- 
ing those who might try to talk to me. 

From Antwerp I went to Brussels, riding on 
an excellent bicycle-path along the canal. The 
first word in French that I learned was 
"Water," for which I was obliged to ask be- 
fore I had proceeded far. The next word mas- 
tered was that which means post-office. 

From Brussels I started toward Waterloo, 
and the name came near being applicable to 
me, for I got on the wrong road and darkness 
overtook me in the woods. But I pushed on 
over the rough highways of stone, and fin- 
ally reached the historic village of Waterloo. 
I asked a man on the street if I could get a 
place to stay over night. I made him under- 



Journey Around the World 211 

stand by placing my head upon my hand and 
closing my eyes. He took me to an inn, but 
no man there could understand my wishes. I 
repeated the pantomime performance there and 
was finally shown to a room. 

I was up early the following morning and 
proceeded to learn as much as I could about 
how the people of that country lived. The 
woman of the house invited me into the kitch- 
en, where she was making coffee for breakfast. 
She wore wooden shoes and it was easy to keep 
informed as to her movements, for the shoes 
made a great clatter as she busied herself in 
the little room, attending to the duties of her 
humble household. My breakfast consisted of 
coffee, bread and butter and a thin slice of 
cheese. 

As soon as I had finished eating, I started 
toward the battlefield where Napoleon changed 
his mind while on his expedition to Russia at 
the head of 50,000 men, the great fire of 
Moscow having forced him back. 

At the little dwelling where I had left my 
bicycle I found a young girl of Belgium who 
could speak my own language, and it was at 
first a glad discovery. The joy was tempered, 
however, by the fact that she immediately be- 
gan to try to sell souvenirs to me, desiring par- 
ticularly that I should purchase a tiny pair of 
wooden shoes. 



212 An Endeavorer's Working 

"Buy these for your wife," slie pleaded. 

"I have no wife." 

"Then buy them for your sweetheart," she 
persisted. 

"I have no sweetheart." 

"Oh, what a funny American!" she laugh- 
ingly exclaimed, "with no wife and no sweet- 
heart!" 

I seized the opportunity that was thrust upon 
me and asked the damsel whether she would be 
my wife or my sweetheart. We compromised 
on being good friends, and she taught me a 
number of words that were of value during the 
next stage of my journey across Belgium. 

I crossed the field where the soldiers of Na- 
poleon struggled for nearly ten hours against 
the allied forces and where he met the defeat 
that put an end to his brilliant military career. 

In this country a great many dogs are used 
in the public highways for freighting. Three 
dogs, walking on a smooth road, can draw a 
surprisingly heavy load. It was harvest time 
and the women were the laborers. The women 
and the cows work together, pulling to the 
farmhouses the great golden sheaves that the 
women have cut. The old-fashioned flail is 
used for thrashing. All kinds of grain in 
Europe go by the name of corn. The Indian 
corn of America is almost unknown there, and 
none of it is raised. 



Journey Around the World 213 

Arriving at Turlemont at dark, my first task 
was to find a place to sleep. A native took 
me to a hotel where the people of the village 
type lodged. I secured a bed in a room where 
there were three men and their wives. As each 
one undressed, he or she threw the garments 
upon a line that hung in the room, the duty of 
the last one *'in" being to blow out the light 
which a solitary lamp gave. That task fell to 
me, as all the others had retired by the time I 
had mustered up the courage to disrobe. The 
next day I learned that one of the men and his 
wife were traveling with performing pigeons. 
One of the others was a mender of tinware. I 
was surely getting in close contact with the 
common people of Belgium. 

The system of getting breakfast was decid- 
edly new to me. Each person went to the 
market and bought whatever raw material he 
wished for his morning meal, returning to the 
hotel to cook it. My preference was eggs, and 
the cost of my bed and the meal, after I had 
held out a handful of change in order that the 
landlady might take therefrom whatever she 
desired to charge, was about sixteen cents. 

My first meal in Germany was eaten in the 
village of Julich. There I wasted no time in 
telling what I wanted, but sat down to the 
table and waited to be served. There was soup 



214 "^^ Endeavorer's Working 

first, and tlien there were beef, pork, potatoes 
and bread. It was really a good meal, and its 
cost was fourteen cents. 



Journey Around the World 215 

CHAPTER X 
On the Banks of the Rhine 

lUNDAY, September 2nd, I spent in Cologne, 
on the bank of the Rhine. Monday I 
was on my way out of the city and started on 
a journey up the Rhine. I was happy to meet 
Mr. E. C. Cauthorn, of Boston, and Mr. Lewis 
Strucke, of New York, with whom I made the 
trip. They expressed their baggage and we 
started over the smooth road. The New York 
lawyer was appointed "manager" of our little 
expedition, for he could speak German. The 
blue hills that skirt the Rhine remind one of 
the Hudson River scenery. During the trip we 
found apples, plums and blackberries, delicious 
and in abundance. 

When the time came to say farewell, I felt 
that I was parting from old comrades. We had 
shared the joys and sorrows of a hundred mile 
ride along the banks of the most noted stream 
in the world, and there is nothing that makes 
better friendships than such experiences. It 
was at Bingen that I changed my course and 
turned my wheel toward Paris. It was the time 
for hay harvest, and most of the laborers in the 
fields were women. The young men were 
scarce because they had been forced to escape 



2i6 An Endeavorer's Working 

the summer heat and the drudgery of the farms 
by becomiug soldiers. Thousands of them 
were wasting their time in trying to look hand- 
some and polishing the brass buttons on their 
splendid uniforms, while their mothers and 
sisters were laboring under the hot rays of the 
sun and performing tasks that ought to be re- 
served only for masculine brawn. 

The soldiers were still more numerous at 
Metz, which is but twelve miles from the 
French line. Saturday, September 8th, I 
reached the imaginary line that separates the 
two countries. It did not prove to be strictly 
imaginary, however, for I was stopped by the 
French guards and again produced my card and 
passport. Here I was given a ninety-day per- 
mit that was to enable me to remain in France, 
with a bicycle, for that length of time. 

The farmers of Europe do not live upon the 
land that they cultivate as the farmers of our 
country do. Instead, they huddle together in 
little villages, draw water from a common pump 
and gather under the roof at the public well for 
the purpose of doing their washing. Many 
women may be seen at one time at a large stone 
reservoir that is made level with the floor of the 
public shed, doing the week's "wash," and 
with plenty of happy company. 

The village of Fillery boasts of only one 
street. There are stone houses, with tile roofs, 



Journey Around the World 217 

on each side of the public road for half a mile. 
The places of business are a baker's shop, and 
two wine saloons. The people buy what other 
things they need from wagons which are sent 
out from the cities. The one place of worship 
is a Roman Catholic Church. There I was, at 
the close of the day and week, hungry and 
tired and able to say only a few words in 
French. I asked a man if he could find a home 
for me for the night. He began searching 
through the village, telling everyone he met 
that there was an American who wanted a 
place to stop. The inhabitants began to gather 
around me. I was apparently a great curiosity. 
While they were glad to see an American, the 
English being rather unpopular there, none of 
the villagers seemed to want to take me in. 
Finally, after I began to fear that my efforts 
were going to fail, an old woman wearing a 
white cap, who had been watching me in my 
efforts to make myself understood, beckoned to 
me to enter her house, in front of which we 
were standing. 

I pushed my bicycle through the wide door 
in the stonewall and entered a large room, with 
a ceiling of wooden beams. The floor was of 
rough stone, and to the right of the door was a 
large, old-fashioned fireplace. The kind old 
woman broke some fagots and, with the use of 
a blow-pipe, soon had a fire kindled on the 



2i8 An Endeavorer's Working 

hearth. Then she took down a piece of bacon 
and from another room brought two eggs. 
With the bacon and eggs there was a piece of 
French bread about four feet long, the French 
bread being made so that there may be as 
much crust as possible. As I started to eat the 
meal, my hostess went to a cave and brought a 
pitcher of home-made wine. When I indicated, 
by a sign, that I did not drink wine, she was at 
a loss to know what sort of chap I was. Her 
son entered soon, and when she had told him 
that the strange guest refused wine, he appeared 
equally perplexed. By the vigorous use of his 
hands he told me that the water which had 
been set before me was not to drink, but for 
cleansing purposes only. In the best way 
possible, I told them about my journeyings and 
let them read the letter which was written in 
French. They were deeply interested in all 
that I told them and showed them. The room 
into which I was ushered was clean and invi- 
ting, and in that French home I enjoyed a night 
of delicious slumber. 

Coffee and bread constitute the first meal of 
the day on the continent. As we sat down to- 
gether, Mrs. Nicholas, my kind old hostess, 
asked me, by the use of a calendar that hung 
near the window, whether or not I traveled on 
Sunday. When I made reply in the negative, 
she brought her Catholic prayer-book and 



Journey Around the World 219 

pointed toward the church. I assented readily, 
and the family seemed delighted to know that 
I would go to charch with them. The service 
was enjoyable, but it was not difficult to see 
that I was the chief point of interest in that 
village on that Lord's day. 

The noonday meal was made up of three 
courses, cooked in the old black kettle over the 
big fireplace. The first course consisted of 
soup, the next was vegetables and the third 
was meat. Dry bread and wine completed the 
Sunday feast. 

In the afternoon the men of the village gath- 
ered at the bowling-alley. There were several 
young people at the house that evening, each 
young man shaking the hands of each young 
woman and kissing her on both cheeks, the 
invariable custom in that part of the country. 
I don't know what I would have done if the 
salutations had been extended so as to include 
the young American guest. At 6 o'clock the 
bell rang for church, and after church we had 
the evening meal. The Sunday was wound up 
by the young people oi the village with a dance 
at the public hall. 

Monday morning I paid my bill. For all 
of that hospitable entertainment, when others 
were slow to open their doors to me, I was 
asked to pay the equivalent of sixty cents. 
That I counted it a bargain and paid it cheer- 
fully, need not be said. 



220 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XI 
Paris, the Gay and the Wicked 

ON the following day I was within twenty- 
five miles of Paris. To travel a hundred 
miles a day in that country is not a difficult 
task at all. 

At II o'clock in the morning, September 
i2th, I reached the Y. M. C. A. building, 14 
Rue de Trevise, in the city of fashion and 
folly. 

My face was sunburned to such a deep hue 
that all I needed was a few feathers to make 
me a proper addition to the pictures of Amer- 
ican Indians at the exposition. My cyclometer 
had registered 2,012 miles for the distance I 
had traveled since leaving the Atlantic steamer. 

I secured a position from the United States 
Commission, and had my name placed upon 
the exposition pay roll as a janitor. This was 
good fortune indeed, for with a pass in my 
pocket and a stipulated amount of money sure 
to come regularly — fifty dollars per month — I 
would be able to see the great exposition, as I 
had been hoping I would be able to see it. By 
this time I had learned enough French to keep 
from going hungry. I had learned to look out 
for bad money and bad men. 




swe;e;ping his way through the paris e;xposition. 



Journey Around the World 221 

The first Sunday spent in Paris I attended 
the American churcli near tlie Arch de 
Triomphe. It was more than a pleasure to be 
able to worship with people who were speaking 
my tongue, and who manifested a degree of 
sympathy for those who, like themselves, were 
far away from home. 

Others have said that Paris is wicked, and it 
is scarcely necessary for me to repeat it here. 
It is the fashion in Paris to drink wines and 
smoke cigarettes. Two-thirds of the sidewalks 
along the best boulevards are rented to wine 
dealers and used by them at the close of regular 
business hours. The gap between virtue and 
vice is greater in Paris than it is in either New 
York or London. One of the worst evils in 
connection with it all is the almost untram- 
meled system of licenses carried on by the 
French government. 

Even with all its splendors and greatness, 
the exposition grew more or less monotonous to 
those who saw it day after day and who had 
employment that became more or less a routine. 
Monday, November 5th, was my last day for 
work at the exposition. The "boys" were be- 
ginning to pack up. In the publishers' build- 
ing, where I was employed, they were singing 
"Good-by, gay Par-ee." On Tuesday my face 
appeared before the pay-teller's window for the 
last time. My companions wished me well in 



222 An Endeavorer's Working 

the continuation of my undertaking, and it 
was with a degree of sincere regret that fare- 
well was said. 

Crossing the River Seine, I rode along on 
the east bank to Vincennes. Fontainebleau, 
one of the most historic places in France, was 
next visited, one of the important reminders of 
other days being the table in the baptistery of 
Louis XIII, bearing the scar made by Napo- 
leon's knife when he signed his last peace 
treaty. In the forests around Fontainebleau 
the kings and queens of long ago made love. 
Everything has history associated with it. The 
French soldiers were encamped all around 
Fontainebleau, and from the recesses of the 
woods came the echoes of many bugle calls. 
In this section of the country many old men, 
old women and daughters could be seen work- 
ing in the beet-fields, while the stalwart young 
men were spending their years, five each, in 
the army. 

The postmistresses in the small towns of 
France were exceedingly trying upon the pa- 
tience, for the black eyes of each of them must 
scan the name of every town in my post-office 
cancel book. I presume I spent hours in wait- 
ing for them to satisfy their curiosity after they 
had performed the little favor I asked of them 
in regard to the cancellations of their own 
offices. 



Journey Around the World 223 

I had a great deal of trouble with, my bicycle 
lamp on account of having to use so many 
kinds of oil in it. There is a law in France 
which requires a bicycle to have a light at 
night, and the only way I could prevent the 
embarrassment of being stopped by policemen 
was to stop them first. So, when I saw an of- 
ficer I would ride up to him, ask him for a 
match, walk on a short distance and presently 
mount the saddle again and ride' away. The 
fickleness of the lamp and the abominable oil I 
had to buy were alone responsible for this in- 
nocent little plan of avoiding the censure of the 
sharp-eyed officers. 



224 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XII 

In the Alpine Country 

BEGAN to get into the foothills of the Alps 
and the road was a sort of half-and-half, it 
being necessary for me to walk up hill and pos- 
sible to walk down. It is said that when you 
have seen Paris you have seen France. With 
this assertion I cannot agree, for I was now in 
the most interesting part of the country. The 
glare and glitter and wickedness of the country 
had no fascinations for me. Far more attractive 
than the powdered women of the boulevards 
were the country maidens of the Alpine coun- 
try, sitting by the roadside knitting, while they 
watched the cows that were grazing near. The 
crops had all been gathered into the stone 
barns, which are under the same roofs as the 
houses. As for the culinary abilities of the 
peasants, I have seen four wholesome courses 
served from one black kettle, using only one 
plate to eat them from, while in Paris I have 
almost starved between courses and the changes 
of dishes. 

On the night of November loth I went to 
bed in a hotel on the summit of the Alps. The 
dinner was served in Paris style, and therefore 
unsatisfactory. The guests made fun of me 



Journey Around the World 225 

because I drank water instead of wine, and the 
fire in the stove was a poor excuse, and I was 
unable to drive away the chill that a drizzling 
rain and the high altitude had sent through my 
bones. With these conditions of physical dis- 
comfort I began the night, but the next morn- 
ing the unpleasant experiences were forgotten, 
for the weather was bright and cold. That day 
I walked through eight inches of snow for a 
distance of about three miles. 

It was a pleasure to begin the descent of the 
Alps, for I had walked about forty miles in 
making the ascent. It was pleasant, moreover, 
not to be bothered by insulting Frenchmen and 
their automobiles, as I had been in the valleys 
and on the plains far below. 

When I was ready to begin the descent, I 
procured a piece of cord and manufactured a 
"Yankee brake" for my bicycle. I tied the 
cord to the saddle-post and to the other end of 
the cord fastened a large stick of wood with 
bushy branches. This enabled me to run 
around the steep curves in perfect safety. 
After using this for about four miles, I took it 
off and was soon rolling up to the custom-house 
on the Switzerland border line. I was asked to 
lend the Swiss government eight francs while I 
entered the country with my bicycle. At the 
end of three miles I reached the city of Geneva, 
at the south end of the lake. At a hotel here 

15 



226 An Endeavorer's Working 

I met an Englisliman, the first man I had run 
across who could speak in my own tongue since 
I left Paris, a distance of 370 miles. Of course 
I could have found Frenchmen able to speak 
English, but I had learned to dodge the places 
where that language was spoken, it being the 
invariable rule that everything was higher in 
price at such places. The sign "English 
Spoken Here" nearly always means that they 
want to be paid for what they know, or profess 
to know, rather than for what they give in ex- 
change for money. 

On Monday, November 12th, I started south 
from Geneva, passing through another custom- 
house and receiving the eight francs which I 
had left as a forfeit upon entering the country. 
When I got into France again I found better 
roads, more modern improvements and a hap- 
pier people. 



Journey Around the World 227 

CHAPTER XIII 
Nice and Montk Carlo 

ON November i6tli I reached Nice, on the 
Mediterranean Sea. It had taken just 
ten days to travel from Paris to Nice, by way of 
Switzerland. I had made the distance of 682 
miles, crossing the Alps without a breakdown 
or a bicycle puncture. Several days were 
pleasantly spent at Nice, which is a great win- 
ter resort. Passing through Monte Carlo and 
visiting the celebrated gambling resort, where I 
was required to go through an extremely rigid 
inspection, I saw vice in its most gilded form. 
The gambling palace is one of the most beau- 
tiful buildings in the world, and the surround- 
ings are little in keeping with the woe that is 
frequently the lot of those who go there in 
search of fortune and leave penniless, with 
only a desire for death rather than the disgrace 
that is sure to follow their rash plunges for 
wealth dishonestly acquired. 

I was detained at Nice while waiting for my 
card in the * 'Touring Club de France," and 
while waiting there I made a little money sell- 
ing the Paris Herald^ the foreign edition of 
the New York Herald^ and printed in English. 
My customers were just over in the bay where 



228 An Endeavorer's Working 

the United States training ship Topeka was 
anchored, and the "blue jackets" were ready 
and eager to buy the newspaper wares I 
offered them. 

Buying my last coffee and rolls in France, I 
started on November 24th for Italy. Shortly 
after entering the country I stopped at a farm- 
house to get shelter from the storm, and was 
invited into a large stone dwelling with a dirt 
floor. A beautiful, black-eyed Italian girl 
asked me to take a chair. The young woman 
conversed fluently in German, Italian and 
French, and we had chatted brokenly for only 
a few moments when her mother began to take 
up some vegetables that were stewing in a pot. 
The fire over which the cooking was done was 
in a fireplace without a chimney, most of the 
smoke escaping through the door that had just 
swung wide for me. 

Sunday was spent in Genoa, and for Sunday 
dinner I had the popular feast of the lower 
classes of that country, macaroni and bread. 
After leaving Genoa, with a long, down-hill 
road before me, I had a very unhappy experi- 
ence with my bicycle tire, and was finally com- 
pelled to stuff it with wet rags. I had the 
assistance of a native in front of whose house I 
had stopped and who provided me with the 
necessary rags. Darkness came on before the 
task was finished, and we entered the house. 



Journey Around the World 229 

That tire held an amazingly large quantity of 
rags, and so great was the task that before it 
was finished the Italian housewife had cooked 
a large bowl of macaroni, and we stopped long 
enough to partake of this national food. We 
ate two dishes each, without bread and without 
seasoning. My host was a poor man who 
worked on the roads for two francs, or forty 
cents, a day. Whenever America was men- 
tioned his eyes shone with pleasure and his 
manner indicated that he would indeed be glad 
to come to this country, just as thousands of 
his countrymen were doing then and are doing 
still. 

The tire was fixed at last and I traveled 
on to another farmhouse, where I was given a 
night's lodging on a straw tick. The stone 
floor would have been acceptable, considering 
my weary condition. The next morning I con- 
tinued the journey down the mountain side, 
and the stuffed tire was a decided success. My 
cyclometer was certainly playing "rag time" 
at a merry rate. 



230 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XIV 

In Rural Itai.y 

IN a little country store the proprietor told his 
customers that I was a barber and there 
was an immediate demand for my services. I 
was kept busy for some time running my clip- 
l^ers and shears over Italian heads, but there 
was little demand for anything save the clip- 
pers, as the general rule was that they wanted 
their hair cut short. Nothing was said about 
the price I was to receive, but when I had fin- 
ished they each gave me twenty-five centimes, 
or five cents in our money. The old shop- 
keeper then agreed to keep me over night. For 
supper we had beef hash mixed with olives, the 
first beef I had tasted in Italy, and to me a 
novel way of preparing it for the table. The 
next course was cheese, bread and wine, 
although I created almost consternation again 
by substituting water for wine. After the little 
boys had read their grammar lessons to their 
father, they were sent to bed and the shop- 
keeper and three of his neighbors sat down for 
a game of cards. It was very cold, and as I 
had no way for warming my wet feet I asked 
that I be permitted to retire. The request was 
granted, and with the aid of the little tallow 



Journey Around the World 231 

candle over which I toasted my aching extrem- 
ities, I was soon more comfortable and slept 
soundly on a bed of corn shucks. Toward 
morning, however, the cold was so extreme 
that sleep was impossible. I had even cov- 
ered myself with strips of carpet from the floor, 
but this helped but little. 

A continuation of my journey led to the 
walled city of Pisa, where macaroni, beans and 
rye bread formed the bill of fare. At a farm- 
house three miles from Callesalvetti I stopped 
and asked for lodging. The door was opened 
by an aged man whose five children crowded 
near in order that they might have a good look 
at a foreigner. I was invited to enter and soon 
found that each member of the family was talk- 
ing to me in the evident belief that he could 
make me understand better than the others. 
The fact that an American was working in 
Italy was a puzzle that they could not solve. 
A large brass kettle, filled with yellow corn 
mush, was placed upon the fire, and the even- 
ing meal was under course of preparation. The 
mush cooked until it was so stiff that one of 
the strongest of the boys was barely able to stir 
it with a stick. When the mush was "done," 
or perhaps overdone, it was dumped out upon a 
wide board. It was then cut into strips by 
means of a thread, and the strips were scattered 
over the table in reckless fashion. I occupied 



232 An Endeavorer's Working 

a place at the end of the table and every possi- 
ble attention was paid to me. There was a 
dish of vegetables that I could not define, and 
we all fell upon the mush, holding it in our fin- 
gers. The stuff was almost as heavy as lead, 
and it was difficult to act as though it was 
being enjoyed. Dry bread was the last course. 
After I had clipped the hair of each male mem- 
ber of the family and two of the neighboring 
young men who had heard about me, the}^ each 
gave me sixty centimes, or six cents. After 
that I was shown to the barn, the adjoining 
room, and there retired with the cows and oxen 
for loom-mates. We all were under the same 
roof, however, the family being upstairs. I 
was on the lower floor, and the only complaint 
I had to make against my accommodations was 
that the rats were numerous and entirely too 
familiar. They used my bed for a race-track, 
and sleep was almost impossible anyhow, the 
soggy mush having proved more than even my 
strong digestion could stand. 



Journey Around the World 233 

CHAPTER XV 

In Rome with a S1.IM Purse 

^N December 4th I was just forty miles from 
Rome, and began to reel off tbe distance 
as rapidly as possible, eating rye bread while 
pedaling along. The dome of St. Peter's was 
visible while I was crossing the prairie twenty 
miles from the city. The villages were very 
far apart in this section of the country, and I 
had gone for miles without passing through a 
single one. At 3 o'clock I reached the south 
gate of the city and my cyclometer registered 
the 3,274 miles that I had traveled on the 
wheel in Europe. The last 316 miles had been 
covered with a tire stuffed with rags. 

My money had run short, and it was neces- 
sary to have employment. I had fared well 
under almost distressing circumstances, how- 
ever, for the Italians were the most hospitable 
people I had found since leaving Ireland. L<ike 
the people of Ireland, the Italians have r-^t 
much to offer, but such as it is it is given freely 
and in a way to make the recipient feel that he 
is welcome to all he receives. My first day's 
efforts to find work were not successful, and I 
was obliged to find lodging in a little place 
where the cost was the equivalent of ten cents, 



234 -^^ Endeavorer's Working 

and not far from the Hotel Grand Roma, where 
ray countrymen, who were not earning their 
way, were living in luxury. 

On the following day, while I was asking 
various English-speaking persons for advice as 
to how to secure employment, I was repeatedly 
advised to go to the American consul. I re- 
membered that the passport signed by Secre- 
tary Hay instructed the consuls of my country 
to ''pass and in case of need give all lawful aid 
and protection," and decided to take the advice 
that had been so often given. 

As I entered the oflQce of that dignitary, he 
said, in a very gruff manner, "Good morning, 
sir, what can I do for you?" 

I told him that I was out of money, and 
would like to find work. 

"You have no business coming to a place 
like this to look for work," was his reply. 

I told him that, having reached such a place, 
there was no other way to search for a chance 
to earn a livelihood, but his answer was that 
the only thing he could do for me would be to 
send me to Naples, the nearest seaport. He 
asked one of his clerks to write a letter to the 
city of Rome asking for a pass for me. I 
signed the letter, not knowing what it was. It 
was written in Italian. When I went to look 
up the address given in the letter I found that 
it was the general police station. When I saw 




A fe;w page;s from the; book of postmarks. 



Journey Around the World 235 

the waiting crowd the truth dawned upon me. 
I had been thrown upon the charity list, with- 
out my knowledge, by the man who was in 
Rome, representing our country, and whose 
prescribed duty was to "give lawful aid and 
protection." 

It was humiliating to be in such a crowd, 
and my indignation went to such a pitch that I 
decided to sell my belongings rather than suffer 
such an insult. I left the station and sold my 
clippers for fifteen francs, or $3. Then I pro- 
ceeded to look over Rome for two days, having 
learned how to exist at the minimum price. 

I^eaving Rome, I bought a third-class rail- 
road ticket for Naples, arriving there December 
7th. The remains of my bicycle were sold for 
fifty francs, or $10. To see goats milked in 
the streets was one of the interesting sights of 
Naples. Instead of taking the milk around in 
cans the goats are driven to the doors of the 
customers, who select the animal whose milk 
they want. Then comes the milking, with the 
purchaser watching the dairyman at his work. 
Sometimes the agile goats are required to climb 
two flights of crumbling stairs before they are 
milked. On Saturday, December 8, I boarded 
a train and went to the ruined city of Pompeii, 
and climbed Mount Vesuvius. 

I went to Brindisi, on the Adriatic Sea, 
arriving there on Sunday, and was just in time 



236 An Endeavorer's Working 

to witness the Virgin Mary celebration, with 
its fireworks and other kinds of noisy demon- 
stration, much as we have them in America on 
the Fourth of July. 

The condition of purse made it necessary for 
me to study the subject of navigation very care- 
fully, but then I found that I did not have 
enough money to buy a third-class ticket to 
Athens. I purchased a third-class ticket to the 
next stopping place, paying ten francs for it. 
The point was located on a small island under 
the Grecian government. For lunch I had 
bread, cheese and figs, food not being included 
in the third-class rate on short voyages in that 
part of the world. I was shown down into a 
hole of almost total darkness, where there were 
several bunks with ticks stuffed with straw. 
Having no blanket or traveling shawl, as pas- 
sengers of that class are supposed to have, it was 
exceedingly rough, and the little steamer Scalla 
tossed almost helplessly. After a few hours in 
the stuffy place I climbed the stairs and went 
on deck for a breath of fresh air. I found a 
place on deck, out of the fierce wind, and sat 
down to a meager breakfast. The conditions 
were all very miserable. The mountains of 
Turkey were on one side of the body of water 
through which the vessel was plowing, and the 
shores of Greece were on the other. At one 
o'clock in the afternoon the Scalla dropped 



Journey Around the World 237 

anchor at the pretty little city of Corfu and, 
stepping into one of the small boats, I paid one 
franc for safe landing on the Island. The men 
of the village wore pleated woolen skirts that 
came to their knees, their shins and knees 
being bare and unprotected. Some of them 
were driving two or three goats that were laden 
so heavily that the only portion of the anatomy 
visible was the tail. Small donkies and ponies 
were also burdened in the same manner, and 
helped faithfully in caring for the traihc of the 
busy town. 



238 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XVI 
As A HoTEi. Runner in Corfu 

ENTERING a barber-shop whose sign was a 
tin pan with a half moon cut in it, I found 
the fittings about as they were in the shops of 
London, and many European cities. The 
Greek barber was willing to give me employ- 
ment, but the wages were so small that he did 
not like to ask an American to accept what he 
was able to offer for my services. The old 
vegetable dealer who had acted as my inter- 
preter, being an accomplished linguist, told me 
that he could suggest a place where my knowl- 
edge of the English tongue would be of value to 
me, and said that a hotel in the city wanted a 
"runner" whose business it would be to solicit 
trade for the hotel from the men on board a 
British man-of-war that lay in the harbor. The 
old man took me to the Hotel Abundance, and 
the proprietor offered to give me twenty percent 
on every meal I sold as a result of my "rust- 
ling" for his house. I began work and dis- 
tributed cards among the British soldiers and 
sailors whom I met in the streets. A crowd of 
twenty of the jolly fellows said they would like 
to have some refreshments, so I led them to the 
hotel and almost shocked the proprietor by the 



Journey Around the World 239 

size of the crowd I was usliering into his dining- 
room. As soon as I had feasted, with the 
merry Englishmen, I went forth again to see 
how many more of the red jackets I could 
gather into the hotel. At the rate at which I 
had started the business was proving profitable 
for me, and besides that I was eating real food 
instead of the almost unbearable stuff I had 
frequently been forced to eat since reaching 
Italy. 

After a while I returned with another crowd 
of eight or nine, and the English lads, seeming 
to take a fancy to a "Yankee," invited me to 
visit them on board their ship, the Royal Oak. 
The proprietor of the hotel, pleased over my 
success as a solicitor for business, offered me, 
through an interpreter, the use of a small boat 
and boatman that would be at my command at 
any time. On Wednesday I took this private 
boat and made a trip to the man-of-war, receiv- 
ing a very cordial welcome, and being shown 
every possible courtesy. 

That night, having strengthened my purse 
by work as a hotel runner, I boarded the little 
Greek steamer Samos for the ancient city of 
Athens. I had earned eighteen drachmas in 
Corfu, the monetary value of the drachma 
being less than fifteen cents in American 
money. For seven drachmas I secured a deck 
passage to Athens, this class of transportation 



240 An Endeavorer's Working 

giving me the right to sleep in the most com- 
fortable spot I could find on the deck. Having 
made friends with the cook, I helped him to 
peel the potatoes, and in return he gave me 
two of his blankets, by the use of which I was 
able to make a much softer bed than I supposed 
I would have when I paid the required fare. I 
found a cozy spot on the warm side of the big 
boiler in the engine room and used my bicycle 
case for a pillow. 

At daybreak the cook served me with a cup 
of Greek coffee that was so thick that it would 
scarcely run, and at 8 o'clock, after inviting 
me into the gallery where he was serving 
breakfast for the captain and other officers, he 
gave to me a plate which he had filled from the 
dishes partaken of by the men in authority. I 
have always found that it is a wise plan to keep 
"on the good side" of the cook, and this expe- 
rience was one proof of the statement I make. 
I earned a few pieces of coin by honing razors 
for some of the officers and members of the 
crtw. 



Journey Around the World 241 

CHAPTER XVII 

From Athkns to Egypt 

'EAR Athens I paid the equivalent of five 
cents to be landed from tlie steamer, and 
proceeded to walk to the city, which is a con- 
siderable distance from the seaport. A walk of 
six miles brought me to the historic place. 
Alexandria, Egypt, was the place I desired to 
visit next, and I learned that it would be a 
week before a steamer left for that point. This 
was a serious proposition, for I had no visible 
way of making wages during a stay of such 
length in Athens. I decided to ask the advice 
of the American consul general, the Hon. D. 
E. McGinley, who, I supposed, was ready, as 
all consuls are presumed to be, to give what- 
ever assistance he could to one of his own 
country who was really deserving of help. In 
reply to my statements, this countryman of 
mine, in a way that was harsh and unpleasant 
to my ears, said: "How do I know that you 
are an American?" 

I showed my passport and other papers to 
him, all of which were handed back with the 
remark, "I cannot do anything for you." 

I told him that I was not asking favors, 
and wanted only a chance to labor during my 

16 



242 An Endeavorer's Working 

stay in Athens. I asked tliis public official, 
holding his commission under the authority of 
the President of the United States, for a letter 
that would assist me in getting work in Athens 
or securing transportation to Alexandria. 

"I am not allowed to do that," he said. 
"You must get along as best you can." He 
offered me, then, the equivalent of thirty cents, 
and advised me to get back to "God's coun- 
try" as quickly as I could, and not to go to 
Egypt. I left the office over which the flag of 
my country was floating, not disheartened, but 
decidedly perplexed as to what might be the 
best thing to do under the very unfavorable cir- 
cumstances. 

After seeing the old piles of masonry that 
have been standing here for centuries, I went 
to the water front and tried to get employment 
of any sort. I was willing to work for the two 
drachmas a day, as my purse was almost empty, 
but the first reply I received to an application 
was that foreigners were not allowed to work 
on the docks. Finally I decided to see the 
British consul, and it was from him that I re- 
ceived that which the American citizen in a 
similar position had refused to give me, a letter 
by means of which I might work my passage to 
Alexandria. The letter was all I could ask, 
and it proved effective. The British official 
had done the greatest favor I could hope for 



Journey Around the World 243 

under such conditions as confronted me at that 
time. 

On one of the streets of Athens I saw a sign 
which read, "American Rug Company." It 
was a welcome sight and the manager, D. D. 
Dare, proved to be a royal fellow. He invited 
me to eat with him, and said that I should 
share what he had as long as I was in Athens. 
He was a friend, indeed, and his name will live 
in my mind as one of those who extended a 
helping hand at a time when the outlook was 
exceedingly dark. 

My experience in Athens will give an idea of 
some of the hardships a young man traveling 
as I did has to endure. I was there five days, 
and in that time subsisted, three times a day, 
on boiled beans, mixed with oil, and with a 
piece of bread to accompany it. Such a meal 
costs four cents. It was, therefore, with a glad 
heart that I left the old city where others, hun- 
dreds of years before, had experienced hard- 
ships different from mine, but not much more 
unpleasant. 

The steward of the vessel was informed that 
I was to work for my transportation across, and 
he treated me very kindly. At 3 o'clock I 
walked up the gangway of the steamer Prince 
Abbas, which was to carry me to Alexandria. 
My work was helping in the kitchen, labor 
which I had become highly competent to per- 



244 ^^ Endeavorer's Working 

form. Having peeled vegetables and plucked 
the feathers from half a dozen chickens, I 
brought my trade into use and made a small 
sum cutting the hair of several of the men on 
board and shaving others. With the profits 
from this work I was able to replace the 
shoes which I wore, and which were sadly 
the worse for the rough times they had had, 
with a pair of cheap Greek shoes, second-hand, 
but valuable in the sight of a footsore tourist. 
Upon entering the harbor, as we neared the 
dock at Alexandria, a swarm of human beings, 
helping to make up the varied population of 
the ancient Bast, came into view. There had 
been a cosmopolitan crowd on shipboard, and 
the same condition prevailed at Alexandria. 
Sight-seeing was not my first desire when I 
reached that seemingly unfriendly place. 
There I was, without a coin of any nation, 
among a crowd of people wearing strange garb 
and talking in tongues that to me were un- 
known. It was Sunday when I stepped ashore 
with my little traveling-bag in my hand, and 
depending entirely upon my wits to pull me 
through the experience that was just opening 
up. Mr. J. Gammage, whom I met at a church 
service on that day, proved to be the superin- 
tendent of the sailors' home, and, when I had 
told him the exact condition I found myself in, 
he invited me to come with him and make my 



Journey Around the World 245 

home at the institution until I was able to find 
employment. This invitation was extended, 
too, before I had told Mr. Gammage of my 
plans and the trip around the world. His 
kindness to me was therefore all the more 
deeply appreciated. He was a true Christian 
man, and knew how to treat a fellow Christian 
when he met one. 

The following day I speedily learned that 
employment in the barber-shops of Alexandria 
was difhcult to find at that season of the year. 
I was told frequently that business in my trade 
was good in Cairo, and I knew such to be the 
fact, but I was 130 miles from that city, and 
without funds. I therefore decided to visit an- 
other American consul and ask him to lend 
me enough money to take me to Cairo. He 
paid little attention to my letters, treated me as 
though he had no faith in what I said, or my 
purpose of returning the money in the event I 
secured it, and refused to grant the favor I 
asked. I began to think that my passport and 
its words concerning lawful protection and aid, 
was worth less than the paper and ink that had 
been used in making it, so far as American 
consuls were concerned. This seemed to be 
the one class of officials that was unwilling to 
extend a helping hand. 

Having failed in my mission to the consul's 
office, I found a dreary Christmas eve ahead of 



246 An Endeavorer's Working 

me. In many parts of the earth, in my own 
country, in the home of that consul, there was 
the joy of Yuletide and the good cheer of the 
holiday season, but none of the happiness 
seemed to be forme. The loan of $1.25 from 
the official would have made it possible for me 
to get to Cairo, and would have been the most 
delightful Christmas gift he could have be- 
stowed upon me. He had even refused to look 
at my letter of introduction and treated my 
authorized papers as lightly as though I had 
forged them all. 

On Christmas day I helped Mr. Gammage to 
get the chapel of the Sailors' Home in readi- 
ness for a social that was to be given there an 
evening or two later, and a fine turkey dinner 
was the result of my labor. 



Journey Around the World 247 

CHAPTER XVIII 
As A Machinist in Alexandria 

TUESDAY, December 27th, while seaiching 
near the water-front for a chance to labor 
at even coolie wages, I ran across a big iron 
coal-conveying machine in course of construc- 
tion. It was an American machine, and was 
being built by the Brown Hoisting and Convey- 
ing Machine Company. Here was a chance to 
work at small wages, but I accepted it gladly 
and was started in at the equivalent of one dol- 
lar a day, 25 cents more than the foreign 
laborers were receiving. I saw that in order to 
save enough money to enable me to resume my 
journey I must keep "bachelor's hall," and 
accordingly I made preparations along this line. 
The engineer in charge, Mr. Thompson, said I 
could use his office for a sleeping- room, and the 
Italian engineer gave me lumber with which to 
make a shed for use as a kitchen. Mr. Gam- 
mage offered to lend me some bedding, and 
with it all I was getting to be a very happy 
man again. 

Employed in the construction of the great 
machine were Italians, Greeks, Maltese and one 
Englishman. Mr. Thompson and myself were 
the only Americans. My first work was the 



248 An Endeavorer's Working 

use of a cold-chisel, a hammer and a monkey- 
wrench, at a point forty feet above the water. 
I was told to let the Arabs do the heavy lifting, 
my task being to cut off some of the flat-head 
rivets that were in an iron beam. The work 
was new and my strokes were not always true, 
so the result was that in a few hours I had a 
pair of hands that were bruised and bleeding 
and sore. At 8 o'clock in the morning, after 
work was under way, there was half an hour 
for breakfast, according to the custom of that 
country. After a few hours I caught the knack 
of using the chisel and was able to strike as 
hard a blow, with as sure an aim, as any man 
on the job. As soon as I had finished lunch, I 
began to look around for camping utensils for 
use in the shed which was to be my kitchen. I 
secured two coal-oil cans from an English 
tramp steamer that was unloading coal, and, 
telescoping the two, cut two round holes and 
soon had a cook stove. 

My work on the hoisting machine soon 
changed from cutting rivets to fitting iron rods 
and beams into their places. The Arabs were 
a lazy and shirking lot, and the first word I 
learned in their language was "arue," which 
means "get out of my way." That word had 
to be used frequently, but it never gave offense 
to the worthless fellows. They were accustomed 
to waiting upon their superiors, and when I 



Journey Around the World 249 

climbed down the ladders at the end of the 
working hours, they carried my tools for me. 
At the close of the day I purchased a 
'* housekeeping" outfit, paying eight piastres, 
forty cents, for a frying-pan, and six piastres, 
thirty cents, for a dozen eggs, I bought a pint 
of olive oil, to use for grease in the frying- 
pan, and also potatoes and bread. The entire 
first day's wages, which had been advanced to 
me ahead of the regular paying time, was spent 
in the Arabian bazaar. I learned in this coun- 
try that the merchants always ask about three 
times as much for an article as they expect to 
receive. A person who is sharp and careful in 
his buying is looked up to by them. They 
despise one who is willing to pay what they 
first ask for their wares. Having begun my 
domestic duties in the little shed, I found an 
interested crowd of Arabs around me, watching 
every move from the time I kindled a fire for 
the first meal until the dishes were washed and 
put away. At the close of the first day I went 
to bed in the office of the construction com- 
pany, according to invitation from the super- 
intendent, using the plans of the hoisting 
machine for a pillow and the draughtsman's 
table for a bed. From the little shed where I 
cooked I could look across the harbor entrance 
into the grounds of the Khedive's palace, and 
knew that when Abbas II came to his summer 



250 An Endeavorer's Working 

home lie would be my nearest neighbor, for the 
construction work and my temporary home 
were but a short distance from the royal grounds. 

I was the only employee who rested on Sun- 
day, it being the custom in that country to labor 
seven days in the week on government work. 
So, in such surroundings, I became accustomed 
to my new life, and to the peculiarities of the 
people. An Arab is as much afraid of a piece 
of pork as he is of a snake. I accidentally 
dropped a piece of bacon rind upon the bare 
foot of an Arab and he jumped as though I had 
cut him with a knife. The lazy Arabs are 
great for prayers, and so frequent were their de- 
votions that I became convinced that much of 
the faithfulness to religious duty was for the 
purpose of shirking their labor. There is but 
one way to get along with these laborers, and 
that is to let them take their own time and do 
their work as their inclination prompts them. 

An Arabian's meal is principally of bread 
and garlic. He is exceedingly fond of green 
stuff, and whenever I threw away the top of a 
vegetable, it was quickly seized by an Arab and 
greedily devoured. The climate of Alexandria 
is much more disagreeable than that of the in- 
terior of Egypt. The rain and wind frequently 
make a very unpleasant combination. 

On pay-day I received two English gold sov- 
ereigns and two silver coins of twenty piastres 



Journey Around the World 25"! 

each for twelve days' work. This was the 
most money I had received at one time since I 
worked for the United States Commission at 
the Paris Exposition. 

On Sunday afternoon I had the privilege of 
seeing an Arabian funeral. The body of the 
dead person was carried upon the shoulders of 
four men, who were surrounded by a howling 
mob. Each one in the mob seemed to be sing- 
ing a song of his own, and all were jumping up 
and down and screaming at the top of their 
voices. The women pulled their garments and 
tore their hair in the wildest frenzy. This was 
their demonstration of grief, and their way of 
invoking peace and a safe voyage for the 
departed. 

While we were working on the big crane one 
day we noticed that the flags in Alexandria had 
been dropped to half-mast. It was the result 
of the news just received there of the death of 
Queen Victoria. On Saturday, February 2d, 
we did not have to work, a memorial service 
for the dead queen being held in the English 
Church in Alexandria. 



252 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XIX 
Cairo and Palestine; 

FiNAivLY the time came for me to give up my 
camp life in ttiat city of the Old World. 
I received my last pay from the Egyptian gov- 
ernment, received a letter of recommendation 
from the Italian engineer, bade good-bye to 
Arabs and Greeks and the others I had worked 
with and, after refusing further employment 
there at increased wages, left Alexandria and 
started for Cairo, accompanied by J. W. Col- 
lings, an engineer on the British steamer 
Murillo, of Wilson & Co. We bought third- 
class tickets for twenty-two piastres each, or 
$1.10. This trip on a railroad train was with- 
out special incident, and we reached Cairo, the 
mother city of the world, in time for breakfast. 
Then I saw the Pyramids, the Sphinx, and 
searched for the bulrushes where Moses was 
hidden. If the waters of the Nile were as 
muddy when the daughter of Pharaoh went 
down in them to bathe as they are now, she 
must have had a dirty swim, but, nevertheless, 
she found Moses and made possible one of the 
most beautiful stories of the Bible. 

After leaving the Pyramids and the Sphinx 
there were trips through the famous streets of 



Journey Around the World 253 

Cairo on the backs of rocking camels and visits 
to scores of interesting and historic places. A 
feature of the place that travelers may have 
failed to mention np to this time is the indus- 
trious mosquito. I had so many "bites" on 
my forehead that it was almost impossible for 
me to wear my straw hat. 

At 4 o'clock on Saturday, February i6th, I 
was a deck passenger on the steamer Rah- 
manieh, bound for Palestine. I paid $3 for 
the privilege of selecting a place on the deck 
where I might spread my blanket when night 
came, between Alexandria and Jaffa. The 
space that my blanket occupied, after I had 
once "staked" it out, belonged to me, and I 
had such a good and recognized title to it that 
no one disturbed me. I had returned to Alex- 
andria from Cairo in order that I might take 
passage on the steamer, and as we steamed 
out of the harbor the vessel passed the big 
piece of machinery where I had toiled so hard 
for six weeks. As the ship bore away from the 
shore the thought struck me that Moses was 
not the only man who endured hardships in 
order that he might get out of Egypt. 

Early Sunday morning the Mohammedans on 
board were prostrate as they did their religious 
devotions, which were followed by coffee made 
by themselves, dry bread soaked in hot water 
and eggs to accompany it. They all used their 



254 ^" Endeavorer's Working 

fingers freely while partaking of their meals ^ 
and all ate from one dish. . 

Our vessel lay at anchor at Port Said, wht^lT"*'* 
was reached Sunda}^ noon, until the evening 
train arrived from Cairo. Port Said is a wicked 
place, a commercial center, and the home of a 
cosmopolitan population. At 8 o'clock in the 
evening anchor was weighed and the vessel 
steamed away. A number of American tour- 
ists got on board at Port Said. There were a 
few points of distinction between these travel- 
ers and myself, chief among which were $8 a 
day and several feet of space. They have nar- 
row berths in the cabin below, for which they 
pay $8 a day in ' 'conducted" parties, while I 
have as much of the deck as I want to use, as 
much sunshine as I can absorb and as much of 
the glorious scenery of the night as I am able 
to gaze upon. They hire a conductor, while I 
do my own conducting and am free to go and 
come as I please. They complain at times be- 
cause they do not get their money's worth, 
while I have so little invested in the trip that I 
have no excuse for complaining. 

On the morning of Monday, February i8th, I 
was up at sunrise and caught a glimpse of the 
Holy Land, for we were skirting the coast of 
Palestine. The first sight of the land made 
sacred and dear to the heart of every student of 
the Bible fills one with an awe and a decree of 



Journey Around the World 255 

uplifting delight that cannot be described. At 
9 o'clock we were dropping anchor at Jaffa. I 
fell into conversation with some of the Ameri- 
cans who were in the party and had the pleas- 
ure of receiving the card of Mr. Robert J. Bur- 
dette, a resident of my sunny state of Califor- 
nia, a writer too well known to be referred to 
in that way, and, above all, a thorough gentle- 
man. He told me that he was acquainted with 
my pastor in California and introduced me to 
his wife and two sons. Henry Burk, a mem- 
ber of the Pennsylvania Senate, also exchanged 
cards with me, and I almost forgot that I was a 
deck passenger and that my new-found friends 
were paying fancy prices for all they were 
receiving. With Senator Burk I stepped upon 
the shore of Palestine. 

Arrived in Jaffa, I entered an Arabian eating 
house, and was served with a piece of stewed 
mutton or goat, potatoes with gravy, bread 
and a cup of water. There are a number of 
orange and lemon groves near Jaffa, and I vis- 
ited these before boarding a train for Jerusalem. 
Early in the afternoon I purchased a second- 
class ticket and started for the Holy City. 
During the journey I noticed Arabs plowing in 
one field with several different kinds of ani- 
mals. One had a crotched stick with a camel 
on one end of it, another had a donkey and cow 
yoked together. Two small cattle were plow- 
in the same way. 



256 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XX 

Jerusalem and the Holy Land 

AT 5 o'clock we arrived at the station in 
Jerusalem. Dodging the hotel runners, I 
found a family boarding-house outside the city- 
wall. Everything was very comfortable and 
pleasant and not in the least like the condi- 
tions that are popularly associated with life in 
that portion of the world, which is a part of 
the Christianity in which we have an abiding 
faith. 

Having informed Mr. Williams, the proprie- 
tor of the house, that I wanted to do some kind 
of work by means of which I could pay ex- 
penses during my stay in Jerusalem, he sug- 
gested that I meet the trains in the interest of 
his establishment. I accepted immediately the 
proffered position of hotel "rustler," having 
had profitable experience along that line in an- 
other country. A hotel runner in Jerusalem! 
Would you not expect as soon to find golf links 
in Canaan? 

The following day I went to the office of the 
American consul, and, contrary to some of the 
experiences I had had in similar oflSces, was 
treated most courteously by Dr. S. Merrill, who 
represented the United States in that capacity. 



Journey Around the World 257 

He promised to help me in every way possible 
during my stay in that part of Palestine. 

Then came little journeys to the points of 
interest whose names are familiar to every per- 
son who knows the least of sacred history. 
Those trips were sources of untold joy and in- 
spiration. Every foot of ground seemed to 
have a story written in it, a story that forms a 
part of the wonderful work that has been the 
salvation of mankind. 

During my wanderings I came to a well a 
few feet from the French chapel and turned 
the corner of the stone wall I had followed up 
the side of the Mount of Olives just in time to 
see a real fight between several Arabian women. 
Nine of them were involved in the trouble, 
which was very emphatic. The argument 
started while they were getting water from the 
well, and it ended in hair pulling and a shower 
of stones. The clay pots in which they in- 
tended to get the water were forgotten. One 
woman was knocked down and so badly injured 
that she was unable to arise. While she was 
there prostrate another came near and struck 
her a vicious blow with a rock, while the other 
women took their water-pots and went their 
way, permitting the injured one to lie there 
helpless. 

The slopes of Mount Olive are cultivated, but 

17 



258 An Endeavorer's Working 

the vegetation is not luxuriant, the principal 
growths being olive and fig trees. 

As to my success as a hotel solicitor in Jeru- 
salem, I succeeded on that day in getting two 
young men from America to try my house, and 
they were thoroughly pleased. My opportuni- 
ties for learning the way tourists are treated 
there were excellent, for, having become well 
acquainted with the guides, they took me into 
their confidences and frequently winked at me 
when telling tourists the difficulties that beset 
a stranger in Jerusalem or the value of an escort 
to the various places of interest. I was able to 
hire a donkey for two francs. A regular tour- 
ist, the victim of all who have something to 
sell, has to pay ten francs. 

One day while out for a tramp, just before 
reaching the tomb of Rachel, I stepped aside in 
the road in order that a carriage might pass. I 
was greeted by Mr. Burdette, who asked me to 
get into his carriage. I did so, and had an 
enjoyable little visit with the genial American 
and his sons. After I left Mr, Burdette, who 
was on his way to Hebron, I pushed on to 
Bethlehem and soon reached that place, with its 
streets so narrow that I was frequently obliged 
to step into doorways, in order to let camels 
with their heavy loads pass. 

At the Church of St. Mary I entered a door 
so low that I was compelled to bow my head 



Journey Around the World 259 

before I could enter. The Greek Temple was 
crowded witli pilgrims who had come many 
miles from northern countries in order that 
they might worship at this shrine. They wore 
the heavy wool clothes of their own country 
and looked decidedly uncomfortable in that 
warm climate. Each pilgrim brought a small 
candle and a Greek priest showed them down 
into the grotto, dark and forbidding, where the 
silver star marks the supposed birthplace of our 
Ivord. The priest carried a brass pan, and 
after each pilgrim had kissed the silver star, 
the pan was rattled noisily and the pilgrims 
were thus given to understand that they were 
expected to drop coins into the pan. This they 
were generally able to do, after fumbling for a 
long time in their heavy clothing. Finally 
several priests, one of whom asked me to go up 
higher, went into the grotto with lighted can- 
dles and erected an altar in the center of the 
grotto in front of the silver star, and there fol- 
lowed a series of devotions which I could not 
understand, but which are an indispensable 
part of the religion of these inhabitants of the 
Holy Land. 

With my pack on my back — the pack con- 
sisting of a blanket, bread, cheese, boiled eggs 
and oranges — I started for Hebron, reaching 
Rachel's tomb just as the sun peeped over the 
hills. I had little to fear on account of the 



260 An Endeavorer's Working 

robbing Bedouins, for with my Scotcli cap and 
trousers tied close witb strings I resembled 
quite strongly a typical pilgrim who bad come 
many miles in order to pay homage to their 
religious beliefs. When I reached Hebron I 
had walked twenty-two miles and my course 
had been through a section of country where 
greedy natives insist upon a division of the 
traveler's resources. I paid no attention to 
their demands, and, on account of their igno- 
rance of the fact that I was able to speak En- 
glish, escaped without having to comply with 
requests that were decidedly in the form of 
demands. 



Journey Around the World 261 

CHAPTER XXI 

In the Country of the Bedouins 

'HEN I reached Hebron I secured a room 
at the home of a Jew and proceeded to 
become acquainted with this modern town. I 
saw the court and mosque that stand directly 
over the spot where Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, 
with their wives, Sarah, Rebecca and lycah, 
are said to have been buried. By the pool of 
Hebron, and in other spots made sacred by the 
Holy Word, I stood and received inspiration 
from the very surroundings. Later on I visited 
the pool of Solom.on, and seeing no other tour- 
ists in the vicinity, went into the water and 
enjoyed a refreshing bath. The next trip was 
to the river Jordan and the Dead Sea, passing 
through Bethany and keeping on the trail down 
the side of the Mount of Olives until we (a 
German young man had accompanied me) 
reached the Apostles' fountain. We were now 
in the country of the Bedouins, the place where 
I had been advised not to go alone, and where 
the natives try to do the "bluff" act in order to 
extract money from the tourists. The common 
method of collecting toll is for the Bedouins to 
"hold up" a carriage until the required fee has 
been paid. The natives carry long, fierce look- 



262 An Endeavorer's Working 

ing guns and are quite formidable enough in 
appearance to persuade even 'persons who are 
not timid to give "backsheesli" rather than 
undergo the risks which the threatening weap- 
ons seem to imply. 

As we were winding our way down a steep 
canyon toward the Dead Sea we met two des- 
perate looking Bedouins. I addressed them in 
the Arabian tongue, bidding them good-morn- 
ing, and we were not molested until after we 
had gone past them about thirty feet. Then, 
pointing their revolvers at us, they called upon 
us to retrace our steps and give them money. 
We paid no attention to them, and, being soon 
out of shooting distance, were not afraid. Had 
they laid their plans earlier they probably 
would have robbed us, and there is no way of 
knowing to what unpleasant extremes they 
would have gone in order to extort the coin for 
which they are all desperately eager. 

I told my companion that we would bathe in 
the Dead Sea, but he hesitated, saying he could 
not swim. I insisted, however, that there was 
no danger, and when I had finally persuaded 
him to try it, he became convinced that I was 
right, for it was impossible to sink in water so 
heavily laden with salt. When he found that 
he could not go to the bottom, I had a great 
deal more difficulty in getting him to leave the 
water than I had to induce him to enter it. 



Journey Around the World 263 

On the banks of the Jordan one day I stood 
near an American woman who was making a 
tour of the Holy lyand, and heard her ask her 
dragoman where the "Promised I,and" was. 
The dragoman did not know. He was born 
and reared in the "Promised Land." The 
tourist who asked the question had been travel- 
ing over it for many days and did not know it. 
This is a good sample of how some persons, 
having eyes and seeing not, try to see the 
world. Travelers of this kind, ignorant of 
what they are beholding, and ajppreciating not 
in the least the history interwoven with the 
sights that meet their gaze, lose what Christian- 
ity they have when they go to the Holy Land. 



264 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXII 

Jerusalem to Damascus on Foot 

'HEN we reached Jericlio we had walked 
thirty-five miles and had accomplished 
the same task, in point of distance, that those 
who had ridden in carriages had. We walked 
back to Jerusalem next day, and I made prepa- 
rations for a trip to Damascus. At the Howard 
Hotel I met Mr. Herbert C. Clark and his party 
of tourists, composed of four ladies and two 
gentlemen, each of whom was provided with a 
small Arabian pony. I had made arrangements 
to accompany them, walking along dog-fashion 
and taking my meals with the tourists, who 
were able to pay for luxuries that I was unable 
to indulge myself in. The riders set a good 
pace for me, but I was fully prepared for the 
trip. I kept up all right for twelve miles, and 
when we stopped for a lunch and a rest, I do 
not believe that, walking though I was, I was 
the most weary person in the crowd. 

Mr. Clark showed me every possible cour- 
tesy. He provided me with a silver drinking- 
cup and a napkin and cared for my wants as 
carefully as though I had been one of the tour- 
ists paying him at the rate of ^8 a day for what 
they received. My rate was $1 a day, and I 



Journey Around the World 265 

found that it was a wise expenditure. In the 
afternoon I had no difficulty at all in keeping 
pace with the tourists on horseback, for we 
were following a rocky trail and progress was 
exceedingly slow. 

The tents were pitched for the night at 
Sinjil, twenty-three miles from Jerusalem. 
There were six tents, a kitchen tent, dining 
tent and four sleeping tents. The party re- 
quired twenty-five animals to carry its members 
and all the baggage. Eleven Arabs did the 
rough work and there was a good-natured cook 
who was obliging to me, thus making it possi- 
ble for me to sustain my reputation of making 
a friend of the man who provided for the wants 
of the inner man. The Arabian waiter gave 
me a large bag of hay for my bed, which I 
placed on one side of the dining-room table, he 
sleeping on the other side. The tourists had 
retired for the night, and we were soon all 
sleeping and comfortable. 



266 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXIII 
IvOST IN THE H01.Y Land 

AFTER we had resumed the journey, the 
Arab who was carrying the lunch asked 
me to ride on his pony, but I refused, for I was 
determined to make a tour of the Holy Land on 
foot. After passing through Samaria, I de- 
cided to walk on ahead of the party. I lost my 
way, however, and walked about twelve miles 
out of the way. I was practically lost in the 
oldest country of the world's history, without 
friends, with my coat in the camping outfit and 
at a loss to know which way to go. I knew, 
however, that the party would camp at Nazar- 
eth, and so I turned m)-" steps in that direction 
after getting very unsatisfactory instructions 
from the Arabs in a small village throus^h which 
I passed while retracing my steps. On the wa}^ 
back I met a caravan and was surprised to see 
four Arabs dismount and come rushinof toward 
me, brandishing sticks as though they intended 
immediate attack. One of them snatched from 
my hand a water-pot that I had purchased in 
the little village, and all of them demanded 
money. I drew my club, intending to strike 
one of the four, and said in my harshest tone, 
"Arru," meaning "Get out of the way." My 



Journey Around the World 267 

actions were sufficient to frighten the Arabs, 
for they all ran. This was not surprising, for 
it is true that when the least resistance is made, 
the Arab is a great coward. 

Darkness came on, and it was intense dark- 
ness. Again I lost my way and was feeling 
utterly miseiable when I came to a small 
stream, which I was obliged to wade through. 
I had walked thirty-five miles that day, and 
was feeling very tired. The sensation of being 
lost is bad in any part of the world, but there 
it seemed to be particularly unhappy. I met 
other Arabs and was accosted in terms that 
were never friendly, but gave no evidence of 
fear, and was not injured by them. 

So weary that I could scarce drag one foot 
after the other, chilled because of the lack of a 
coat, and without hope of finding the tourists 
for many hours, I pushed ahead slowly until I 
came to an olive grove. The barking of a dog 
told me that I was near a village. This proved 
to be true, and when I had reached the village 
I asked the Arabs where I could find a place to 
sleep. They pointed to a Greek priest, of whom 
I made a request for lodging. He did not say 
a word, but took my hand and led me to his 
home. It was a stone house with one large 
room. After a few moments a woman came 
and opened the door, which she was not able to 
do until she had driven a lot of goats away 



268 An Endeavorer's Working 

from the entrance to the house. Two goats 
occupied a space inside the house, and the beds 
for the members of the family were spread upon 
the floor. In the family were a woman and 
four children, one of them a girl of eighteen 
years, who brought a pan of water in which I 
might wash my feet, according to a custom 
that has prevailed there since the time of Abra- 
ham. A quilt .spread upon the floor was my 
bed, and after I had washed my feet I was 
asked to sit upon the bed. I gave an affirma- 
tive answer to a question concerning whether 
or not I was hungry, and after a meal had been 
prepared it was brought to me on a round mat 
and I placed it before me on the floor. The 
meal consisted of a plate of beans, two pieces 
of Arabian bread, dried figs and a little brown 
jar of water. I have never eaten a meal that I 
appreciated more. As I ate, the members of 
the family sat around me in a circle on the 
floor. The priest, after I had had considerable 
difficulty in making him understand, informed 
me that he knew where the members of my 
party were camping, and promised to accom- 
pany me to the camp on the following morn- 
ing. Troubles were beginning to be lifted from 
my burdened shoulders. Although I was very 
weary, deep sleep was impossible, for the fleas 
were numerous and the goats were nibbling at 
my hair. 



Journey Around the World 269 

Next morning we reached tlie campers after 
an hour's walk. To the old man who had been 
so kind to me I gave a five-franc piece, which 
probably was more money than he had ever 
had at one time in his life. The camp was not 
awake when we arrived. After every one had 
arisen, tourists and Arabs alike seemed to be 
greatly pleased to know that I was safe and 
had returned to camp. 



270 ' An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXIV 
A Barber's Work in Nazareth 

IN Nazareth we were shown the interesting 
sights by Mr. Clark, and later I unrolled 
my barbering outfit, improvised a chair and 
worked at my trade there in the city once de- 
spised. 

A part of a day was spent on the Sea of Gal- 
ilee, and while the tourists were taking kodak 
pictures, I was entertaining the native fisher- 
men by showing them how to throw a lasso. 
They were amazed when they saw me throw 
the rope around an Arab who was running at 
full speed, and the natives looked upon me as 
a wonder. A preacher in the party, who had 
not seen me throw the Arab, doubted my abil- 
ity to use the rope with the skill they said I 
possessed. I told him to run as rapidly as he 
could, and I threw the rope around him. It 
would have been an easy matter to throw him, 
but I had too much respect for his years and 
the long-tailed coat he wore. 

After visiting many places of biblical inter- 
est, we proceeded up the slope of Mount Her- 
mon, finding snow in several places, and hav- 
ing a most excellent view of the surrounding 
country. Sunday was spent resting in camp. 



Journey Around the World 271 

On the following day, about six miles from 
Damascus, we stopped for lunch, probably in 
about the place where Paul was overcome by 
the great light. On this journey, counting 
Damascus as the terminus, I had walked two 
hundred miles, at an average of twenty miles a 
day, and when it was over I felt as well as I 
had ever felt before. My contract with Mr. 
Clark was now at an end, but I was invited to 
remain with the party of tourists during the 
sightseeing in Damascus, a city that is regarded 
by the Arabs as an earthly reflection of Para- 
dise. 

When the time came for me to leave Damas- 
cus, I was ill, and did not undertake a walking 
journey, but went on a train to within eighteen 
miles of Baalbeck, where I visited the Acropo- 
lis, the Temple of the Sun. From here I started 
out on foot to walk to the Lebanon Mountains. 
The surroundings here were charming, for I 
was in a Christian settlement, and everything 
had a clean appearance, quite in contrast to 
some of the places I had been seeing for many 
days. It was quite positively proved to me 
that Mohammedanism is not conducive to 
cleanliness. I was disappointed in the moun- 
tains. The cedars of Lebanon have disap- 
peared and the elevations are bleak and barren. 
On the western slope I stopped at the home of 
a Turk and asked for lodging. It was granted. 



272 An Endeavorer's Working 

The Turk started a charcoal fire in a little fire- 
box, and fried some eggs in olive oil. I had 
bread, dates and cheese in my pack-bag, and 
with a cup of coffee managed to complete a 
very respectable meal. My bed was a quilt 
spread upon the counter of the little store kept 
by the Turk, my host lying on the floor. After 
breakfast the next morning I made an early 
start and was soon on my way, stopping at the 
Mount Zion Hotel for dinner. 

In Beirut, calling at the office of the Amer- 
ican consul, I had my Turkish passport re- 
newed, and then proceeded on down the coast. 
At the village of Rased Damur, I met a Turk 
who had spent a few months in New York City, 
and he invited me to go to his home. Taking 
my shoes off at the door, as the others had 
done, I was soon given the best comforts of 
home that such a place could afford. For the 
evening meal there was a large dish of split 
beans and a dish of stewed vegetables. We 
used thin, tough bread for spoons, tearing off 
pieces of the bread and moulding them into 
shapes as near like spoons as possible. After 
the meal we all retired in the one large room, 
each having a quilt for a mattress and a good 
pillow and a blanket for a cover. For my en- 
tertainment, including the breakfast next morn- 
ing, my good host refused to accept pay. 

My journey ings then took me to Sidon, 



Journey Around the World 273 

where I met Dr. G. A. Ford, in charge of the 
American mission. A short time later I was 
entertained in an Arabian home, where the host 
took a. particular fancy to my shoes and to the 
buckles on my suspenders. The meal here was 
a garlic stew, with thin pieces of bread thrown 
down beside the bowl. Not even the first bite 
of the stew tasted good, and that was a meal 
that was little enjoyed. The next day I gave 
my host a Turkish coin worth about two cents, 
and started on. 

At Tyre I went to the British Syrian mission 
and procured from the superintendent. Miss 
Lord, some medicine that might cure me of the 
illness the water and food I had been getting 
for several days had caused. Here in Tyre I 
met another Turk who had been in America, 
and in his home I found good entertainment. 
There was company in his house, and when we 
all surrounded the table, which was spread 
upon the floor, there were ten of us. 

After a short time spent in Akka I went to 
Haifa, and when I arrived there at Mount 
Carmel, I had walked five hundred miles in 
Palestine and Syria. At Haifa I boarded the 
steamer Dakahleih and after a rough, short voy- 
age, reached Jaffa, from which place I returned 
to Jerusalem, getting there in time to see the 
great influx of travelers at Easter tide, the 
great time of the year for tourists and pilgrims 

18 



274 An Endeavorer's Working 

in that section of the world. I attended Easter 
services at the English Church, probably with- 
in a stone's throw from the place where the 
Lord and his disciples had their last supper. 



Journey Around the World 275 

CHAPTER XXV 
The "Holy Fire" Miracle 

SATURDAY, April i3tli, was the Greek Easter, 
and on this occasion I was admitted, with 
thirteen other Americans, to the galleries of the 
Church of the Sepulcher, in order that we 
might witness the so-called miracle of Holy 
Fire. Several priests walked in procession 
around the little chapel sepulcher, three times, 
after which they entered the supposed tomb of 
Christ. Each person in the great crowd which 
blocked the passageways held his hands above 
his head, and in the hands candles were firmly 
clasped. Each one was trying to get near the 
window or the holes in the side of the chapel 
of the sepulcher. There are two of these holes, 
one on the north side and the other on the 
south. There were several fights in the crowd, 
but these combats only added to the religious 
zeal of the participants. At 1:30 o'clock p. m. 
the "holy fire" appeared through the holes. 
Just then the bells began to ring and the crowd 
pushed toward the little chapel. The soldiers 
were pushed from their positions by the fren- 
zied people eager to get the holy fire. The 
first one to secure a light to a bunch of candles 
was immediately surrounded by a crowd of 



276 An Endeavorer's Working 

jostling, excited individuals, each holding can- 
dles whicli he was trying to light. The first 
one to secure a light had it extinguished three 
times, but on the fourth attempt other candles 
were lighted from it. All over the place the 
little lights began to spread and in a few min- 
utes every caudle was burning and the church 
was illuminated brightly. The distribution of 
the light was disgraceful, but after it had been 
accomplished the sight was very attractive. It 
is a fact that if it had not been for the Moham- 
medan soldiers, unbelievers, the so-called Chris- 
tians would have killed each other in their 
frantic efforts to get light from the first candle 
that came in contact with the holy fire. 

On the following Monday there were two 
special trains to carry the pilgrims to Jaffa, all 
the celebration being over, and I secured stand- 
ing room in the second train which left Jerusa- 
lem. Many of the pilgrims carried their light- 
ed candles in tin boxes, in order that they 
might carry the holy flames to their homes, 
some of them making this effort on journeys as 
long as from Jerusalem to Siberia. 

I endured this mode of travel for three hours, 
at the end of which time the train reached 
Jaffa. This railroad, at the time I rode over it, 
had a remarkable record. Up to that day its 
trains had never killed a single head of live 
stock. At 4 o'clock p. m. I went on board the 



Journey Around the World 277 

steamship Dakahlieh, on the Khedival mail 
line, bound for Port Said. We reached that 
place the next morning, and a few delightful 
hours were spent in watching the traffic that 
pours steadily through the Suez Canal. 



278 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXVI 

A Working Passage to Bombay 

Y desire was to work my passage to Bom- 
bay, but not a ship beaded for tbat port 
entered tbe harbor until April i8tb. Finally I 
noticed a mail freight steamer entering the port 
with the name "Endeavor" on the bow, an 
English flag at the stern and a red cross on the 
smoke stack. The emblems on the vessel were 
charming, and, better still, she was going to 
Bombay, The captain told me I might assist 
the steward at his work, but that the time was 
short for preparations, as the "Endeavor" 
would sail in two hours. It did not take me 
long to hurry ashore and prepare my limited 
baggage for the journey. 

The captain was delightfully agreeable. De- 
scribing his ship, he said that the red cross was 
the emblem which stood for the name of the 
line. This company has four steamers named 
after four ships which belonged to Captain 
Cook, the famous navigator of England, the 
Resolution, Discovery, Enterprise and En- 
deavor. The Endeavor of later days left 
Batoum April nth, to make the trip from the 
port on the Black Sea with 1,761 tons of case 
oil for Bombay. By going through the Suez 



Journey Around the World 279 

Caual the journey was made 6,000 miles 
shorter, but the canal fees were $3,900 with 
an added $40 for the use of the electric light. 
All passengers were charged $2 for passing 
through the canal. I saved this fee by being a 
member of the steamer's crew. 

Beginning April 30th, for forty-one hours, 
the ship was the victim of a terrific cyclone and 
heavy sea, and was driven twenty-eight hours 
off its course. This was my first experience in 
such a storm at sea, and I was ill for the third 
time since leaving New York. 

When we reached Bombay on May 4th, Sat- 
urday night, the water was calm. I soon dis- 
covered that India was not merely a warm 
country. It was scorching hot, and I soon 
adopted a white linen suit and a cork hat, or 
helmet. There is little pleasure in a trip to 
India. No one can look upon idolatry with a 
smile. The general picture is a sad one, and 
the half truly has not been told. 

I secured employment very soon after arriv- 
ing in Bombay, the place being the Pall Mall 
Hair Dressing and Shaving Saloon, the finest 
barber-shop in Asia. In the shop I was the 
only representative of the New World. All the 
others spoke strange tongues, but had acquired 
much of modern methods in their trade, more, 
in fact, than most of the barbers of Europe. 
All of them were able, when necessary, to 



29o An Endeavorer's Working 

speak Knglisli fairly well. The shop was what 
was called a first-class place, only "gentlemen" 
who do not labor, having their work done 
there. An English officer who finds an ordi- 
nary "Tommy Atkins" having his tonsorial 
work done where he goes is highly insulted. 
The theory of caste is carried to a deplorable 
extreme in India. 

I received a visitor's pass from the United 
States consul, Mr. Fee, to the Tower of Silence, 
on Malabar hill. As the pass would admit as 
many as I cared to take, I extended a general 
invitation to the young men at the Y. M. C. A. 
home, and six of them accepted it. We took a 
"gerry," or hack, as Englishmen, Americans 
and Europeans seldom walk in India. In the 
Tower of Silence the Parsis dispose of their 
dead. They do not bury them or burn them, 
but leave the bodies to be eaten by vultures. 
There are five of these towers. The oldest 
one, visited first, is round and built of gray 
stone, is about twenty-five feet high, and has 
been in existence for 250 years. Many vul- 
tures, their greedy eyes fastened upon the place 
where the bodies were customarily left, were 
sitting upon the edge of the gray wall, and it 
was evident that they had not suffered for want 
of food. We wete not permitted to go nearer 
than thirty feet from the tower. I give in 




WHERK THB AUTHOR WORKliD IX BOMBAY. E;MPI,OYE;e;S OF 

SIX NATION alitie;s. 



Journey Around the World 281 

brief tlie ceremonial attending death and 
burial. 

When tlie case is hopeless the body of the 
dying person is washed and dressed in clean 
clothes. The priests then repeat strange texts 
and offer prayers. When life becomes extinct, 
the body is wrapped in clean garments and laid 
upon a stone slab in the front room. The 
female members and relations of the family sit 
together in the room, the men sitting outside 
on benches on the veranda. When the time 
for the removal of the" body approaches, it is 
placed upon an iron bier. This being done, 
two priests stand facing the body and recite, in 
an ancient language, a sort of funeral sermon. 
During the last prayer a white dog, kept usu- 
ally in the fire temple, is brought near the 
corpse and induced, if possible, to look at it. 
This is supposed to drive away the impure 
demon that strives to enter the dead body. 
The dog is commonly brought in twice and the 
whole ceremony may occupy forty minutes. 
Then the body is borne off by four men, a fifth 
man preceding to clear the way, so that not 
even the shadow of an unbeliever may fall upon 
the corpse. At the tower, after considerable 
more ceremony, the body is left in the open, 
and the vultures, waiting around, swoop down 
and very soon the flesh is all devoured. 

After seeing this grewsome spectacle I 



282 An Endeavorer's Working 

witnessed the process of burning the bodies 
of dead Hindoos, the remains being dumped 
upon a huge pile of inflammable material. 
Several bodies were burning at the time within 
the inclosure and the result was far from agree- 
able. The death rate in Bombay at this time, 
on account of the plague, was about sixty a 
day. One feature of this ceremony is the tak- 
ing of the sins of the dead man upon the 
shoulders of the nearest relative. When the 
deceased has no relatives, it is the duty of 
the village barber to take the sins of the dead 
stranger upon himself. 



Journey Around the World 283 

CHAPTER XXVII 
A Journey Across India 

AT the end of a month I had earned enough 
money in Bombay, at the rate of about 
^40 a month, to carry me through India, and I 
therefore set out for Calcutta, a distance of 
1,400 miles. On Monday, June loth, I packed 
my baggage for the journey across India. My 
experience in the month just gone had been an 
almost continued torture with prickly heat, 
constant perspiration and sweltering winds. 
Regular tourists know little of the real discom- 
forts of hot- weather life in India, for most of 
them endeavor to reach that country during the 
winter months. 

The hut of the poor man in India is made of 
bamboo, thatched with straw or palm leaves. 
There is but one room and it generally is as 
miserably furnished as one could imagine. 
Their food is boiled rice and limited veo-eta- 
bles, while knives, forks and spoons are un- 
known. The children have no garments what- 
ever, while the native men are dressed when 
they have girded their loins with a strip of 
cloth. The women wind a sort of sheet about 
them and this can be used as a covering for the 
shoulders and head. These people earn a mere 



284 An Endeavorer's Working 

pittance for their daily bread, and such is the 
unhappy condition of millions in this country. 

From Hurda I endured a short ride to Arga. 
A doctor passed through the train and felt the 
pulses of the passengers, the natives, on ac- 
count of the plague which exists so much of 
the time in the large cities of that country, 
being lined up on the platform before they are 
permitted to land. 

Arga is noted as the city of the "Taj 
Mahal," the "Dream in Marble," a marvelous 
structure whose beauty and richness are not 
equaled by any other building in the world. 
Crossing the river Ganges on my way to Luck- 
now, a city that lives in military history, my 
next stop was at Benares, the Rome of the 
Hindoo religion. Here there are more than 
five thousand temples and shrines. 

After a boat ride on the Ganges I traveled on 
toward Calcutta, which was reached on June 
19th. Here I went to the general post-office, 
as I had been doing faithfully in every city of 
every country where there was a post-office, 
and had the cancellation placed in my book, 
reproductions of which appear in these pages. 

When I went to inquire for board, I was told 
that the best kind would cost me fifty rupees a 
month, and that I would have to have my own 
servant, at a cost of six or eight rupees a month. 
The idea of being waited upon was distasteful. 



Journey Around the World 285 

I could not bear to think of having a serf stand 
around watching me take each bite and noting 
every move I made. The cheap servant sys- 
tem in India has spoiled the Europeans, who 
have become positively lazy. Many of them 
do not think of unlacing their own shoes, and 
it is not an uncommon thing for a clerk on 
moderate salary to call "boy" wherever he 
may be and command the servant to bring a 
book or article that may be only a few feet 
from the indolent person's chair. 

I preferred to take boarding accommodations 
in the cheapest class, with the sailors, paying 
therefor one rupee and four annas per day. 



286 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXVIII 
The G1.0RIES OF Mount Everest 

WHEN I inquired whether or not it would 
be possible for me to get a good view of 
Mount Everest, I was told that it was out of 
the question to see the glory of the snows 
in the Himalayas during the rainy season. 
This information, however, did not shake my 
determination to see the king of that moun- 
tainous range, and the hill dwellers who in- 
habit that section of the country. My nearest 
point was to be Darjeeling, 370 miles north. 
I left Calcutta for that place, buying a round 
trip railroad ticket and traveling third-class. 

At Bogoole I bought a native supper, and, 
through ignorance, almost caused a Hindoo 
provision seller to lose all the wares he had on 
his tray. I began making selections and, to 
my amazement, he threw away everything I 
touched, for the reason that I did not belong to 
his caste. I had learned that it was necessary 
for me to carry my own drinking cup, for a 
native will not permit one to drink from the 
cocoanut shell which he carries for his own 
use. In no other country are the lines so 
closely drawn. 

On this trip I actually found a cool night in 



Journey Around the World 287 

India and, stretching out in the railroad car, 
enjoyed the change from the insufferable heat 
immensely. Passing through jungles and for- 
ests on a little toy railway to which I had 
transferred, penetrating the home of tigers, 
elephants and wild hogs, I reached Darjeeling, 
seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. 
It was raining, and I received no encourage- 
ment when I began to ask how I was to see 
Mount Everest. I was finally told that I would 
get the best view from the summit of the Sing- 
alila range, forty miles from Darjeeling. That 
wasn't welcome news, but I shouldered my 
pack and started out to cover the distance on 
foot. I attracted the attention of every native 
I met, for it was something marvelous to them 
to see a white man carrying something on his 
back. Reaching a small mountain village, I 
found entertainment at the home of Mr. and 
Mrs. Wright, missionaries, and the only white 
persons in the village. 

The pack had been growing very heavy and 
I finally engaged the . service of a coolie to 
carry it. His stipulated price was the equiva- 
lent of sixteen cents a day. He was to board 
himself. After a delightful service at the mis- 
sion home, which was hugely enjoyed by a large 
number of hill natives who had come to the vil- 
lage to attend a bazaar, the coolie and myself 
started out, first through a bamboo forest and 



288 An Endeavorer's Working 

then making a climb of about four thousand 
feet to Tonghi. Here we spent the night and 
the following day reached a valley at the foot 
of a mountain from which we expected to ob- 
tain a view of Mount Everest. The last two 
thousand feet of the climb were indeed a hard- 
ship, for the atmosphere was rare and my 
breath came with difficulty. The wet weather, 
the sudden change from the heat of Calcutta, 
and the lofty elevation were all against me, and 
when we reached the next bungalow my head 
was aching terribly. 

The next morning my hopes were realized. 
The coolie was rapping on my door and win- 
dow very excitedly. The morning was bright 
and off in the distance I saw the snow-capped 
Mount Everest, gigantic and proud. After I 
had enjoyed the inspiring picture for some time 
the veil of clouds and mist came up again and 
the great mountain was again hidden from 
view. My purpose was accomplished, and in 
the face of the fact that no one seemed to 
think, when I started, that I would be able to 
accomplish that which I set out to do. 

I returned to the bungalow after this most 
gratifying experience and cooked some potatoes 
and eggs over my fireplace. With what I had 
cooked, and bread, raspberry jam and tea, I 
was exceedingly comfortable there by a glow- 
ing fire. There was not a man within forty 



Journey Around the World 289 

miles of me who could speak Euglisli, but I 
had no sense of fear on that account, and felt 
rather at home with my coolie and the native 
in charge of the bungalow, even though they 
spoke in a tongue different from mine. 

There were rain and mud and a slippery 
time through the jungles on the return trip. 
We passed many native huts, but I did not 
enter, for it would have broken the caste of the 
dwellers therein for me to have passed through 
their doors. While on the return trip I pur- 
chased a chicken for eight annas, sixteen cents, 
and told my coolie to kill it. He absolutely re- 
fused, his religion forbidding him to take life. 
When I again reached the home of Mr. and 
Mrs. Wright, it had been five days since I had 
heard a word of English spoken, and the sylla- 
bles were music to the ears. I reached Dar- 
jeeling on June 3d, having walked more than 
eighty miles. 

19 



290 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXIX 

Selling Typewriters Above the Clouds 

N this mountain city it was my desire to re- 
main about a week, for it is a great health 
and pleasure resort, and then there is the glory 
of the snows, which a great part of India is a 
stranger to. I secured employment, therefore, 
with G. S. Bomivetsch and my work was to 
sell the Remington typewriter away up there 
in the Himalaya mountains. This employ- 
ment gave me a chance to see something of the 
military and commercial life of the country. 
Upon approaching a business man it was neces- 
sary to send my card to him by a native serv- 
ant, who presented a silver plate at the door for 
that purpose. A coolie carried the sample type- 
writer, for in Darjeeling it would have been dis- 
graceful for a white man to do such a thing. I 
found many men on my rounds who were igno- 
rant of the value of typewriters, but managed 
to make my expenses while thus engaged in 
selling a great modern invention in a city above 
the clouds. The week spent there was a con- 
stant delight to the eye, for the view of the 
great mountain range and the stupendous wall 
which no human foot has been able to climb, 
combined to make an impression upon my mind 



Journey Around the World 291 

that can never be effaced, and which is one of 
the most pleasant memories of the trip. The 
principal industry here is the cultivation of tea. 
Maize, or Indian corn, is the staple product of 
the hills, while here and there, in the lower 
portions of the high country, rice is grown con- 
siderably. The most primitive implements are 
used in tilling the soil for these products. Mil- 
let, wheat, mustard, sugar cane and vegetables 
are grown to some extent. 

Upon my return to Calcutta I accepted an- 
other position with the Remington Company, 
working for Mr. Stockwell, the agent, at a sal- 
ary of fifty rupees a week. On Sunday, July 
2ist, while at church services at Union Chapel, 
I was feeling ill, and was told by a Mrs. Brock- 
way that I seemed to have the fever. This 
was indeed unwelcome news, but I felt that she 
was right. The dreaded malady had fastened 
itself upon me and I was taken to the Brock- 
way home, the parsonage, and was soon a 
wretched victim of the debilitating disease. 
No pains and attention were spared for my 
comfort. It was indeed a home away from 
home. But it pulled me down terribly and 
took ambition and determination away almost 
as much as had the seasickness on the rolling 
Atlantic. 

Having recovered by Wednesday, July 3olit, 
I took passage on the steamer "Catharine 



292 An Endeavorer's Working 

Apcar" for Hong Kong, paying thirty-five 
rupees, with daily diet included. I was only a 
deck passenger and, as I had done before, had 
to cast about for the most comfortable place I 
could find. This experience is almost equal to 
the Klondike rush, about which I already knew 
something, the unrolling of one's blankets on 
the deck of a ship constituting a recognized 
claim. I found a place under one of the life- 
boats, secured a piece of canvas which I threw 
over the boat to make a sort of private com- 
partment, and completed a chain of good luck 
by finding a cot. No deck passenger could 
have been surrounded by greater luxuries. 
During a storm, however, misfortune overtook 
me, for as the ship tossed helplessly it gave 
such a lurch that my cot broke down and I 
found myself lying on the flooded deck. While 
I was crawling about, looking for another cot, 
I met the second officer, an American. He 
asked me what I was doing, and when I in- 
formed him that I needed another cot he invit- 
ed me to take one of the berths in his cabin 
and to make myself at home there during the 
rest of the voyage. Such little acts of kind- 
ness were the bright spots that helped to equal- 
ize the hard features of my working journey 
around the world. 

We reached Singapore August 12th, and had 
twenty-four hours ashore there. Singapore is 



journey Around the World 293 

a beautiful modern city on the equator. It 
exports more tin than any other port in the 
world, and bears many evidences of the pros- 
perity which makes its development and ad- 
vancement possible. When we left the dock 
our vessel had seven hundred Chinese passen- 
gers, all bound for Hong Kong. They were 
huddled together like sheep, and after they had 
become settled, most of them were smoking 
opium and gambling. The majority of them 
had been working in tin mines, and had plenty 
of money with which to gamble. Professional 
gamesters make it a business to travel between 
Singapore and Hong Kong, for the sole pur- 
pose of fleecing the passengers. 

On the second day out from Singapore one of 
the Chinese passengers died. His body was 
wrapped in the mat upon which he lay when 
death came. Some scraps of iron were tied to 
his feet, and at 8 o'clock in the morning the 
Hindoo sailors slid his body overboard. No 
one showed respect for the dead. Not even his 
wife looked at the lifeless body. The death 
caused no more grief among his fellow passen- 
gers than if the corpse had been that of a 
stray dog. The other Chinamen were too anx- 
ious to return to their gambling to have time 
for sentiment and tears. 



294 ^^ Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXX 

China and the Philippines 

ON Friday, August i6th, the sea was very 
rough and the wind blew fiercely from 
the north. The frightened Chinamen were 
washed from one side of the ship to the other. 
Gambling was stopped and the cards, chips, 
mats and rice dishes were swept overboard. 
The second officer and myself saved two Chi- 
nese children from drowning by rushing into 
water which was about three feet deep on the 
deck. For five hours the fierce waves lashed 
the ship in fury, and for two days we had con- 
tinued rough weather on the China Sea. Be- 
fore we reached Hong Kong there were three 
dead Chinamen on board. We entered the har- 
bor of that city on the morning of Monday, 
August 19th. The voyage had consumed nine- 
teen days. 

Hong Kong is a clean, finely situated city, 
with a modern air about it. At 5 o'clock that 
afternoon I boarded a river boat for Canton, 
passing a very delightful night on the Canton 
River. After landing at Canton, having dis- 
missed pretty sharply the greedy Chinese guide 
who wished to show me over the city, a young 
Englishman and myself decided that we could 



Journey Around the World 295 

see more by walking to the various places of 
interest than by sitting at ease in the chairs 
which were offered for our use on every hand. 
One guide, in that way, served us both, and 
the plan proved to be highly pleasant and satis- 
factory. We saw the processes of silk-weaving, 
stone-cutting, painting on rice paper, the man- 
ufacture of fans, pottery and China and ivory 
ware, all done under the most unfavorable condi- 
tions as to light and ventilation, and performed 
according to methods that are two thousand 
years old. After seeing the many interesting 
and ancient sights of the city, including the 
temples and the idols, I got on board the vessel 
for the purpose of returning to Hong Kong. 

At Hong Kong I learned that transportation 
to Manila was very high, and my money per- 
mitted me to travel only third-class. I took 
my small baggage and entered a steam launch 
with forty-six Chinamen. We were taken to 
the "Standfield," an old boat used by the 
American government for disinfecting third- 
class passengers. My poverty, and the kind of 
travel it necessitated, m.ade it necessary for me 
to undergo the same sort of examination to 
which the filthy Mongolians were subjected. 
There was nothing to do but grin and bear it, 
although the thought of such a process was far 
from pleasing. 

I went below with the Chinamen and each 



296 An Endeavorer's Working 

man was provided with a tub. A bath was the 
first thing on the cleansing program. I took 
off my clothes, and after removing from the 
pockets my note-book and every other article 
that might be damaged by the steam, which 
was 250 degrees hot, threw my garments upon 
a carrier, which took them, with the clothes 
of the Chinamen, into a huge oven. After I 
had taken the medicated bath I was looking 
toward the upper deck, and there saw the in- 
spector give to two Japanese who had not been 
disinfected, tickets which showed that they had 
been. My blood boiled. Here I was, subjected 
to this indignity, while one of my countrymen 
was permitting two foreigners to slip through 
without it. The disinfection as applied to the 
Chinese is all right. They need it. I did not 
need it, but simply because I was unwilling to 
pay the high rate of better passage, I had to 
submit. It is strange that every man with a 
little extra money which he is willing to part 
from is perfectly free from contagious diseases. 

My clothes were sadly wrinkled and stained 
when they came from the heater. I never 
looked so utterly bad, as to apparel, until I 
went through the sweat-shop over which the 
Stars and Stripes were flying. I got into a 
steam launch and went to the "Perla," which 
was to take us to the Philippines. 

The weather was fair and the sea was grand, 







Pa MS ffN^VA NiC^r ^^HX^{h^^ 











TneHs ^<^jt4/^pKiA 




QKUffA S/VfAfol?^ Ho^^l{ofi<i MahiI/^ 







A COLLECTION OF POLICE BUTTONS FROM THE UNIFORMS OF 

OFFICERS IN MANY CITIES. THE MONOGRAM IN THE 

CENTER IS JOHN ANDERSON IN ARABIC. 



Journey Around the World 297 

but it was extremely hot when we reached 
Manila Bay. My first mission in Manila was 
to find employment. This I did in an Amer- 
ican barber-shop, going to work at once after 
buying a white duck suit, which, in that city 
would be called "conventional," on account of 
the o-eneral use that is made of such g-arments. 
For my first week's work I received ^22.50 in 
American gold, the best wages I had received 
during all my journeyings. I found that there 
were three prices for everything. A native 
may pay $5 for an article, a Spaniard will pay 
^10, and an American $15. 

Manila was one of the most fruitful places 
for the study of new conditions and the possi- 
bilities of a country that I had visited. The 
biggest fight I saw while there was the strug- 
gle between Americans to see who could do the 
least work and get the best positions. Manila 
is the most expensive place to live in that can 
be found in all the East. The onl}^ cheap arti- 
cle I found was a postage stamp, it having been 
many months since I mailed a letter for two 
cents. It was while I was in Manila that I 
first heard the news of President McKinley's 
death, and the memorial services held in our 
new possessions on account of the taking off of 
this good man were impressive, and as sin- 
cere as they could have been in one of the 
states that had long owed allegiance to the flag. 



298 An Endeavorer's Working 



CHAPTER XXXI 

Return Trip to China — Experiences in 

Japan 

N my first visit to the Philippines I spent 
one month, at the end of which time I 
went on board the steamer "Esmeralda" for a 
retnrn trip to China and a short stay in Japan. 
I was a deck passenger again and occupied a 
tent. There were several Americans on board, 
and after I had recovered from a spell of sea- 
sickness caused by a very rough sea, I opened 
an American barber-shop on deck and did a 
good business shaving the "long" faces of the 
seasick passengers. On Monday, October 7th, 
after delightful hours spent with friends whom 
I had become acquainted with during m}^ pre- 
vious visit to Hong Kong, I went on board the 
steamer "Salazie," a French mail liner, after 
paying $12.50 for third class passage to -Nagas- 
aki, Japan. There were only eight passengers 
in the third class department — two French 
women, two Japanese men, two Russians, an 
Englishman and myself. We got along very 
well at the table except for the fact that the 
Russians took all the cheese and the "Japs" 
insisted upon cleaning out the olive dish. 
While my English friend and myself had plenty 



Journey Around the World 299 

of bread and vegetables, we were willing to let 
the warring foreigners fight for their favorite 
delicacies as long as they wanted to. 

October loth and nth were spent in Shang- 
hai, a city that is known in the far east as the 
model settlement. On the 13th we dropped 
anchor in the harbor at Nagasaki, a city sur- 
rounded by a group of green-clad islands, mak- 
ing a most attractive picture. The first im- 
pression of Japan was a good one, for there 
were evidences of cleanliness on every side. 
On the railroad trip from Nagasaki to Moji, for 
which I had purchased a third class ticket, I 
was the only white person in a car that con- 
tained about one hundred Japanese. The pas- 
senger coaches in Japan are modeled after the 
American coaches, but the seats are close to- 
gether and the cars are small and easily 
crowded. The Japanese are very friendly, and 
one of them., who appeared to be of the better 
class, asked me to partake of the lunch which 
he carried in a little pine box. He had boiled 
rice, pickles and vegetables, and he gave me 
two sticks with which to carry the food to my 
mouth. I must confess freely that the first 
mouthful was carried to my lap. Notwithstand- 
ing the difficulties, I succeeded in getting away 
with a liberal portion of the lunch, which was 
altogether toothsome. 

By the middle of the afternoon we were in 



300 An Endeavorer's Working 

the famous rice-belt of Japan, where the stout 
little men and women of the country were hard 
at work in the fields. 

In Moji I made arrangements at a hotel, after 
having been asked various prices at different 
houses, for a room at the rate of one yen, or 
fifty cents a day. When I reached the entrance 
to the hotel, I was asked to remove my shoes 
before stepping upon the matting. A Japanese 
girl approached me, made a little bow, squealed 
as though some one had pinched her, and then 
took my shoes and gave me a pair of sandals 
made of rice-straw. She then piloted me to 
my room, which contained rice-straw matting, 
a thill cushion to sit upon, and a charcoal-box. 
The girl brought some hot charcoal, made a 
"shakedown" on the floor and then sat down, 
with her feet under her, and watched me close- 
ly. I began to prepare for retiring, thinking 
she would leave the room. But no, she sat 
there and waited until I had crawled between 
the quilts. Then she took the lamp, made an- 
other little bow, let loose another squeal, and 
left me alone. 

The quilts in this first-class Japanese hotel 
were so short that I could not stretch out with- 
out having my feet unprotected, and the pillow, 
filled with seed, was so large that my neck and 
head were very uncomfortable. But such 
things all go with the discomforts which a per- 



Journey Around the World 301 

son undertaking such a task as I had must 
bear with patiently. 

At 7 o'clock the next morning the girl came 
to my room and began to slide the little doors 
back, and then the wall partitions which had 
formed the apartment in which I had spent the 
night. By the time she had finished pushing 
doors and walls this way and that, I found my- 
self lying out of doors, with only a roof over 
me. I could not help taking such a hint as 
that. It was time to get up. In a few 
moments, after I had dressed, the girl returned 
with my breakfast, made up of an egg omelet, 
rice and tea. She sat near me and when my 
awkwardness in the use of the chop sticks was 
manifest she began to feed me. Such accom- 
modations are not to be found in ordinary 
hotels. It was a charming diversion that might 
have turned the head of a fickle traveler. 



302 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXXII 

Japan's Inland Sea 

THAT morning I made preparations for a 
trip on the famous inland sea of Japan, 
and bought a ticket for Kobe on a little Japanese 
freight and native passenger steamer, I was 
the only man on board who could speak English. 
At noon a boy came around with a tray filled 
with small pieces of fish, and another bearing a 
dish of vegetables. I also had a wooden vessel 
filled with boiled rice, and was given a pair of 
chop-sticks with which to eat. The chief 
engineer laughed at my efforts to use the sticks 
and kindly taught me how to manipulate them, 
I practiced faithfully and was soon able to use 
them as skillfully as a native. 

I was a curiosity on that boat. Everybody 
was interested in me. The women thought my 
light hair was wonderful and they wanted to 
touch it and see, doubtless, whether or not it 
was hair. They also wanted to feel the gold 
filling in my teeth, that feature of my appear- 
ance exciting the greatest wonder. 

The thing I missed most was bread. There 
was not a piece of it on the "Asahigow- 
quinaru. ' ' The Japanese are not a bread-eating 



Journey Around the World 303 

people. Probably tliey will not be so long as 
the rice holds out. 

I was two days and two nights on the inland 
sea, between Moji and Kobe. I had paid the 
equivalent of #1.20 for my transportation and 
food and had received all of the courtesies and 
marks of kindness that could have been be- 
stowed. 

At Kobe I looked for employment again, but 
was unsuccessful, and then began a tour of 
Japan on foot, going to Suma, Macko and 
Akashi. A little "Jap," who was making a 
long journey in the same way I was, fell in with 
me, and we continued our wanderings together 
for a long time. One night we stopped at a 
cheap hotel, and when I awoke the next morn- 
ing I found that my companion had gone and 
taken my faithful umbrella with him. He was 
good enough to leave his tiny Japanese um- 
brella with me, while my other possessions 
were safe under my head, having been used as 
a pillow. After passing through numerous 
cities and villages, I finally reached Osaka, the 
second largest city of the Japanese empire. 
The streets are narrow and dark, and the city 
is said to have three hundred bridges. It 
seemed that I crossed them all not less than 
three times before I reached the general post- 
olfice, where I went in order to get the custom- 
ary cancellation stamp, without which my trip 



304 An Endeavorer's Working 

would have lost one of its most valuable fea- 
tures. Here I was in a great city with only- 
twenty sen, or ten cents, to pay for a night's 
lodging. The financial skies were again be- 
coming deeply clouded and I realized that 
something must be done. 

While inquiring for cheap lodgings in a nar- 
row street I became the center of interest. One 
young Japanese took an interest in me and vol- 
unteered to give assistance. He took me to 
the police station, where there was an ofhcer 
who could speak English. I explained my 
predicament to him, and he told me he could 
find a place where I could sleep for the ten 
cents I had appropriated for that purpose. In 
the place he took me to I was given a "shake- 
down" in true Japanese style. The next morn- 
ing the proprietor insisted upon my taking 
back the money I had given him for lodging, 
and his wife fixed a lunch for me to carry with 
me. Surely there is some of the milk of human 
kindness in every quarter of the globe. 

On the highway out of Osaka I met four jin- 
ricksha men who wanted me to ride with them. 
I explained my financial circumstances, and 
furthermore, made known the fact that I was a 
barber, suiting my actions to the words by dis- 
playing my barber tools. The result of this 
was that I received five sen, or two and a half 
cents, from each of three of them for running 




A JINRICKSHA MAN IN JAPAN. 



Journey Around the World 305 

the clippers over tlieir heads, the fourth one 
agreeing to pull me to the next village. These 
little fees for the barber work I had just done 
constituted one of the real windfalls of my ex- 
perience. 
20 



3o6 An Endeavorer's Working 

CHAPTER XXXIII 
The Financial Skies Brighter 

WHEN we reached tlie village, the jinricksha 
men began to tell the people all about 
their "hair-cuts" and to run their hands over 
their smooth heads and laugh. At Kioto I 
had another streak of good fortune, for in that 
city there was a European hotel in which a 
number of American guests were housed. The 
proprietor, a Japanese gentleman, said the 
Americans doubtless would be glad to have the 
services of an American barber, and said he 
would gladly give me board and room for a few 
days in order to have me in the house. I did a 
profitable business, ate in the guides' dining- 
room, was shown many favors by these guides 
and the 'ricksha men, and, altogether, found 
myself most favorably situated for seeing the 
sights of the old imperial capital. The last 
man I shaved during my stay in the Kioto 
hotel was an Italian prince, who remained in 
his bed while the operation was performed. 
While seeing Kioto I had made twenty-five 
yen, or $12.50, in working at my trade. 

After walking to Kusatsu I took a train there 
for Nagoya, the railroad fare being less than 
one cent a mile in that country. From Nagoya, 



Journey Around the World 307 

whicli is a modern city with straight, regular 
streets, I traveled along the eastern coast high- 
way, coming in sight of Mount Fugi on Sun- 
day morning. This mountain is the theme of 
poem and song in that country. That same 
morning I reached Yokohama. After spending 
two days in that city, I took the train for the 
capital of the empire, Tokio. 

From there I went to Nikko, the most famous 
place in all Japan. It is filled with magnifi- 
cent temples, places of historic interest and 
spots of rare beauty, all of which were seen as 
rapidly as possible. The Japanese say that one 
has not seen real beauty until he has seen 
Nikko. At the hotel there I did some barber 
work and spent delightful hours with the edu- 
cated natives and the tourists who were there. 
After a trip to Lake Chusenji I began the re- 
turn journey, and was soon in Yokohama. It 
was necessary for me to have employment be- 
fore sailing again, but I found the task of find- 
ing it in this city a very difficult one indeed. 
Meeting refusals at all sorts of places, I finally 
accepted the inevitable and shared the work 
the Japanese barbers were doing at the United 
States hospital. Two classes of persons are 
well cared for in Japan — tourists and sailors. 
As I was not able to pay for the accommoda- 
tions the tourists were able to buy, I found that 
I was in a class by myself. A young man who 



3o8 An Endeavorer's Working 

was iu charge of the United States navy coal- 
yard gave me employment helping him to fit 
up a new house, and I stayed at his place 
while waiting for a chance to secure passage 
out of the country. 



Journey Around the World 309 



CHAPTER XXXIV 
Homeward Bound 

T was a difficult task to secure a working 
passage on an outgoing skip. Tke answer 
was the same everywhere, to the effect that 
only Oriental labor was employed on the ves- 
sels. After several of the darkest days I ever 
knew, the long-looked-for opportunity came 
and I was taken as third cook on the United 
States transport Warren, bound for Manila. It 
was a happy moment when I walked aboard 
the Warren and was shown to the "glory hole," 
the place reserved as the sleeping quarters of 
the crew. The last row of little bunks was oc- 
cupied by the cooks, waiters and bakers, and I 
soon found my place. My first duty as a third 
cook was not along the line of cooking at all, 
but consisted in cleaning skylights and scrub- 
bing woodwork. 

The eating features of. this passage were good, 
for anything on the ship that I wished to call 
for, at mealtime, was mine. I was sure of liv- 
ing well during the voyage, and it is verily true 
that a stomach well-cared for goes a long dis- 
tance toward insuring a happy frame of mind 
and satisfaction with the world. After I had 
finished washing and scrubbing, I was put to 



3IO An Endeavorer's Working 

work applying a coat of white paint to parts of 
the ship in the vicinity of the cook's galley 
that needed it. Meanwhile the Warren was 
tied to the shore, having been delayed for re- 
pairs. The next day I was informed that my 
wages would be $40 a month until I reached 
San Francisco. It seemed good to hear of 
promised payment in the gold of my own 
country. 

The task of cleaning and painting went on 
for days. At length I was given work more in 
line with the modest title I bore, and these 
duties were far less laborious than the ones I 
had started in upon. 

On Sunday, December ist, the crew of the 
Warren rejoiced, for water began to flow into 
the dry dock and the ship soon floated. We 
moved out into the bay and I was homeward 
bound. One week later all hands were called 
into the saloon cabin and I received pay for 
nine days' work. Monday afternoon we were 
in sight of the Philippine Islands, and on Tues- 
day, December loth, the Warren dropped an- 
chor in Manila Bay. It was announced that 
we would sail for San Francisco on the 15th, 
by way of Nagasaki. While we were anchored 
the chief cook and the steward got into a dis- 
pute, and as a result the chief cook threw up 
his job, and the rest of us were moved up one 
notch. I became second cook, preparing the 



ITi ^ 




Journey Around the World 311 

meals for the firemen and sailors. Eleven hun- 
dred soldiers boarded the Warren for the trip to 
the United States, and the vessel therefore had 
a full complement of passengers. 

On the 15th we left Manila Bay and started 
for a cooler climate, the weather in the Philip- 
pines being unbearably hot, even^ in December. 
On the homeward trip the Warren seemed to 
be a floating gambling house. There were 
games of chance everywhere. Soldiers were 
squandering the money they had earned while 
fighting for the flag, and the members of the 
crew wasted that which they had worked so 
hard for. In the saloons and cabins the officers 
and others able to play for higher stakes 
were indulging in the same pastime. Money 
changed hands freely. Boys with funds at day- 
break retired without money with which to 
pay expenses after reaching San Francisco. I 
became convinced that the gambling habit is 
one of the worst the American man is a vic- 
tim of. 

On the fifth day out we reached Nagasaki. 
On the 2ist anchor was raised and the journey 
toward home was continued. General Funston 
was on the Warren at the time I was serving in 
the kitchen, but the nearest I came to meeting 
him was when he peeped through the skylights 
into the saloon galley where we were at work 
preparing the meals. 



312 An Endeavorer's Working 

Christmas was one of the busiest days in the 
galley, for there were extra dishes to serve. It 
was little like a holiday to me. There was 
nothing in my stocking that morning, for there 
had been a poker game in the "glory hole" all 
night, and Santa Clans refused to visit such a 
place. 

In the culinary line the boys in blue, those 
who do the fighting for their country, fared 
worst. The food given them was frequently 
bad. Many times I saw soldiers take their 
plates of stew, and then with curses, throw the 
stuff overboard and make their meal on hard- 
tack and coffee in preference to that which was 
served them as rations for that day. Soldiers 
many times offered me money, sometimes as 
high as a dollar, for the contents of my well 
filled plate, which they perhaps saw me eating 
as they passed the hatch back of the galley. 
The boys who made the long marches and car- 
ried heavy knapsacks and won battles for the 
American flag were treated like swine on the 
transport Warren, while the giddy officers 
feasted like kings. It is a condition that 
should bring the blush of shame to the ones in 
authority over such affairs. 

On January 9th, at 3 o'clock in the after- 
noon, my heart leaped for joy as the Warren 
entered the Golden Gate at San Francisco. 
The journey around the world had been accom- 



Journey Around the World 313 

plished. I had traveled 36,000 miles and had 
endured hardships and enjoyed many pleasures. 
I came home convinced that my country was 
the best on earth. I was more proud of the 
Stars and Stripes when I returned than when 
the trip began. I had heard the praises of 
America sung in every land, and had seen how 
the citizen of this country is respected and 
honored. These experiences have been weakly 
told, but rest assured, reader, that they are 
faithfully portrayed, and that the writer took 
up the avocations of a home life, after travel- 
ing in many strange lands, a better American 
citizen than ever, and firmly grounded in the 
belief that what this country has accomplished 
is due to a high degree of patriotism and to the 
Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ. The darkest 
countries I saw were the countries without the 
Gospel. With it in every clime, the world can 
be won for progress, for commercial advance- 
ment, for the uplifting of all mankind and for 
the proper glorification of Him whose words 
and works made America's proud position 
possible. 



JUN 19 1903 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



029 726 032 



